I believe in a speaker that primarily acts like a point source. Because of the microphone setup. maybe silly of me but anyway that is what I think.
My own speakers however do use a side firing sort of ambiance unit (15 inch JBL) along with my forward firing PHY-HP 8 inch FF drives. All open baffle.
So when I would have your amount of speaker I would probably go for 2 front with a tweeter in between. The rest I would use for ambient sound (to the sides and to the back firing). All used in an open baffle.
My own speakers however do use a side firing sort of ambiance unit (15 inch JBL) along with my forward firing PHY-HP 8 inch FF drives. All open baffle.
So when I would have your amount of speaker I would probably go for 2 front with a tweeter in between. The rest I would use for ambient sound (to the sides and to the back firing). All used in an open baffle.
My own speakers however do use a side firing sort of ambiance unit (15 inch JBL) along with my forward firing PHY-HP 8 inch FF drives. All open baffle.
Interesting. Please post some pics of those with 15" monster ambiance generators What signal you feed to them ?
.
Hi,
FWIW I don't like the idea of a cube stood on one of its corners much.
Basically because its hard to establish a nominal main driver axis,
however adding an adjustable angle to the mount is possible.
Still your going to get ripple due the regular cube dimensions.
rgds, sreten.
Still like my original idea, but then again, I would.
FWIW I don't like the idea of a cube stood on one of its corners much.
Basically because its hard to establish a nominal main driver axis,
however adding an adjustable angle to the mount is possible.
Still your going to get ripple due the regular cube dimensions.
rgds, sreten.
Still like my original idea, but then again, I would.
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Hi,
See how it turns out, seems very fugly to me.
rgds, sreten.
Going 2 sets of 3 series in parallel
or 3 sets of 2 series in parallel ?
2 sets of 3 in series...because each is 4 ohm, which results in comfortable 6 ohms...
2 sets of 3 in series...because each is 4 ohm, which results in comfortable 6 ohms...
Hi,
Well in that case it would be easier to add some EQ options.
L with a parallel variable R to one set of 3 might help a lot.
rgds, sreten.
Thanks sreten for suggestions, that is certainly a possibility. Other option would be to have switch and have one branch of three drivers in opposite polarity to the other, thus to go from full Omni to di-polar, where front three and back three drivers would work as push-pull...
I am not there yet
I am not there yet
Pics 15 inch ambiance
Here they are..
Here they are..
Interesting. Please post some pics of those with 15" monster ambiance generators What signal you feed to them ?
.
Attachments
Here they are..
There are two of these speakers in a conventional stereo triangle ?
Nevertheless they are out of the ordinary and thus very welcomed
.
Jev,
Very interesting design - don't see a 15 in woofer up high and sideways very often, or maybe ever. What is the XO freq for the 15 in OB woofer? I also see you have a rear firing woofer, is that in a sealed or ported config. More details of the philosophy of this speaker would be be interesting to all I think.
Nice work!
Very interesting design - don't see a 15 in woofer up high and sideways very often, or maybe ever. What is the XO freq for the 15 in OB woofer? I also see you have a rear firing woofer, is that in a sealed or ported config. More details of the philosophy of this speaker would be be interesting to all I think.
Nice work!
Thanks.
Well the story is that I saw a commercial speaker Nola Pegasus that had a rear firing open baffle mid-low woofer extra.
Before starting to design this speaker I had Lowther PM2a in a small BR enclosure. For the lows I had 2 active subwoofers. This sounded quite good in the mids and highs but was balanced towards the highs. In the region around 100hz I thought dynamics were missing. For instance on the guitars of the Red Hot Chili Peppers
So I needed:
• More balanced mid-highs.
• The subs stayed but would be better (I used quite old design JBL 2203a in BR). Also the amp would be integrated to save space.
• The mi-low region should be helped in the dynamic department.
• The real highs should be helped towards 20K.
• The speakers should have good (relatively) WAF so not to imposing in width.
And I started thinking:
• Subs about 80L BR tuned to a little over 20Hz. (Wavecor SW312TU01), Hypex 400 amps. Custom made sub filter in separate box.
• The mids would all be Alnico based (PHY-HP 8 inch silver coils, JBL 2220b). Visaton super tweeters second hand.
