Hi Tibi,
On many of your pictures of the SP-F101N I look at the rubbers you use to mount the mecanism and they fitt perfectly. (see atteachement) I have not been able to find them. Where did you get them? If possible please give me the partsnumber.
Regards,
Robert
On many of your pictures of the SP-F101N I look at the rubbers you use to mount the mecanism and they fitt perfectly. (see atteachement) I have not been able to find them. Where did you get them? If possible please give me the partsnumber.
Regards,
Robert
Attachments
I'm having problems with my black shiga. I think the main board is the problem (?). My sanyo cd mechanism will not start up even after changing ribbon FFC cables, using contact cleaner and checking the motor wire harness. I've even substituted 2 different sanyo mechanisms and no response. The display board works, the power supply board measures OK. How can I check if there is power going to the mechanism? Thanks
tom
tom
Hi Tibi
Having trouble getting small volume order of 8pf (or 8.2pf) MLCC in 1206 size
Can you suggest what else might work?
Thanks
Clayton
Any another 8pF cap that may be soldered there will work. If you have a good multimeter, twist two CuEm wires along 5cm, connect to multimeter and than cut till you get desired value.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi,
On many of your pictures of the SP-F101N I look at the rubbers you use to mount the mecanism and they fitt perfectly. (see atteachement) I have not been able to find them. Where did you get them? If possible please give me the partsnumber.
Regards,
Robert
FIX-GR-30 FIX&FASTEN - Man?on | TME - Componente electronice
Best regards,
Tibi
I'm having problems with my black shiga. I think the main board is the problem (?). My sanyo cd mechanism will not start up even after changing ribbon FFC cables, using contact cleaner and checking the motor wire harness. I've even substituted 2 different sanyo mechanisms and no response. The display board works, the power supply board measures OK. How can I check if there is power going to the mechanism? Thanks
tom
If is a new mechanism you need to remove solder protection bulb.
Regards,
Tibi
If is a new mechanism you need to remove solder protection bulb.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi, I'm afraid no go even with the removal of the solder protection bulb. I will try another mechanism, failing that I will check the continuity of the ribbon cable and the motor cable.
Regards
tom
Tibi, I'm afraid no go even with the removal of the solder protection bulb. I will try another mechanism, failing that I will check the continuity of the ribbon cable and the motor cable.
Regards
tom
Some high resolution pictures may help me identify the issue.
How do you inserted ribbon cable ?
After toc reset, does optical unit move and focus ?
Does the disc spin ?
Have you looked with a phone camera to see if laser is operational ?
Brgds,
Tibi
The optical unit does not move at all on startup and pressing the CD door button to start toc does not do anything. The disc doesn't spin. I'll try to use my mobile phone to see if laser is working. I have a feeling it's the 6 wire motor cable is faulty as changing ribbon cable does not solve the problem. I may make another 6 wire motor cable and try. I have been connecting and disconnecting it many many times. Will report back on the progress. Thanks once again
Regards
tom
Regards
tom
Some good news. I've managed to get the unit working but using a spare mechanism. I found out that the CD door 3 wire harness to J3 connector is directional. The ribbon cable to mechanism and 6 wire motor cable is not directional. However, my CD door button does not read the toc after inserting a new CD. I need to turn the whole player off and restart. Secondly, the original mechanism (with your laser mods) would just go the start of the sledge and wouldn't stop with the plastic gears just grinding away. Any suggestions?
Regards
tom
Regards
tom
Hi Tom,
Please remove solder protection bulb on moded CD mechanism. Unit was extensively tested, I do not see any other reason why this should not work.
Please check if toc reset cable is properly inserted.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi thanks for getting back so quickly. I will recheck the toc cable. The wire connection is 123 to 321 not 123 to 123? The modded CD mechanism was working originally and I believe the solder protection bulb was already removed but I'll check.
Regards
tom
Good day
Trying to get back on track after my trafo disaster a couple of weeks ago.
I set about trying to test the Shiga board with different clock. Have fitted new Tentlabs clock, L8 and C59 (R47 was already fitted). So think the Neutron Star has collapsed into a back hole.
