The GRS Driver looks nice for OB. Another Option ist the Goldwood GW-1538/PA 15" PA / Musical Instrument Speaker.
I´m now working with 6,5" Fullrange on top but for future i will go for 8". There are more chassis available.
I´m now working with 6,5" Fullrange on top but for future i will go for 8". There are more chassis available.
Indeed,but maybe you can push the "hemp" a little bit to 1,5 khz.... Also check the waveguide,but in the end you need to experiment live,with all together.
BMS as the B&C are pro drivers and can be pushed to the extremes but you are use them to home listening and I doubt it you will push so hard on them....
1khz will be "at the edge" but I think should be fine (careful at the waveguide).
I will go to BMS because,in my opinion, it have a nice...balanced clean sound comparing with B&C (I use it in the past and it was too much "fluid metal" for my ears)....
TAD 4001 will be also very good but expensive and have delicate diaphragm.... in other setup at 800-900hz...and still don't reach 19khz....
BMS as the B&C are pro drivers and can be pushed to the extremes but you are use them to home listening and I doubt it you will push so hard on them....
1khz will be "at the edge" but I think should be fine (careful at the waveguide).
I will go to BMS because,in my opinion, it have a nice...balanced clean sound comparing with B&C (I use it in the past and it was too much "fluid metal" for my ears)....
TAD 4001 will be also very good but expensive and have delicate diaphragm.... in other setup at 800-900hz...and still don't reach 19khz....
@Godzilla
looking at those CD impedance graph, i find that i has impedance peak around 1.8kHz and 700kHz.how do you deal with it? do you use any notch filter? I also just started using horn tweeter fostex fd600+h550, lucky me that it's impedance peak around 470Hz which is much lower that my cutoff around 1.5kHz. however without notch filter, too much midrange caused sibilance and annoying peak.
looking at those CD impedance graph, i find that i has impedance peak around 1.8kHz and 700kHz.how do you deal with it? do you use any notch filter? I also just started using horn tweeter fostex fd600+h550, lucky me that it's impedance peak around 470Hz which is much lower that my cutoff around 1.5kHz. however without notch filter, too much midrange caused sibilance and annoying peak.
Feastrex in the midrange, nanoDigi I raised the slope filter until 36dB in Butterword. Now the next step is tune up the room with the microphone.
Weekend play
Maybe looked at too many Sonab designs this morning.
That's a RSS265HF-4 sub doing lower midbass duties, paired with a 505 mini panel electrostatic.
Upfiring is a different, but pleasant sound.
These are reinforced with 2 of the same sub drivers in a U Frame.
Sorry, since the latest "updates", I can't rotate the picture to vertical, just one side or the other.
Maybe looked at too many Sonab designs this morning.
That's a RSS265HF-4 sub doing lower midbass duties, paired with a 505 mini panel electrostatic.
Upfiring is a different, but pleasant sound.
These are reinforced with 2 of the same sub drivers in a U Frame.
Sorry, since the latest "updates", I can't rotate the picture to vertical, just one side or the other.
Attachments
Since the mini panels tap out at around 450Hz I would use something more detailed than subwoofer drivers for midbass.
I've tried Alpair 12P, 12PW, Dynavox 6.5", Peerless 6.5", M&K/Peerless 5.25", Celestion 15", and GRS 10" poly and paper with these.
Out of boxes, these sound the best, need no equalizing, or L-padding to match.
I've listened on test tones, they're fine off axis to about 500 hertz.
Most likely I'm hearing them that high because of ceiling reflections.
They also make for a perfect blend with my sub, which doesn't happen with any of the others I've tried.
Not running the upfiring woofer in a normal filter; the mini panels are first order filtered at 525 hertz,with a Jantzen Superior Z Cap, and a 20 gauge 1mH coil on the woofer, so the added resistance filters a little higher than the calculator suggestion.
The extra overlap helps things out.
Within its range, I've never experienced the lack of detail people ascribe to various drivers.
To me, with dynamic drivers, their reliable range will be @ an octave up, and an octave and a half below, their published specs.
Since this driver is rated to 1000 hertz, I probably am missing a little, but the only thing I'm missing audibly, is plasticy or papery sound from the other drivers I've tried, and ultimately tired of.
In all, it turned out a keeper, after starting out as a lark. I didn't expect it to to work at all!
Very nice and very interesting!!!Had some more fun today, and making a coax. Digital Xover, 200 hz and 3 khz.
Well, not nice.
But interesting, yes.
I am a newbie in DIY, and I want to eksperiment with more home made coax.
Need some better tweeters, and I want AE Dipole 15" to play with. Have to grow some money then.
The bass is good, and dont need more work. 12×12" GPA 414 in slot loaded open baffle.
I did mot build them. Some other smart guy in the same city I live in.
