I have been given a pair of KEF Q80s. One 200mm mid-base with a tweeter mounted in the middle of the mid-base, and a 200mm passive radiator. Rather than deal with 25 year old tweeters and surrounds, I am looking to replace the drivers. The KEFs have a volume of 1.2 cubic feet or 34 liters.
I would like a full range 8", and keep the passive radiator. I can add bracing so the driver and passive radiator are separated. I'd rather have a tight bass over a slightly lower sloppy bass.
Both the Fostex FE206en and Dayton PS220-8 fall within budget, and can fit into the cabinets, with few little manipulations.
In the planning stage, any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Joseph
I would like a full range 8", and keep the passive radiator. I can add bracing so the driver and passive radiator are separated. I'd rather have a tight bass over a slightly lower sloppy bass.
Both the Fostex FE206en and Dayton PS220-8 fall within budget, and can fit into the cabinets, with few little manipulations.
In the planning stage, any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Joseph
Dave,
Thanks, building a horn is beyond this project. I saw an online thread on the Fostex FE206en in a regular ported enclosure; Fostex FE206En in Double Bass-Reflex Speaker Enclosure
I'm also have been going over Curt's Singularities; Speaker Design Works
I'm leaning toward the Dayton PS220-8, mainly because of a much higher Xmax.
Joseph
Thanks, building a horn is beyond this project. I saw an online thread on the Fostex FE206en in a regular ported enclosure; Fostex FE206En in Double Bass-Reflex Speaker Enclosure
I'm also have been going over Curt's Singularities; Speaker Design Works
I'm leaning toward the Dayton PS220-8, mainly because of a much higher Xmax.
Joseph
… Fostex FE206en in a regular ported enclosure…
Best classed a crue joke.
Curt’s box is an ML-TL and althou it has been done, the FE206 is not all that happy there either. At least not without an amplifier with high output impedance.
the Dayton PS220-8, mainly because of a much higher Xmax.
I wouldn’t base any disicion on that number. There is no standard for specifying it, so you cannot directly compare. And the Fostex has an Xlimit far in excess of the rated Xmax.
dave
The double bass reflex enclosure referred to was in fact designed for the (defunct & very different) FE207E, and while acceptable with that unit, sucks like a dehydrated wombat in a cask brewery with the FE206En. The author of that particular project used 30ga magnet wire for internal wiring, which will introduce some extra series R into the circuit, and is also running a high output impedance amplifier, and ended up using a small shelving filter also. Better to have too much motor power than too little as you can always do something about it, but it's still a bit of a mismatch. The Dayton (once corrected) is a better natural match to a relatively simple box.
As Dave said, be careful assuming too much with Xmax. There is no single definition for what it even is, multiple different methods of generating a number for it (on many occasions you won't know or be able to find out which was used) and none really tell you a huge amount; it's a 1st order guideline only.
As Dave said, be careful assuming too much with Xmax. There is no single definition for what it even is, multiple different methods of generating a number for it (on many occasions you won't know or be able to find out which was used) and none really tell you a huge amount; it's a 1st order guideline only.
So the double bass reflex enclosure "sucks like a dehydrated wombat in a cask brewery with the FE206En."
The Dayton PS220-8 it is.
Any opinion on the need for a contour network? Curt has one for his Singularities.
I have a 25 watt per channel solid state integrated amp. Will that be enough, especially with the contour network?
Thanks,
Joseph
The Dayton PS220-8 it is.
Any opinion on the need for a contour network? Curt has one for his Singularities.
I have a 25 watt per channel solid state integrated amp. Will that be enough, especially with the contour network?
Thanks,
Joseph
Assuming your baffle width is the same, I'd use Curt's as a basis. The PS220 has inherent HF rise though, so you may find you want to make adjustments.
Re whether that's enough amplifier power, it rather depends on what you're expecting to achieve. Should be, in many cases.
Re whether that's enough amplifier power, it rather depends on what you're expecting to achieve. Should be, in many cases.
Dave,
Yes, that is them. They are 855mm x 246mm (width) x 274, with an internal volume of 34 liters. The Dayton PS220-8 will fit, barely.
Curt's contour network: Speaker Design Works
I am planning on using Curt's values, unless someone has a bettering suggestion for my cabinet.
Thanks, Joseph
Yes, that is them. They are 855mm x 246mm (width) x 274, with an internal volume of 34 liters. The Dayton PS220-8 will fit, barely.
Curt's contour network: Speaker Design Works
I am planning on using Curt's values, unless someone has a bettering suggestion for my cabinet.
Thanks, Joseph
The SEAS FA22 is probably better than either of these, but it wants a larger sealed enclosure. In the target box you will have to heavily damp it and may need to make it aperiodic (drill a number of small holes in the back as far away from the driver as possible and then put denser damping over the holes on the inside.
dave
dave
I ended up with the Dayton 220-8 and the Dayton 8" passive radiator. Internal bracing was added, giving the driver it's own chamber, leading into the rest of the cabinet. I kept 20% of the original stuffing, now limited to the driver chamber.
For the baffle step compensation, in parallel, 1.8mH, 10 ohm and 15 ohm.
Initial impressions, my first single driver, wow. Imaging wide and spacious. I'm using a not so great SONY receiver for the temporary setup. The bass is present, seems light. The opening organ pedal on the Reiner RCA living stereo "Also Sprach Zarathustra" from 1954, is there. Hot Rocks, Rubber Soul, Revolver, Monk''s Music, Kind of Blue, all sound incredible.
So now for break in and a better power supply. And then to reassess if I need larger values for the BSC.
How long should I expect for the break in?
Thanks, Joseph
For the baffle step compensation, in parallel, 1.8mH, 10 ohm and 15 ohm.
Initial impressions, my first single driver, wow. Imaging wide and spacious. I'm using a not so great SONY receiver for the temporary setup. The bass is present, seems light. The opening organ pedal on the Reiner RCA living stereo "Also Sprach Zarathustra" from 1954, is there. Hot Rocks, Rubber Soul, Revolver, Monk''s Music, Kind of Blue, all sound incredible.
So now for break in and a better power supply. And then to reassess if I need larger values for the BSC.
How long should I expect for the break in?
Thanks, Joseph
The bracing is solid from side to side. I cut the boards slightly less then half the width, attached internally with glue and screws coming from outside the cabinet. I then placed a small strip of wood over the middle seam. My attempt to make a mini horn. Photo attached.
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