Michael Chua was pretty high on Dayton PC83-8 so I built these. Not wanting to spend a lot, I used green siding board for everything but the front baffle. Front baffle is a scrap of birch ply I had laying around. Used a little Duratex to dress them up. They sound great, great bass, not harsh on the highs! Glad I took the plunge. Thanks to Planet 10 and Scott Lindgren for a great design
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TubaV
I had exactly that driver (PC83-8) on an open baffle (1m tall 20cm wide, driver placed at 85cm from the floor solid pine timber 22mm thick) about 60cm from the back wall. No carpet in front of the speakers and the listening sweet spot. Wooden floor. Not very excited about the performance of the driver except from the sound stage presentation. Suddenly two days ago I replaced the Dayton driver with the Peerless TG9FD-10-08. It was apocalypses even with 0 hours (yes zero) break-in period. I'll report after a month (I have enough patience
)
Of course not abyss deep bass but I don't demand that from a 36cm 2 driver
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Peerless/TG9FD10-08
Elias
I had exactly that driver (PC83-8) on an open baffle (1m tall 20cm wide, driver placed at 85cm from the floor solid pine timber 22mm thick) about 60cm from the back wall. No carpet in front of the speakers and the listening sweet spot. Wooden floor. Not very excited about the performance of the driver except from the sound stage presentation. Suddenly two days ago I replaced the Dayton driver with the Peerless TG9FD-10-08. It was apocalypses even with 0 hours (yes zero) break-in period. I'll report after a month (I have enough patience
)Of course not abyss deep bass but I don't demand that from a 36cm 2 driver
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Peerless/TG9FD10-08
Elias
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Hi planet10/Dave, would you have a dxf file of the FHL with Alpair 5.3 cutout that I can give to a local CNC shop for a quote? Or any FHL dxf file and I can modify the driver cutout. Just don't trust myself 100% to be able to draw those curved sides. No prob with DIYaudio donation, just let me know what I need to do. (or if you have a flat pack laying around, let me know...)
This is alll i have, a cut plan with blank supraBaffle.
And the drawing of the MA 5.x https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/markaudio/Alpair5.pdf
dave
And the drawing of the MA 5.x https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/markaudio/Alpair5.pdf
dave
That's perfect, thanks very much. I've been away from the hobby for a long time, and about a year ago put my Lotus speakers and small valve amps back into service. But the bug has bitten and I have a "need" for a 2nd set of smaller speakers...it's a very good need
One good thing about such a long break is seeing all these new wonderful designs, thanks so much to you, Scott and Chris.
One good thing about such a long break is seeing all these new wonderful designs, thanks so much to you, Scott and Chris.
At the time I drew the FHL but I did not manage to manufacture it, I have adapted the cutting hole for Alpair-5, here is the DXF with the exploded view for two units on a board (2500 x 1250 mm) of 12 mm thickness.
Roberto
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I’m not sure what it is about the FHL, but it’s just so endearing!
I’m a 50 something year old who’s loved music for half a century but who is just now tumbling down the rabbit hole of DIY Audio. Something drew me to the Frugel Horn Light as a first project (well, I slapped together a 12” passive sealed sub but I’m not counting it). I used some cheap, old 4” drivers from a defunct JBL shelf stereo and some 1/2” birch sand ply. Very cool! Great midrange sound.
I’m playing with “stuffing” and varying the throat width to try to get the best sounding lows. Also have 2 more types of drivers on the way to experiment with. Much fun!
Thanks to everyone involved in the design and refinement. I’m greatly enjoying my initial foray (and first post) into all this.
Many questions and much lurking to follow.
Simon
I’m a 50 something year old who’s loved music for half a century but who is just now tumbling down the rabbit hole of DIY Audio. Something drew me to the Frugel Horn Light as a first project (well, I slapped together a 12” passive sealed sub but I’m not counting it). I used some cheap, old 4” drivers from a defunct JBL shelf stereo and some 1/2” birch sand ply. Very cool! Great midrange sound.
I’m playing with “stuffing” and varying the throat width to try to get the best sounding lows. Also have 2 more types of drivers on the way to experiment with. Much fun!
Thanks to everyone involved in the design and refinement. I’m greatly enjoying my initial foray (and first post) into all this.
Many questions and much lurking to follow.
Simon
Can't decide on building a Frugel Horn or a light, what are the recommendations for room size for each model and space from wall behind. What is the bass response for both sizes ball park as driver and damping play a big part in this. Very nice looking, not too big and I'll have say good at low volumes too.
They can be fairly close tothe wall behind. Lite makes bass that is really good at producing the first harmonic of the fundemental bass notes and leaves one with the impression the fundementalis there, quite impressive and i really love tosee th elook on people’s faces when those notes come thru. FH3 reproduces those fundamentals, FHXL with authority.
And, as a generalization, the smaller drivers in the smaller variations do better mid/top.
I am, at some point, going to grab a miniDSP (or similar) and try the FH-Lite with the stealtHWoofer/deflectors i have made for the FH3. Should do the dual role of improving the finesse of the bottom of the Lite and provide the fundementals with some authority.
dave
And, as a generalization, the smaller drivers in the smaller variations do better mid/top.
I am, at some point, going to grab a miniDSP (or similar) and try the FH-Lite with the stealtHWoofer/deflectors i have made for the FH3. Should do the dual role of improving the finesse of the bottom of the Lite and provide the fundementals with some authority.
dave