Howdy,
I have a few ENX lamps and I want to wire one up in a projector..I have the mounts, but I don't have the transformer to power them. I'm looking for a cheap and easy substitute/
Any ideas on how to knock 115v down to 82v?...so I can run the lamps rated for 82v @ 360w.
Thanks,
Newpaltzwonder
I'm also looking for cdmt lamps and ballast, they are impossible to find a place to order from.
I have a few ENX lamps and I want to wire one up in a projector..I have the mounts, but I don't have the transformer to power them. I'm looking for a cheap and easy substitute/
Any ideas on how to knock 115v down to 82v?...so I can run the lamps rated for 82v @ 360w.
Thanks,
Newpaltzwonder
I'm also looking for cdmt lamps and ballast, they are impossible to find a place to order from.
I had an overhead projector that used those lamps. It didn't use a transformer though. Instead, it ran a transistor in series with the lamp to eat up the other volts and turn 'em into heat instead. I think I still have the transistor lying around here somewhere ( I disected that OHP long ago). If you email me a little reminder, I'll look for it and post the part number so that you and others can finally use 84v lamps on a 120v line voltage.
As for the lamps and ballasts, I've got ballasts, but I'm not sure what the lamp voltage is for the particular metal halide. Check out www.diylabs.org/projector/ if you're interested. I'll help you however I can.
As for the lamps and ballasts, I've got ballasts, but I'm not sure what the lamp voltage is for the particular metal halide. Check out www.diylabs.org/projector/ if you're interested. I'll help you however I can.
I think they are resistors
The ones you find in the dukane and infocus OHP are aluminum housed resisistors with a high wattage probably 50 or so.......
they are indeed used in a schematic to reduce some of the current however, the FXL's are still getting a bit more than 82 volts. That is why a) they blow fast unfortunately, b) they have an extreme white output those ohp's have an extra switch to bypass a circuit so that even more volts get in the lamp, resulting in an even higher output..I sugested the whole idea, last year it was, to develop a circuit for home made projectors based on the fxl 82 volts which are readily available at less than $7 a piece. but there was no one that reacted. Me personally, I think this whould be the way to go for a compact enclosure.
J-P
diylabs said:
The ones you find in the dukane and infocus OHP are aluminum housed resisistors with a high wattage probably 50 or so.......
they are indeed used in a schematic to reduce some of the current however, the FXL's are still getting a bit more than 82 volts. That is why a) they blow fast unfortunately, b) they have an extreme white output those ohp's have an extra switch to bypass a circuit so that even more volts get in the lamp, resulting in an even higher output..I sugested the whole idea, last year it was, to develop a circuit for home made projectors based on the fxl 82 volts which are readily available at less than $7 a piece. but there was no one that reacted. Me personally, I think this whould be the way to go for a compact enclosure.
J-P
I agree that the FXL's are physically a nice little package, but I think that if you are to get a good color out of them, than you will have to have the lamp blow often. What you would need, in my opinion, is a line conditioner (not the same as a surge protector) to eliminate spikes. I know that Monster makes a home theater surge supressor that conditions the line voltage, but I don't know if this idea would even give you much increase in lamp life. I'd hate for someone to buy a $200 line conditioner only to find that they got an extra 30 seconds of life from their lamp!
I do think that using a dimmer knob would greatly help. Some top of the line halogen projectors use a soft-on technique to dim the lamp into its max output instead of just turning it all the way on. The reason is that using a switch will give the lamp a very short jolt of electricity to the order of 10KV, which theoretically weakens the filiment. I suggest getting a cheap dimmer from Home Depot and wiring your FXL or any other halogen lamp directly to it. The only problem being that you'd need to take extra care not to turn it up to high because it would be really easy to give it too much juice. That wouldn't be dangerous at all, but would burn up your lamp like a single-use flashlamp ... sadly I've done that before with a brand new FXL-5 lamp and it was my last replacement (no store was open that late for a replacement, so I had to cut the movie short ... that sucked).
I do think that using a dimmer knob would greatly help. Some top of the line halogen projectors use a soft-on technique to dim the lamp into its max output instead of just turning it all the way on. The reason is that using a switch will give the lamp a very short jolt of electricity to the order of 10KV, which theoretically weakens the filiment. I suggest getting a cheap dimmer from Home Depot and wiring your FXL or any other halogen lamp directly to it. The only problem being that you'd need to take extra care not to turn it up to high because it would be really easy to give it too much juice. That wouldn't be dangerous at all, but would burn up your lamp like a single-use flashlamp ... sadly I've done that before with a brand new FXL-5 lamp and it was my last replacement (no store was open that late for a replacement, so I had to cut the movie short ... that sucked).
