New Built sub enclosure not sounding right......

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Cheers Michael...

I'm after low deep bass and not too worried about the midbass as the old box had loads of midbass, and hit real hard...

I've never really had a problem with designing and building sub enclosures for myself and mates...
Few hundred watt setups...
Single and double 10s 12s and 15s...
It's more of a hobby and the end result of course...

But with this, I suppose it's a different story altogether running a couple of thousand watts!!!!
 
Sorry, I didn't see your last post. What are the t/s of your woofer (Vas, Fs, Qes, Qts)? I will rework the plots again.

Hey Michael, these car audio SPL subs are probably a different beast than what you are used to. They tend to have really tight suspensions (low Vas) that makes the standard subwoofer alignments inapplicable, as indicated by the really small box sizes you are getting. Also a flat frequency response isn't usually the goal or even possible most of the time.
 
The Qes is questionable. Maybe it's 0.508

As long as the t/s parameters are correct, it doesn't matter whether for home or car use.

Talking about suspension, this reminds me of my Volfenhag subs. Out of curiosity, I bought a pair of 12" and 15" years ago. Their suspensions were so stiff, they hardly moved. Their publish t/s was way off. Tested them in a 150L closed box and all I got was mid-bass. Cone hardly moved. I think I will have to apply very heavy EQ from 70Hz - 40Hz and pump in a lot of power for them to come alive. Never got down to testing them further. I moved on to other woofers. Brand new, still sitting on the shelf :(
 
Got it is think...
 

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Ok, I understand. Some European cars have the trunk separated from the cabin by a metal wall, makes getting bass from the cargo area into the cabin very difficult. Fortunately you don't have that problem.

Here is a design that should work well for you. Its 2.0 cu ft net tuned to about 32 Hz with about 44 sq in of port area. I tried to hit a good compromise between port area, tuning frequency, and port length. Nothing is perfect but this should do about as well as you could hope.

The design assumes 3/4" thick material. All panels except the top and bottom are 12.5" wide.

You are going to want to place the box about 4" from your rear hatch for best results.
 

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Thanks a million for taking time out for designing me a box thejessman...

I will get this going this week hopefully and I'll keep you all posted on this project as I go a long...

As long as I keep 2 cuft after all displacement and with 44sq in port area,.. it should be perfect...
I may alter dimensions a little as the depth of the HCCA is just under 11 inches!!!
 
I think you should be good on mounting depth, with how I have it laid out you should have 11.25" of depth available between the top of the baffle and the internal port panel. Those subs sure are deep.

If that sub has a pole vent (pics online suggest that it might), you need to leave at least 1.5" and preferably more between the back of the magnet and any nearby walls.

Not also that Orion says that this driver should be used facing up or down.

Given the specs of this driver, I'd probably use it sealed and if one didn't provide enough bass, I'd use two :).
 
Hi Brian

Yes it does have a pole vent so I may move around with dimensions a little...

And I've tried it in a sealed box a little larger than recommended and it sounded s+++...

Curious. I've heard two of its 15" cousins in a sealed box and it sounded pretty impressive. Not as loud as a vented box can get, but it good deep and sounded good playing everything (rather than being "one-note" and capable of sounded good playing only rap and the like).

Note: location in the trunk can also make a noticeable difference to how a subwoofer sounds (upper range of its frequency response).
 
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