Here are the photos of the Braces I have so far, forgot to upload them before.
Horizontal braces shown as being 18mm thick as well.
Can't really find anyone selling Bitumen pads locally in my area, only the bitumen paint. I have a few auto shops in my area (AutoBarn and SuperCheap Auto), that sell products for car audio.
Could I use something from them instead of the bitumen pads?
I don't really want to have to experiment to much with the cabinet once its done.
The way I'm building it, it would be very hard to open back up again. Using Dado Joints for most of it, as them seem strong and simple to do.
The damping material (open cell foam, or closed cell foam, etc) would be installed on to the panels before they are stuck together, making it very hard to replace later.
The stuffing shouldn't be to hard to replace if needed though, as I can probably do that through the woofer cutout. Although the woofer cutout is only 160mm in diameter, which may making it a bit difficult to get inside access through it as well.
Horizontal braces shown as being 18mm thick as well.
Can't really find anyone selling Bitumen pads locally in my area, only the bitumen paint. I have a few auto shops in my area (AutoBarn and SuperCheap Auto), that sell products for car audio.
Could I use something from them instead of the bitumen pads?
I don't really want to have to experiment to much with the cabinet once its done.
The way I'm building it, it would be very hard to open back up again. Using Dado Joints for most of it, as them seem strong and simple to do.
The damping material (open cell foam, or closed cell foam, etc) would be installed on to the panels before they are stuck together, making it very hard to replace later.
The stuffing shouldn't be to hard to replace if needed though, as I can probably do that through the woofer cutout. Although the woofer cutout is only 160mm in diameter, which may making it a bit difficult to get inside access through it as well.
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Oops, $140 for a sheet of the 5mm.
I just called Leto and ordered a sample. They said:
-their resellers should all have similar pricing (+ freight)
-the 5mm is brittle, will not follow a curve, and is (only) meant to go onto a substrate
-the thinner plies are flexible enough to roll into a tube
As i’ve said before, i think those are oriented the wrong direction.
Forget the Bituman.
I don’t have much use for foam as a damping material.
dave
I'll hopefully send in my CAD files for a quote sometime today.
I will probably ask them for a quote, using my own supplied 18mm birch Ply, as well as a qoute for that Leto Bamboo ply for all the panels.
I will also probably get them to see how much it would cost to have just the front baffle made out of 25mm bamboo ply and the other sides using my own supplied birch ply.
Andy Suggested earlier (post 76) of replacing the 3 vertical braces I had before with 2 horizontal ones, just above and just below the midwoofer.
I have used 3 horizontal braces instead, If the upper most brace doesn't do anything I guess I could remove it.
With Regards to the damping then, should I just use the Jaycar stuff and nothing else then?.
This thread is getting a bit cluttered, sorry I make someone repeat themselves.
I will probably ask them for a quote, using my own supplied 18mm birch Ply, as well as a qoute for that Leto Bamboo ply for all the panels.
I will also probably get them to see how much it would cost to have just the front baffle made out of 25mm bamboo ply and the other sides using my own supplied birch ply.
Andy Suggested earlier (post 76) of replacing the 3 vertical braces I had before with 2 horizontal ones, just above and just below the midwoofer.
I have used 3 horizontal braces instead, If the upper most brace doesn't do anything I guess I could remove it.
With Regards to the damping then, should I just use the Jaycar stuff and nothing else then?.
This thread is getting a bit cluttered, sorry I make someone repeat themselves.
Gasp. No.
If you're keen on bamboo, I recommend:
a) about $70 (for just the bamboo part):
Get a bench or table top from Ikea - this countertop would be enough to make the front panels:
Tolken countertop 620*490*18mm
It looks like narrow grain, natural finish. It looks like good to me.
b) about $500 (all up):
Buy a full 19mm sheet and get it cut in Melbourne, then sent to you as a relatively small parcel.
c) about $200 (for just the bamboo part):
Buy a 5mm sheet and get it cut in Melbourne, then sent to you as a relatively small parcel. Laminate that to locally sourced ply.