• The 15 inch woofer is just there for dynamics so I thought it would not matter much how it was placed. Also I wanted a not to wide box.
• Everything would be open baffle except he subs.
• Filter all 6db. The PHY-HP are unfiltered.
Then a lot of wood working (MDF combined with particle wood) and painting got me these.
Yes I have two and they are facing slight outside of my ears. Distance about 3.5 meters.
The speakers sound warm in the lows with very firm and if needed overpowering bass. The PHY-HP’s mids are kind of effortless. The stereo image is sometimes a bit to unreal. This depends on the source. The DAC sound much more stereo left-right front-behind. The LP sounds better I think in the sense that there is more unity in the image. DAC is more hifi.
Greetings, Jeroen
PS adason excuse me for intruding on your design in this thread.
Well the story is that I saw a commercial speaker Nola Pegasus that had a rear firing open baffle mid-low woofer extra.
Before starting to design this speaker I had Lowther PM2a in a small BR enclosure. For the lows I had 2 active subwoofers. This sounded quite good in the mids and highs but was balanced towards the highs. In the region around 100hz I thought dynamics were missing. For instance on the guitars of the Red Hot Chili Peppers
So I needed:
• More balanced mid-highs.
• The subs stayed but would be better (I used quite old design JBL 2203a in BR). Also the amp would be integrated to save space.
• The mi-low region should be helped in the dynamic department.
• The real highs should be helped towards 20K.
• The speakers should have good (relatively) WAF so not to imposing in width.
And I started thinking:
• Subs about 80L BR tuned to a little over 20Hz. (Wavecor SW312TU01), Hypex 400 amps. Custom made sub filter in separate box.
• The mids would all be Alnico based (PHY-HP 8 inch silver coils, JBL 2220b). Visaton super tweeters second hand.
• The 15 inch woofer is just there for dynamics so I thought it would not matter much how it was placed. Also I wanted a not to wide box.
• Everything would be open baffle except he subs.
• Filter all 6db. The PHY-HP are unfiltered.
Then a lot of wood working (MDF combined with particle wood) and painting got me these.
Yes I have two and they are facing slight outside of my ears. Distance about 3.5 meters.
The speakers sound warm in the lows with very firm and if needed overpowering bass. The PHY-HP’s mids are kind of effortless. The stereo image is sometimes a bit to unreal. This depends on the source. The DAC sound much more stereo left-right front-behind. The LP sounds better I think in the sense that there is more unity in the image. DAC is more hifi.
Greetings, Jeroen
PS adason excuse me for intruding on your design in this thread.
PS adason excuse me for intruding on your design in this thread.
no problem, not at all...
btw interesting observation in positioning speakers for stereo, I noticed jev that you mentioned speakers facing slight outside...well, I have the same positioning on all four systems, and every time I position speakers directly toward me, the listener, the soundstage collapses, closes in, and its not because fr response would change on axis or off axis, since I can eq in both placements to flat fr response
so in all my system speakers are facing little outside the proposed triangle
anybody care to explain why?
If you tape the sections together with the inside face down then flip them over, add glue to the joints and roll them up using the tape as the clamp, you end up with a nice finished joint with no fasteners. Use a minimum of 2 rows of tape. When I get home later I can post pics of the process. Fast, easy and solid.its going slowly and so far its looking pretty ugly, but
thanks Cal, I am way past that...I am gluing bottom now...well, its ugly so far and I took some pics, used duct tape, haha, but I will post pics once finished...its going to be sturdy little box, I can feel it, the sound? no idea, I guess that part will be most fun
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Thanks sreten for suggestions, that is certainly a possibility. Other option would be to have switch and have one branch of three drivers in opposite polarity to the other, thus to go from full Omni to di-polar, where front three and back three drivers would work as push-pull...
I am not there yet
Hi,
Not much to recommend about going push pull dipole
at all. In fact its totally pointless in any sensible respect.
A hexagon with 3" drivers IMO would a tall skinny
floorstander, drivers at ear level and some way
from the top, with an open bottom, a simple
straight TL that may or may not get some
bass out of the drivers, hard to say it will,
with no idea of the actual driver parameters.
rgds, sreten.
I am doing for real...I am thinking this first box is a tester and that you might build it nicer if they sound good?
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