Actually I meant Nichi FGs, still trying unsuccessfully to cull the cart down... Nichi KA most compact, FG next most, KZ not compact but top of line. Had ~330 - 2200 uF of KZ and FG in my cart + assorted silmic up to 470 lol.... would you think a small ~47u bypass of silmic make any difference?
The single paper punch is amazingly effective. I have had 100% success ratio with it and it's pretty fast. I ream the pot hole with hand reamer after main punched hole. LED hole is still drilled. But while process is not too bad.
Hi, here is my version of the pocket amp with a mix of silmic 2 and Nichicon KA. It works very well on the first time, listening with a Sennheiser HD590 it sounds very good 
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With matched Fet's tensions are very closed with 60ma at 16V in both channels. Do you think I have to get rid of this 1uf 63v Wima on the back of the board keeping just the silmic II 100uf?
I want to make the second board working with 18V for a desktop amp. Thanks for this very cool amp xrk971.
.With matched Fet's tensions are very closed with 60ma at 16V in both channels. Do you think I have to get rid of this 1uf 63v Wima on the back of the board keeping just the silmic II 100uf?
I want to make the second board working with 18V for a desktop amp. Thanks for this very cool amp xrk971.
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Hi, here is my version of the pocket amp with a mix of silmic 2 and Nichicon KA. It works very well on the first time, listening with a Sennheiser HD590 it sounds very good
With matched Fet's tensions are very closed with 60ma at 16V in both channels. Do you think I have to get rid of this 1uf 63v Wima on the back of the board keeping just the silmic II 100uf?
I want to make the second board working with 18V for a desktop amp. Thanks for this very cool amp xrk971.
hey aren't the KA on the power supply, which means that it's not in the audio path? and you have what looks like OSCON + Silmic on the output?
Yes, KA are on the power supply, not the best use for them I think
. I should try something else like 10000uf 25v for rail cap you think?Output is Oscon 390uf 20v and Silmic 100uf 16v // with wima 1uf.
maybe it's not the best use of the KA hahahah im sure the 10,000uF on supply can't hurt
This amp has 10,000uF 25v rail caps.
Hi, here is my version of the pocket amp with a mix of silmic 2 and Nichicon KA. It works very well on the first time, listening with a Sennheiser HD590 it sounds very good
With matched Fet's tensions are very closed with 60ma at 16V in both channels. Do you think I have to get rid of this 1uf 63v Wima on the back of the board keeping just the silmic II 100uf?
I want to make the second board working with 18V for a desktop amp. Thanks for this very cool amp xrk971.
Very nice work Jacorius! Glad it worked out the first time. I found that the 100uF Silmic doesn't need a 1uF film bypass. It's easy enough to remove it and listen.
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For the moment I find a 18V SMPS coming from a Cisco switch. It works very well with the small regulated PSU. My headphones are dead quiet even with max volume.
Check out this 4-way ABCD switch box. You could really go to town doing cap rolling comparo's with this.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-I...witch-Switcher-Digital-Multi/32650289096.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-I...witch-Switcher-Digital-Multi/32650289096.html
1.36uF PPS caps that are small enough to fit in this amp!
Here is how I plan to fit polyphenyline sulfide input caps in this amp. I bought 4x WIMA SMD-PPS .68uF caps and stacked them two high, running solder between the caps and soldering on leads. I then shrink tubed them for neatness and to prevent shorting between the caps, since they will sit right next to each other, touching. They just barely fit between the input jack and the pot housing. I had to sand the edge of the jack a little to make a bit more room.
How do they sound? I don't have a way to try them yet. I refuse to desolder the WIMA MKS from my existing build (the amp already sounds great and I hate desoldering!) so I'm going to audition these caps in my second board, which I haven't started on yet. I'll eventually do a listening comparison with both MKS and my stacked SMD-PPS caps in the new build before choosing which one to solder in.
I calculate that 1.36uF will put the low corner frequency at 2.5Hz.
Here is how I plan to fit polyphenyline sulfide input caps in this amp. I bought 4x WIMA SMD-PPS .68uF caps and stacked them two high, running solder between the caps and soldering on leads. I then shrink tubed them for neatness and to prevent shorting between the caps, since they will sit right next to each other, touching. They just barely fit between the input jack and the pot housing. I had to sand the edge of the jack a little to make a bit more room.
How do they sound? I don't have a way to try them yet. I refuse to desolder the WIMA MKS from my existing build (the amp already sounds great and I hate desoldering!) so I'm going to audition these caps in my second board, which I haven't started on yet. I'll eventually do a listening comparison with both MKS and my stacked SMD-PPS caps in the new build before choosing which one to solder in.
I calculate that 1.36uF will put the low corner frequency at 2.5Hz.
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Slick packaging there StellarElephant! I have a high end ultralow noise PSU that I bought and it has these black caps that are about same size and appearance - I wonder if they are PPS? They are on the diode bridge snubbers.
I recently installed 0.47uF MKP 100v caps from Vishay as bypasses on my 100uF Silmics to see if it would improve the top end any. Can't tell difference - so probably not needed.
I recently installed 0.47uF MKP 100v caps from Vishay as bypasses on my 100uF Silmics to see if it would improve the top end any. Can't tell difference - so probably not needed.
