Well according to Peter Daniel 4A or 5A fuse is pretty normal for a gainclone:
http://www.audiosector.com/nigc_kit-users_guide.pdf
I'd not worry about it too much. He knows what he is doing.
I have built the P101 from ESP (Project 101 - High Power, High Fidelity Lateral MOSFET power amplifier) whih is quite good - again on a broken amp. Its class AB though and I listen at low levels.
Jennifer:
You seem like someone who pays attention to detail, who has learned a lot and does the research needed and is concerned with doing things safe and right. There's lots of amps out there to build...and it seems like you are learning enough about working with AC and the basics of how amps work that you could build most any of them. It really comes down to what you have for speakers and what your listening preferences are. I've gone from guitar stompboxes to tube amps to Class D to Class A stuff. All of it is interesting and different but the basics are the same. I'd stick with the gainclone until you get an itch for something else...usually for me that's dictated by the fatness of my wallet.
You seem like someone who pays attention to detail, who has learned a lot and does the research needed and is concerned with doing things safe and right. There's lots of amps out there to build...and it seems like you are learning enough about working with AC and the basics of how amps work that you could build most any of them. It really comes down to what you have for speakers and what your listening preferences are. I've gone from guitar stompboxes to tube amps to Class D to Class A stuff. All of it is interesting and different but the basics are the same. I'd stick with the gainclone until you get an itch for something else...usually for me that's dictated by the fatness of my wallet.
I'm just driving two Infinity RS 2001 bookshelf speakers -- I run the bass to a Polk Powered Sub. Guessing the ACA would easily handle some pretty loud volumes for the tweeters and midrange speakers right?
Oh my goodness...
I just fixed my DAC based on the knowledge you guys gave me hear putting together my first amp. i.e. I had the RCA output jacks grounded directly to the case.. when this is already done on the DAC board. I replaced those jacks with insulated RCA jacks so they are now only grounded on the DAC PCB -- how it should be.
So many songs sound better, clearer more detail. LOVING this LM3886!
I can't wait to build the B1 buffer because I'm currently using a passive pre with 10K alps pot Y split internally sending the audio signal to both the LM3886 amp and the powered sub -- I'm sure it isn't impedance matched enough as is right? I was recommended to get the B1 buffer for my setup and so that's why I got it. I need to place an order for several semiconductors for it.
Also I want to build another DAC .. using a Fiio 24/96 right now and I've heard some say that it isn't the greatest.. but it was the best sounding one I could find at the time for under $100.
I just fixed my DAC based on the knowledge you guys gave me hear putting together my first amp. i.e. I had the RCA output jacks grounded directly to the case.. when this is already done on the DAC board. I replaced those jacks with insulated RCA jacks so they are now only grounded on the DAC PCB -- how it should be.
So many songs sound better, clearer more detail. LOVING this LM3886!
I can't wait to build the B1 buffer because I'm currently using a passive pre with 10K alps pot Y split internally sending the audio signal to both the LM3886 amp and the powered sub -- I'm sure it isn't impedance matched enough as is right? I was recommended to get the B1 buffer for my setup and so that's why I got it. I need to place an order for several semiconductors for it.
Also I want to build another DAC .. using a Fiio 24/96 right now and I've heard some say that it isn't the greatest.. but it was the best sounding one I could find at the time for under $100.
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The size of the speaker has little to do with the "efficiency" of the speaker. In fact, a lot of the smaller bookshelf-type speakers are the most power-hungry.
Your speakers are 89/db 6 ohm speakers. So, kind of middle of the road. ACA is only 5 watts...not a lot of power and if you listen loud (let's say over 80db at the listening position, get an app for your phone to measure) you may want more wattage like the Pass "F" amps offer. But if you are like me then speakers are always temporary placeholders for the next pair.
Your speakers are 89/db 6 ohm speakers. So, kind of middle of the road. ACA is only 5 watts...not a lot of power and if you listen loud (let's say over 80db at the listening position, get an app for your phone to measure) you may want more wattage like the Pass "F" amps offer. But if you are like me then speakers are always temporary placeholders for the next pair.
I've only ever got one good pair of speakers so far and these are the Infinity RS 2001's. Any recommendations on a pair of efficient bookshelf speakers that would sound awesome with my LM3886? I like the bookshelf speakers because I have them sitting on each side of my 40" 4K TV which is sitting on a desk, which I have a recliner in front of with my computer connecting to it. IT's the perfect listening height and well that's why I have the powered sub underneath. It's a pretty nice sub -- highly rated on Amazon at least (lol).
Nothing wrong w/89db speaks and a chipamp. You have enough power to drive those to anything under crazy loud levels.
A friend of mine just had a set of KEF LS50 on demo... Really, really nice speaker for the money. Extremely alive and vivid but still natural. But fairly inefficient (like a lot of good bookshelf speakers are) at 85db.
But speakers are pretty subjective, it pays to hear a lot of them.
