That is what I was expecting.
If you look at this completed unit, sold on ebay, which appears to be the same version as mine, you can see from the front panel that this must have changed:AK4495SEQ AK4495 DAC decoder AK4118 PCM 384KHZ + XMOS XU208 USB support DSD NEW | eBay
I would wire the alps pot onto some test leads so you can use that as the volume control to your amplifier and take the sure board out of the system for now. This will show you if you are getting clipping somewhere in the chain.
That sure board lists no maximum input voltage but shows 1.7V as typical and 1.3V as maximum output. I would imagine that the DAC is putting out 2V or there abouts at full volume and it is possible that this is clipping the sure volume board.
The sure board to me seems the most likely cause of the issue, I have also changed my opamps to LME49710 but that has nothing to do with the 5534 not working properly.
The pictures of the display look quite different to the early models and there doesn't seem to be a volume level display, only way to know will be to pair it with an apple remote.
This is the taobao link to the same DAC
https://world.taobao.com/item/533004844639.htm?fromSite=main&spm=a312a.7700824.w4004-1190809218.2.pP6Edb
I finished the chassis for my DAC today. I decided to get a single 30Watt R-core transformer made with all the voltages I needed and used the built in 5V regulator as the pre-regulator for the DAC board. I went from barely being able to fit the three toroids into the chassis to having plenty of space!
Very niceI finished the chassis for my DAC today. I decided to get a single 30Watt R-core transformer made with all the voltages I needed and used the built in 5V regulator as the pre-regulator for the DAC board. I went from barely being able to fit the three toroids into the chassis to having plenty of space!
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. How it sounds compared to the single chip version?What do you have for the voltage regulators?
Lt1963 If it is not a very good choice.
Grounding of 220V You should not have attached to the body ...
Instead lt1963 what do you suggest?
I think at 5v position as preregulator is not bad. For audio +-15v i like Kubota or Audio gd.
I have tried some shunts but ... little to slow for me and darker sound.
Maybe that will help some members at assembling dac together.
Fluid...where did you buy that enclosure and maybe tell us price?
Thank you
I think at 5v position as preregulator is not bad. For audio +-15v i like Kubota or Audio gd.
I have tried some shunts but ... little to slow for me and darker sound.
Maybe that will help some members at assembling dac together.
Fluid...where did you buy that enclosure and maybe tell us price?
Thank you
I and several other people did not like lt1963 DAC supply chains. Neither the analog part or even in the digital part. Even the Chinese developers of low-cost DAC ceased to use it in new models of boards.
Surprisingly, this power supply board is good in the digital part. It's a classic scheme. Either it is necessary to use new ldo with good frequency characteristics.
https://world.taobao.com/item/529758280774.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.RShO7v#detail
Fluid: Congrats. That is lovely work.
My story has a happy ending too. Yesterday, I ditched the SURE digital volume control, and installed an ALPS blue 10K pot in front of the amp board. All is good. No clipping. Great sound, and I am already hearing extra backing singers, where I had not before.
Thanks everyone for the advice and debugging.
There are some cleaver folk here!
My story has a happy ending too. Yesterday, I ditched the SURE digital volume control, and installed an ALPS blue 10K pot in front of the amp board. All is good. No clipping. Great sound, and I am already hearing extra backing singers, where I had not before.
Thanks everyone for the advice and debugging.
There are some cleaver folk here!
730 user,
Thanks for the link. Interesting regulator.
What do you suggest for analog part so for +-15v?
https://world.taobao.com/item/52945...spm=a312a.7700824.w4004-15493940512.32.yil38c
Thank you,
Thanks for the link. Interesting regulator.
What do you suggest for analog part so for +-15v?
https://world.taobao.com/item/52945...spm=a312a.7700824.w4004-15493940512.32.yil38c
Thank you,
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I have not used for a double studer900 supply + -15V. I had another воаrd, and I used it.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=35405559015
Also part of the analog DAC (10V) I also powered by this control. From its + 15V. I enjoyed it so much more than from a separate regulator studer900. But this is only my opinion.
In these boards I replaced part of the capacitor. In addition to the nutrition Studer900 tl072 can be replaced by a newer tle2072. There is a slight improvement.
I want a simple and cheap board to + -15V. For the project to tda1387.
Who can respond to the scheme LM317 / LM337 LF353&
Anyone can say anything on this circuit?
LM317 LM337 Active Servo Adjustable Regulated Power Supply Bare PCB Board LF353 | eBay
They are TL1963 the TI version of the LT1963 so pretty much the same.
You are certainly entitled to your opinion on the regulators but they are used by some top end manufacturers in some very expensive equipment. If they were awful then they would not be used.
Here is a picture of an MSB Analog DAC, a very expensive and well regarded piece of equipment and look what is in the power supply, LT1963 and LT3015. I think I'm with MSB on this one. Click on it for a larger picture.
If you are talking about the transformer then you are wrong, the yellow and green wire on the primary is a screen which needs to be earthed to the chassis. The two red wires are the 230V AC connections.
This is a little unusual as most transformers are not screened, but this one has a copper foil screen. Toroidy does the same on some of their high end toroidals.
This is the enclosure from this store, I had them machine it to a CAD drawing that I made for the front panel it was about 60 Yuan more for the machining. The price for the shipping is what makes it more expensive depending on where you need it to be sent.
https://world.taobao.com/item/3566356911.htm?fromSite=main&spm=a312a.7700846.0.0.qNvGbW&_u=12o2hn3c32db
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you managed to get your's working and that it was the SURE board that was to blame
The LME49710 is an improvement over the 5534 as far as I'm concerned at least in the limited time I have listened to them both in this DAC.
I am absolutely convinced about lt1963. And it's not just my opinion.
I meant 230V grounded. It should not be connected to the DAC body. This is the opinion of one of the best developers DIY DAC in Russia - Linх.
??????????????? ??????????????? ?? ?????? "??????-?????" ???????? - Lynxaudio - ?????????????????? ??????? ????????????????????
I don't really want to debate the merits or otherwise of various voltage regulators. You don't like them that's fine, other's don't like them that is fine too.
My point was that not everyone agrees with you and some of those people make some great products.
That link just takes me to a page of nice looking DAC boards, no mention of regulators that I can see.
Are you suggesting that the chassis should not be earthed? Maybe it's a language barrier but there is absolutely nothing wrong with the way I have wired this DAC. The chassis is connected directly to the safety ground as it should be.
Lynx uses shunt regulators on operational amplifiers and high-precision current sources.
220V Grounding is not necessary to be connected to the body! This improves the safety of the appliance. But worsens other parameters.
It's perfect - if you own a cottage and a separate ground connection. If it is an apartment with common ground around the house is a bad thing.
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