Yes, and if they move their heads a few millimetres they might change their minds
An earlier post.
...depending on where your head is...
On the polyfil, I have both, not very expensive as opposed to the 1/2 inch felt used on the top of the cabinet, haven’t found 1/2 thick blue jean?, probably the new year will be getting another flat pack from Bob Berner, he’s doing a real nice job with the CNC. My FH 3’s went together in 3 days, excellent fit!!!
Hey Kevin,
I got felt if you want some, I include it with the kits but you said not to worry about giving you any for the FHMk3 kit. Let me know if you want any for the 3s. I will include the felt for the XLs with the kit.
Bob
Yep, it certainly depends where your head's at
Made me think about this a bit. As the head moves around the combing averages out, but the brain has to do more work. Contary to the idea that as much information as possible should be provided so as to work the brain less and allow for deeper calm.
dave
Almost certainly, and if any of the research undertaken for the defunct super cockpit programme (to give one example purely from my own research interest POV), this will also vary with circumstance at time -health, sleep, even potentially time of day. Be that as it may, there appears to be no real disagreement on the questionable audibility of combing, which will itself vary in detail / extent depending on the specifics of implementation.
My take on the drivers for the FHXL’s is that the 10p (paper) provides the best bass. Having the 10.3 and and 11ms also and no one knows for sure how much the metals need to break in. I’m disappointed with the upper frequencies of all 3, and maybe enabling helps that. ????
The A10.3 needs 500-1000 hrs breakin in my experience, A11ms does not seem to need near as much, A10p needs much less.
In theory the A10.3 should have a slight edge in bass, the vintage top end of teh A10p might well give the illusion of more bass, the horn dominates but the specific driver does play a role.
dave
In theory the A10.3 should have a slight edge in bass, the vintage top end of teh A10p might well give the illusion of more bass, the horn dominates but the specific driver does play a role.
dave
Hello all! Been a while. I hope you've all been well!
I have an old pair of A10.2 sitting in a box and I have the itch to finally build a pair of FHXL. Frugal-horn.com says I need to donate $10 in order to get the plans. So donating is the first step but what do I do after that?
I have an old pair of A10.2 sitting in a box and I have the itch to finally build a pair of FHXL. Frugal-horn.com says I need to donate $10 in order to get the plans. So donating is the first step but what do I do after that?
Beg, on your knees. Shamelessly grovel.
Alternatively, just send Dave and email letting him know & the plans will be winging your way faster than a boomslang's bowels after the forcible insertion of a steam-powered mutton vindaloo suppository.
HA! Thanks Scott.
In the meantime I have been over to your site and am once again tempted by the Silbury.
Do you know if anyone around here has built those?
Also, are the curved backs on your Megalith series essential to the acoustic design, or merely cosmetic? (forget this question, I just read the teaser PDF http://wodendesign.com/planset/Megalith-teaser.pdf )
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Bob Berner is doing flat paks now.
dave
Sorry but how can I find his info? A link would be helpful.
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I just discovered an interesting side-effect of using metal coned drivers - once deformed, they seem to stay like that.
I think this is the result of the dog crashing into the front of the speaker. Just ordered some replacement drivers, I was happy to see they are still available. I suppose a paper cone driver would not have survived very well, either...
I think this is the result of the dog crashing into the front of the speaker. Just ordered some replacement drivers, I was happy to see they are still available. I suppose a paper cone driver would not have survived very well, either...
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