P3A Comparison table ( long .... )

Well after hours, right channel gone.
Bass driver is gone, one coil is gone. other drivers and xover parts are ok.

So don't use this driver&output combo.
 

Attachments

  • 16501905768178543282319480488779.jpg
    16501905768178543282319480488779.jpg
    234 KB · Views: 102
Answer to my own question;

Tried 100uf 50v Silmic II at bootstrap. Sound was dry, uninvolved, rolled of top end.
Tried to bypass 100uf 50v silmic II with 1uf wima mks4. Sound becomes unbearable.

Tried 100uf 63v old vishay. Better than silmic II with slighly rolled of top end.

Finally tried 100uf 63v panasonic eb-a. Everything changed dramatically.
Top end crystal clear, bass is gone deeper, much more detailed than other two.

Btw; I replaced drivers with bd139-140 and outputs to A1492&C3856, bias at 75mA.
Heatsink is lukewarm, after hours of listening and pushing the amp, seems like everything is ok for now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I am sort of tempted to build another P3A. I originally built one in about 2004 using the ESP board and remember it sounding tather aggressive and ragged, but having read most of this thread maybe I got something wrong?

One probem is that none of the pcb design's are deemed adequate except for the one described in post #982 which seems to be secret (and "IT CANNOT BE DONE"??). Another probem is that VAS and driver transistors are now difficult to get and could well be fakes.
I have the following transistors available:
2SC3280/2SA1301
2SC3298/2SA1306
2SC3423

Is it worth having another go (with these transistors)?
 
It was something that I appreciate, thanks for sharing information anyway.
I already build a P3A amplifier.
Here is the pictures
20220210_121748.jpg
20220418_205231.jpg
20220418_205222.jpg


I just love to build new project and then move on to new project, it's fun doing this audio amplifier stuff, I do it only for fun.
No commercial activity.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user