Dropping 115V to 82V is very simple. Just insert a diode of appropriate voltage and current in series with the lamp. Here's proof that this will work:
82V @ 360W = 4.39A
Therefore, lamp resistance is 18.68 Ohms
115V directly connected across this lamp would draw
(115)^2/18.68 = 708W
Since the diode cuts off all negative going halves of the sine wave, the power to the lamp with the diode connected in series is
708/2 = 354W
Very close to 360W. The AC line is usually slightly higher than 115V, so the lamp will run at full power.
This setup avoids the losses of a resistor or transformer, and is extremely cheap to set up. You'll need a diode rated at least 200V and 5A.
David
82V @ 360W = 4.39A
Therefore, lamp resistance is 18.68 Ohms
115V directly connected across this lamp would draw
(115)^2/18.68 = 708W
Since the diode cuts off all negative going halves of the sine wave, the power to the lamp with the diode connected in series is
708/2 = 354W
Very close to 360W. The AC line is usually slightly higher than 115V, so the lamp will run at full power.
This setup avoids the losses of a resistor or transformer, and is extremely cheap to set up. You'll need a diode rated at least 200V and 5A.
David
About Dimmers:
Almost all of the dimmers I could find, including both the older knob style and the newer digital pressure sensative kind, are good for 500w-600w. Trev was probably thinking of the older style dimmer switches that used a variable resistor to convert energy into heat, but any dimmer made in the past decade will be fine up to 500w. Check the back of the switch for a power rating if you're not sure.
About turning 115v into 82v:
Tesla is right that it is actually a diode and not a transistor or resistor. I just found the part in my garage. The part number is GP104 and has a diode schematic icon under that number. Definitely mount this against a piece of metal to help remove heat - that's how this baby works to reduce the voltage.
Almost all of the dimmers I could find, including both the older knob style and the newer digital pressure sensative kind, are good for 500w-600w. Trev was probably thinking of the older style dimmer switches that used a variable resistor to convert energy into heat, but any dimmer made in the past decade will be fine up to 500w. Check the back of the switch for a power rating if you're not sure.
About turning 115v into 82v:
Tesla is right that it is actually a diode and not a transistor or resistor. I just found the part in my garage. The part number is GP104 and has a diode schematic icon under that number. Definitely mount this against a piece of metal to help remove heat - that's how this baby works to reduce the voltage.
don't you guys think
that we solved a 2 year period of try and error findings by thinking about the 110 to 82 volt ....
I went to get a dimmer from a floodlight (rated at 1000 watts) cost me $8.00 and the lamp is as brighter as the result out of the ohp Dukane 410 !!!!!!!!!!!! ???????????...........
considering the size, i just need to have some cooling, and I have plenty of fans to work with and the enclosre can be reduced by, let's say....... 600 pct!
this is like the egg of Columbus!
.
J-P
that we solved a 2 year period of try and error findings by thinking about the 110 to 82 volt ....
I went to get a dimmer from a floodlight (rated at 1000 watts) cost me $8.00 and the lamp is as brighter as the result out of the ohp Dukane 410 !!!!!!!!!!!! ???????????...........
considering the size, i just need to have some cooling, and I have plenty of fans to work with and the enclosre can be reduced by, let's say....... 600 pct!
this is like the egg of Columbus!
.
J-P
i have posted
pics before from the result with 2 LOA's in one enclosure with simple aluminum foil glued against photoboard that was shaped as a cone...
I was trying to explain (2 years ago) that the results where truly very good.
no one took my route when some of the guys failed...
but that was then, this is now, the fxl bulb will give even more light than the LOA and as I can see this result does not need any real reflector , maybe a crude rear shield but that's all.
The front lens will be the most crucial thing to think about but as usual I want to come up with ideas that have not been milked out!!!!!
J-P
here is oneof the pics I saved from 2 years ago , IKEA enclosure and 2 LOA's
pics before from the result with 2 LOA's in one enclosure with simple aluminum foil glued against photoboard that was shaped as a cone...
