hahahahahaha ive never heard of a deathmatch before but it sounds like a great time.
i think everyone has gotten off track and i think it is due to my lack of explanation of what i am trying to accomplish. ill try one more time and i am happy to hear if this cant be done because everything i have been reading is leading me in that direction anyway.
take away the fact that i am using the equipment that i am using. and lets pretend i am using a stock 6" door speaker rated for 35 watt and i plan to drive this single speaker with a 1000wrms amp. i have built a box perfectly so the speaker will not bottom out and not shudder or rattle. also it will not reach xmax because my speaker box is built so perfect and the amp is hardly even working. (this is all just for dramatic sake). my point is to take out these variables and take away the answer of "well just listen to it". of course the speaker will fail if it goes full bore and probably in less then a second BUT it will also play wonderfully at low volume. so to plot info like this at one end would be it working and the other end would the speaker would be failing. im after the absolute max which represents the exact point where the graph would start to turn.
i am not trying to acheive a decibel level i am not trying to acheive clarity or excessive power consumption. all i want to find out is where is the "red line" for this speaker? a quantifiable point of where i can run this 35 watt speaker all day at this level and no problems but if i were to add more electricity then it would not be able to dissipate the heat and fail.
there was mention of the impedence rising along with excessive heat. is this measurable? can it be done in real time? is heat the only thing that is causing a speaker in this situation to fail? assuming the amp is not running out of power and is not clipping
i would like to find a way to be able to say i can run this speaker like this.....
x level----all day long
y level----1 hour
z level----1 min
(not exactly like this but you get the point)
it seems that the volume knob is subjective and is dependent on the music. x level might be higher or lower based on the different kind of music being produced.
right now i am running off of smell, when i start to cook off the polyester from the coil i turn it down because this seems to be the only advanced warning i have found so far.
or jamming my finger in the coil when i suspect its hot.
im not asking these questions to be difficult or a smart ***. this is a real problem and it would be nice to get a real solution to this problem. im new at this and im having fun learning from this community and im super happy for the advice that has been given so far. but the solutions of "get a smaller amp" or "get a bigger speaker" aren't solving this problem.
i think everyone has gotten off track and i think it is due to my lack of explanation of what i am trying to accomplish. ill try one more time and i am happy to hear if this cant be done because everything i have been reading is leading me in that direction anyway.
take away the fact that i am using the equipment that i am using. and lets pretend i am using a stock 6" door speaker rated for 35 watt and i plan to drive this single speaker with a 1000wrms amp. i have built a box perfectly so the speaker will not bottom out and not shudder or rattle. also it will not reach xmax because my speaker box is built so perfect and the amp is hardly even working. (this is all just for dramatic sake). my point is to take out these variables and take away the answer of "well just listen to it". of course the speaker will fail if it goes full bore and probably in less then a second BUT it will also play wonderfully at low volume. so to plot info like this at one end would be it working and the other end would the speaker would be failing. im after the absolute max which represents the exact point where the graph would start to turn.
i am not trying to acheive a decibel level i am not trying to acheive clarity or excessive power consumption. all i want to find out is where is the "red line" for this speaker? a quantifiable point of where i can run this 35 watt speaker all day at this level and no problems but if i were to add more electricity then it would not be able to dissipate the heat and fail.
there was mention of the impedence rising along with excessive heat. is this measurable? can it be done in real time? is heat the only thing that is causing a speaker in this situation to fail? assuming the amp is not running out of power and is not clipping
i would like to find a way to be able to say i can run this speaker like this.....
x level----all day long
y level----1 hour
z level----1 min
(not exactly like this but you get the point)
it seems that the volume knob is subjective and is dependent on the music. x level might be higher or lower based on the different kind of music being produced.
right now i am running off of smell, when i start to cook off the polyester from the coil i turn it down because this seems to be the only advanced warning i have found so far.
or jamming my finger in the coil when i suspect its hot.
im not asking these questions to be difficult or a smart ***. this is a real problem and it would be nice to get a real solution to this problem. im new at this and im having fun learning from this community and im super happy for the advice that has been given so far. but the solutions of "get a smaller amp" or "get a bigger speaker" aren't solving this problem.
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The real answer is to turn it down
No they don't typically address the issue you are interested in solving, however they do give a real answer in terms of stopping you from blowing drivers up (besides turn it down).
I don't really agree with the 'get a smaller amp' part as that implies you'll be clipping it and it's the clipping that will 'save' the speaker. If I was trying to target a specific SPL the addition of another loudspeaker would be the method I would use, . You however are not.
I think everyone understands the problem. The solution to it however is a bit more complicated and somewhat difficult to achieve.
Back to your example however. You're asking how you can safely drive a loudspeaker that can only handle 35 watts, with an amplifier that can provide 1000. The loudspeaker in its application will never reach it's mechanical limitations, so we're only concerned with melting, or not melting, the voice coil of the loudspeaker.
The only way I can think of, to really achieve your goal, is to have some sort of way of measuring the voice coil temperature in real time. If the coil gets too hot the loudspeaker is disconnected from the amplifier, or the input to the amplifier is muted. Of course something like this would stop the bass, but it would also save your coil.
If you had an accurate way of measuring the temperature it wouldn't be too hard to rig up a relay that would mute the amplifiers input.
However as you are not actually after achieving a certain SPL, the easiest thing for you to do, is simply to turn it down.
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