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I'll see about the bamboo stuff. I still like the look of the Birch Plywood, especially if it has been nicely stained quite a lot. I think I might just stick with that for simplicity.
If there are no further glaring issues with the design I posted in post 121, I'll look into getting a quote for CNC'ing them.
Cabinet is 18mm Birch Ply all the way around, including the baffle. Could always laminate 2 18mm baffles together If needed, but 18mm all around is the easier route.
Having to now convert the autodesk inventor .ipt files for all the individual cabinet parts in to a DXF file format needed to get them CNC'ed.
If there are no further glaring issues with the design I posted in post 121, I'll look into getting a quote for CNC'ing them.
Cabinet is 18mm Birch Ply all the way around, including the baffle. Could always laminate 2 18mm baffles together If needed, but 18mm all around is the easier route.
Having to now convert the autodesk inventor .ipt files for all the individual cabinet parts in to a DXF file format needed to get them CNC'ed.
There were no glaring issues with the original box. It was fine. The last version is a little better.
A minor but sensible thing to add to your plan: a cutout or recess for your binding posts.
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Only the old ones: thin baffle creating a lack of stiffness around the midwoofer mounting after material is cut way and hence more vibration entering the cabinet, the weakness of the wall damping to dissipate the vibration that has entered the cabinet, the high frequency of the most energetic modes being easier to perceive, the internal damping unlikely to adequately address one or more of adequately damping the driven internal modes, keeping midrange noise out of the port and not interfering with the action of the port. Having said that it does not look like a bad cabinet just not one that matches the extremely high price of the drivers. Dropping the bamboo and sticking with good quality birch plywood looks wise to me as the cheaper and more conservative option.
STL files are not an option?
Hmm OK then, I guess I'll go with a 36mm thick front baffle then, It would take to much extra effort to laminate 2 18mm pieces together.
How would this go as for damping stuff
Heavy Duty Sound Barrier Damping Material - Improved | Jaycar Electronics
I would use it in conjuction with this 10mm closed cell foam, or an open cell foam if I can source it. (would rather stick with what I have)
Shop Online | Foamland
I can convert the inventor part files to STL, but the place that does CNC cutting only uses either.
DXF files, EPF files, or a 1;1 scale PDF file.
Have already got the binding posts and binding terminals needed.
Dayton Audio SBPP-BK Binding Post Plate Black Anodized
Dayton Audio BPP-NI Premium Binding Post Pair Nickel
Regarding the rear terminal plate and binding posts, Should the plate be flush mounted (recessed)?
Should the Holes for the binding posts be drilled using a CNC machine, or is that something that is more easily added afterwards?
If anyone wants to have a look at my inventor part files or whatever, or even to look over the DXF files when I convert then I'll be happy to upload them.
How would this go as for damping stuff
Heavy Duty Sound Barrier Damping Material - Improved | Jaycar Electronics
I would use it in conjuction with this 10mm closed cell foam, or an open cell foam if I can source it. (would rather stick with what I have)
Shop Online | Foamland
I can convert the inventor part files to STL, but the place that does CNC cutting only uses either.
DXF files, EPF files, or a 1;1 scale PDF file.
Have already got the binding posts and binding terminals needed.
Dayton Audio SBPP-BK Binding Post Plate Black Anodized
Dayton Audio BPP-NI Premium Binding Post Pair Nickel
Regarding the rear terminal plate and binding posts, Should the plate be flush mounted (recessed)?
Should the Holes for the binding posts be drilled using a CNC machine, or is that something that is more easily added afterwards?
If anyone wants to have a look at my inventor part files or whatever, or even to look over the DXF files when I convert then I'll be happy to upload them.
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Not so much that I think, just a general aversion to more metal mass in the contact path than "essential" - the extreme opposites of which would be WBT & clones thereof, and the Eichmann pods. I've both, and can't honestly say my ears can't detect any appreciable difference - but the wallet certainly does.
John,
You want as little metal as possible. Plastic nuts (even the cheesy looking ones) are better.
dave
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