I was trying to explain (2 years ago) that the results where truly very good.
no one took my route when some of the guys failed...
but that was then, this is now, the fxl bulb will give even more light than the LOA and as I can see this result does not need any real reflector , maybe a crude rear shield but that's all.
The front lens will be the most crucial thing to think about but as usual I want to come up with ideas that have not been milked out!!!!!
J-P
here is oneof the pics I saved from 2 years ago , IKEA enclosure and 2 LOA's
Attachments
and maybe a less clear
picture , the result o a first power up , the light coming out of the enclosure was so overpowering that, when I took a picture, the room looked dark and the brightness coming out of the projector lens was overpowering the other lights in the room
J-P
picture , the result o a first power up , the light coming out of the enclosure was so overpowering that, when I took a picture, the room looked dark and the brightness coming out of the projector lens was overpowering the other lights in the room
J-P
Attachments
115V to 82V for ENX or FXL
Hopefully, this info is not too stale to be useful.
My Apollo Concept overhead projector uses either en ENX (360W) or FXL (410W) 82V bulb. The power supply circuitry includes only a P1000J silicon rectifier (600PVI, 10A) in series with the lamp and line and a P6KE400CA transient voltage supressor (400V, 600W) in parallel with the bulb (of course they're switchs, cooling fan, and a thermal breaker).
The earlier post of how the rectifier drops the voltage was very helpful. I think the TVS helps to control the initial surge. These two devices should be fairly readily available at under $1 each.
Hopefully, this info is not too stale to be useful.
My Apollo Concept overhead projector uses either en ENX (360W) or FXL (410W) 82V bulb. The power supply circuitry includes only a P1000J silicon rectifier (600PVI, 10A) in series with the lamp and line and a P6KE400CA transient voltage supressor (400V, 600W) in parallel with the bulb (of course they're switchs, cooling fan, and a thermal breaker).
The earlier post of how the rectifier drops the voltage was very helpful. I think the TVS helps to control the initial surge. These two devices should be fairly readily available at under $1 each.
everything you need
It's all in the previous post! If you can't figure it out from reading that, then you have no business playing with 120 VAC circuits. Here's what I would suggest:
Buy:
1 silicon rectifier (600V, 10A)
1 surge supressor (400V, 600W)
1 lamp socket to fit your bulb
1 SPST switch (120 VAC 10A)
1 fan (120 VAC)
Then take the projector, parts, and a printout of the post before yours to an electronics technician or electrical appliance repair shop to have them wire it for you.
No mistakes, no house fire, no electrocution, no law suit...
It's all in the previous post! If you can't figure it out from reading that, then you have no business playing with 120 VAC circuits. Here's what I would suggest:
Buy:
1 silicon rectifier (600V, 10A)
1 surge supressor (400V, 600W)
1 lamp socket to fit your bulb
1 SPST switch (120 VAC 10A)
1 fan (120 VAC)
Then take the projector, parts, and a printout of the post before yours to an electronics technician or electrical appliance repair shop to have them wire it for you.
No mistakes, no house fire, no electrocution, no law suit...
Used the tried and true!
I decided to go with the dimmer circuit. It was the quickest and cheapest method possible. I used a multimeter to set the corrected voltage on the dial and placed a screw there with a screw on the knob. This makes is almost impossible to spike the voltage to high.
No I didnt electrocute myself!
I decided to go with the dimmer circuit. It was the quickest and cheapest method possible. I used a multimeter to set the corrected voltage on the dial and placed a screw there with a screw on the knob. This makes is almost impossible to spike the voltage to high.
No I didnt electrocute myself!
uvodee,
Thanks for responding. is this the dimmer you bought and do you have a wiring schematic for the fxl mod?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10063148
Victor
Thanks for responding. is this the dimmer you bought and do you have a wiring schematic for the fxl mod?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10063148
Victor
how exactly are you powering the FXL bulb? are you you using mains power and stepping down the voltage, or are you using the original powering system from an actual OHP?
any idea how big the step down transformer and other parts that power an OHP bulb are, I want to have an idea of whether or not I'll need to externalize the powering circuits if I'm gonna be replacing my retail projectors bulb with an FXL.
thanks
any idea how big the step down transformer and other parts that power an OHP bulb are, I want to have an idea of whether or not I'll need to externalize the powering circuits if I'm gonna be replacing my retail projectors bulb with an FXL.
thanks
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