I have in my possession a pair of speakerLab 7 (with upgrade I think) 2-HT-350(EV) horns. 2-HD-350D. 12" & 10" woofers. All top quality parts and they are crammed in 1 box. I'm sure they
thought out the crossovers & resonance factors but I'll just come
out & say it. I got them for free but bottom water damage could
not save them. Instead of 2-boxes, could I somehow put the 2-tweeters in 1 box, 2-woofers in the other. Being hooked with
wire from crossover OR have I lost it. Go on, I can take it. The
woofers just need a sealed box for sure(I have a few realistic Nova 8 speakers hopefully I could use. 2-woofers in one, 2-compression tweeters in the other.......................?????
thought out the crossovers & resonance factors but I'll just come
out & say it. I got them for free but bottom water damage could
not save them. Instead of 2-boxes, could I somehow put the 2-tweeters in 1 box, 2-woofers in the other. Being hooked with
wire from crossover OR have I lost it. Go on, I can take it. The
woofers just need a sealed box for sure(I have a few realistic Nova 8 speakers hopefully I could use. 2-woofers in one, 2-compression tweeters in the other.......................?????
Could you expand a little on the water damage and the rest of your explanation, it is difficult to understand what you are trying to say? Do you have one box with all the drive units in and you want to divide them into two boxes.
Tweeters do not necessarily have to go in a box.
If you put an ohm meter across the drive unit terminals, what reading do you get?
Tweeters do not necessarily have to go in a box.
If you put an ohm meter across the drive unit terminals, what reading do you get?
OK. The water damage is on both the bottoms of the speakers
1 speaker is worse than the other. The bottoms are like
cottage cheese. 1 guy tried to fix it but the bondo he put on
was coming off by the time he brought them over. I wanted
Oak but too costly. MDF is very heavy & you cant stain it
The best you could hope 4 on MDF wood is spray can or
(& I'm not doing it) iron your wood on. 6 years on this hobby
& I never had a horn system(powered anyway). What I did
to the boxes was rubberize them to get a good seal to see
if a horn system was worth it. I found out with a sh*tload of
glue, rubber paint, rescue 911 sealer & wrapping it with
plastic bags that it was well worth the effort just to hear
the difference. As for 4 separate boxes I was thinking the
woofers in a sealed box wouldn't hurt. I got OK readings
on all components. Having a hell of a time getting the cross
over out of them. I also didn't want to remove the woofer
every time I wanted to change settings on the crossovers
Hopes this answers some of your questions.
I'm always open for suggestions. Thanx Roger J
Yup, the cabinets looked wasted. You could always ebay for broken speakers, rip out the drivers and keep the cabs.
Or use filler, then cover with some iron-on wood veneer. This is real wood with glue on the back, when ironed the glue melts and the veneer sticks, it is thick stuff and covers most bumps and bruises.
A friend of mine had a bad cabinet, she covered it with a decorative cloth, then put a few ornaments on top, a small plant pot, a few books, a ferarri-type horse, it just disappeared into the furnishings of her home.
Or use filler, then cover with some iron-on wood veneer. This is real wood with glue on the back, when ironed the glue melts and the veneer sticks, it is thick stuff and covers most bumps and bruises.
A friend of mine had a bad cabinet, she covered it with a decorative cloth, then put a few ornaments on top, a small plant pot, a few books, a ferarri-type horse, it just disappeared into the furnishings of her home.
The Speakerlab 7 featured the "Nestorovic Woofer System", a patented alignment that uses two active woofers of different characteristics and a special crossover network. This was licensed from Mile Nestorovic, and only Speakerlab and Nestorovic Labs used this system. This may make the restored speakers more of a collector's item.
It is important to salvage the original crossovers and keep the same internal volume for the new boxes.
It is important to salvage the original crossovers and keep the same internal volume for the new boxes.
Absolutely! Modern tech/components might could fine tune them a little better, but overall, short of an entirely new speaker design, keeping them stock is best overall performance wise and if they have any collectability, then recommend rebuilding using MDF or whatever is closest to the original if there's any resale considerations.
GM
GM
It was an interesting concept, but since at least one woofer does not appear original, I don't know that this is worth messing with. An awful lot of work for a non-original result...
Last edited:
Not really, in my haste posted based on the write-up, responses and a mental image of the SL7......... oh well, without the right woofers it becomes just another DIY project.
Don't remember, mostly just remember the horns/layout.
Build a MDF & no void plywood box, mount a wide range driver/[mid] bass woofer in each [no cutout], seal them, power them up to hear how resonant each is over a fairly wide BW. The MDF plays louder, lower, so requires much more stiffening, damping than the plywood to shift it above the [mid]bass woofer's BW.
GM
I've no ideaIs that crazy vertical horn original? What's that all about?
High aspect ratio horns are like any other slot or array, i.e. to get wide dispersion it must be vertically oriented whereas the HF horn is ~ a radial with more of a rectangular polar response.
GM
The larger LF driver was deemed an "active radiator". The midrange horn was better replaced with a strong cone mid like the Audax PR 170, or even better two of them in an mtm with the ev tweeter.
I think you have equal parts good (tweeter horns, xover) and cheapo crap (LF drivers). The boxes are trash.
I think you have equal parts good (tweeter horns, xover) and cheapo crap (LF drivers). The boxes are trash.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.