Now get 00 on the display (before only backlight no characters). Platter spins and mechanism tracks in and out on start up trying to read TOC. However, the laser lens does not seems to pop in and out to focus like it used to and ultimately doesn't read TOC.
Have tried 3 different laser units and new ribbon cable but no difference. When I put my phone camera over the lens I don't see anything (not sure if that is all you have to do to check the laser?) Where should I check that current getting to laser?
As I have written everything else appears like it was back in the days before I had care.
Thanks
Clayton
Trying to get back on track after my trafo disaster a couple of weeks ago.
I set about trying to test the Shiga board with different clock. Have fitted new Tentlabs clock, L8 and C59 (R47 was already fitted). So think the Neutron Star has collapsed into a back hole.
Now get 00 on the display (before only backlight no characters). Platter spins and mechanism tracks in and out on start up trying to read TOC. However, the laser lens does not seems to pop in and out to focus like it used to and ultimately doesn't read TOC.
Have tried 3 different laser units and new ribbon cable but no difference. When I put my phone camera over the lens I don't see anything (not sure if that is all you have to do to check the laser?) Where should I check that current getting to laser?
As I have written everything else appears like it was back in the days before I had care.
Thanks
Clayton
Last edited:
Tibi thanks for getting back so quickly. I will recheck the toc cable. The wire connection is 123 to 321 not 123 to 123? The modded CD mechanism was working originally and I believe the solder protection bulb was already removed but I'll check.
Regards
tom
Finally solved the problems! The modded CD mechanism was not working as the connections were loose and needed resoldering at the terminal end. The toc cable was also faulty and needed resoldering. This is a great player but it is not designed to be dismantled and reassembled too many times as the connectors are fragile.
Regards
tom
Good day
Trying to get back on track after my trafo disaster a couple of weeks ago.
I set about trying to test the Shiga board with different clock. Have fitted new Tentlabs clock, L8 and C59 (R47 was already fitted). So think the Neutron Star has collapsed into a back hole.
Now get 00 on the display (before only backlight no characters). Platter spins and mechanism tracks in and out on start up trying to read TOC. However, the laser lens does not seems to pop in and out to focus like it used to and ultimately doesn't read TOC.
Have tried 3 different laser units and new ribbon cable but no difference. When I put my phone camera over the lens I don't see anything (not sure if that is all you have to do to check the laser?) Where should I check that current getting to laser?
As I have written everything else appears like it was back in the days before I had care.
Thanks
Clayton
If solder protection bulb was removed, than next step is to check if you get any signal in base of Q1. Use a scope or a fast multimeter. A voltage swing between 3.5V to 5V should be observed, otherwise your LA9242 chip may be faulty.
Regards,
Tibi
Attachments
Finally solved the problems! The modded CD mechanism was not working as the connections were loose and needed resoldering at the terminal end. The toc cable was also faulty and needed resoldering. This is a great player but it is not designed to be dismantled and reassembled too many times as the connectors are fragile.
Regards
tom
Great to hear that !
Thank you !
Regards,
Tibi
If solder protection bulb was removed, than next step is to check if you get any signal in base of Q1. Use a scope or a fast multimeter. A voltage swing between 3.5V to 5V should be observed, otherwise your LA9242 chip may be faulty.
Regards,
Tibi
Well on pressing TOC The voltage drops to 3.95 then at rest it is up to 4.39
Is this enough voltage swing?
Not sure if my mm is up to the job but those are my readings
Thanks
Well on pressing TOC The voltage drops to 3.95 then at rest it is up to 4.39
Is this enough voltage swing?
Not sure if my mm is up to the job but those are my readings
Thanks
This voltage swing should be enough to activate laser, also indicate that LA9242 is operating OK.
Replace ribbon cable.
Regards,
Tibi
This voltage swing should be enough to activate laser, also indicate that LA9242 is operating OK.
Replace ribbon cable.
Regards,
Tibi
Brand new cable has no effect. Tried earlier to view laser but not sure how one does this with phone?
Brand new cable has no effect. Tried earlier to view laser but not sure how one does this with phone?
Put your phone camera exactly over laser lens and push toc button. You should see a white light on phone camera. Do not look with naked eye.
Regards,
Tibi
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