A friend of mine just had a set of KEF LS50 on demo... Really, really nice speaker for the money. Extremely alive and vivid but still natural. But fairly inefficient (like a lot of good bookshelf speakers are) at 85db.
But speakers are pretty subjective, it pays to hear a lot of them.
wow, those are ex$pen$ive at $1500! dang i'd love to hear them on my setup for comparison though hah
You can get a pair of RS2001 for like $50 that need the woofers re-foamed.. but that kit is like $20 if I recall. I re-foamed mine pretty easily a few years back.
A sound engineer in Nashville actually recommended these RS2001 as a budget speaker that sounds good.
Yes, they are not budget models. But as speakers go, they are somewhat of a bargain.
But if your enthuisiasm for audio continues, you will soon view those speakers as "cheap". It's a slippery slope. Very slippery...
I've been driving a car with 2 broken windows that needs new tires for 10 years. But my speakers are awesome! It's all about priorities!
But if your enthuisiasm for audio continues, you will soon view those speakers as "cheap". It's a slippery slope. Very slippery...
I've been driving a car with 2 broken windows that needs new tires for 10 years. But my speakers are awesome! It's all about priorities!
the normal fuse for a 300VA 115Vac transformer is
3 * 300 /115 = 7.8A
Use a T6A or T8A
I am surprised you get away with T4A.
The close rated fuse is 300/115 = 2.6A, try T2.5A, or T3A and use 22r of added resistance in the primary feed. A pair of 10ohms to 15ohms Power Thermistors in series would be a good solution.
I recommend a time delayed relay bypass across the added resistor. Try 200ms delay.
3 * 300 /115 = 7.8A
Use a T6A or T8A
I am surprised you get away with T4A.
The close rated fuse is 300/115 = 2.6A, try T2.5A, or T3A and use 22r of added resistance in the primary feed. A pair of 10ohms to 15ohms Power Thermistors in series would be a good solution.
I recommend a time delayed relay bypass across the added resistor. Try 200ms delay.
I am using it with a new PSU that has only 5mV of ripple.
Hey I need to build a 9V regulated power supply for the SMSL M8 DAC I'll be getting in a couple days. I heard a linear power supply improves the sound over the stock switching wall wart.
I was wondering if I could use the above circuit, would it work for an output voltage of say 12v (same resistor and caps values?) Then I could run that into an LM317 to bring down to 9v.
OR maybe I can have the output voltage be 9v and send it to the SMSL M8 dac unregulated since it has an internal 78xxx series 9v to 5v voltage regulator.
Or maybe you have a better circuit by any chance for me to implement for this 9V dc supply?
Thanks!
I believe that dac is single supply (+ and ground) what you have posted is a bipolar supply. Not gonna work. Also, it's not really suited for the task imo.
I would look at a lm317 supply or if you want to get fancy the salas shunt or Jung super reg. But really, if there is a lm transistor regulator in the dac the performance is kind of dictated by that last regulator anyways. You can clean up the supply before that regulator but the output impedence, etc. is always going to be set by that internal reg.
Personally, I'd try batteries.
I would look at a lm317 supply or if you want to get fancy the salas shunt or Jung super reg. But really, if there is a lm transistor regulator in the dac the performance is kind of dictated by that last regulator anyways. You can clean up the supply before that regulator but the output impedence, etc. is always going to be set by that internal reg.
Personally, I'd try batteries.
This regulator board looks pretty good:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/263618-tps7a4700-low-noise-ldo-regulator-pcb.html
What do you think? 1A is more than enough.. I believe the DAC draws 480ma
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/263618-tps7a4700-low-noise-ldo-regulator-pcb.html
What do you think? 1A is more than enough.. I believe the DAC draws 480ma
It should work, I don't have experience with the TPS regulators but I wouldn't expect miracles if the DAC has another LM7805 to regulate the rails that will be after this regulator. Are you sure the LM7805 is for ALL rails of the DAC? It might just be a for USB or something.
Personally, I like the jung super reg. Boards are available here (Super Regulator – diyAudio Store), you will only need one side of it (the positive side). Parts cost is probably $20ish + PCB.
Personally, I like the jung super reg. Boards are available here (Super Regulator – diyAudio Store), you will only need one side of it (the positive side). Parts cost is probably $20ish + PCB.
To bes honest I am not even sure if it has 7805 inside.. the person that said that might be wrong.
Here is a link to the article talking about the innards of the SMSL M8.
S.M.S.L M8: reach up to 32 bit/384 kHz and DSD64/128 with this compact, yet refined, DAC!
He mentions the voltage regulators on the board:
"The 9V voltage from the power supply is used to power two voltages of + 5V, one serving the conversion stages, and the other facilitating the management and display circuits. Both are stabilized by regulators of the 78M05 type, and there is also a BA033 regulator present (3.3V) which is not visible in the photo below."
S.M.S.L M8: reach up to 32 bit/384 kHz and DSD64/128 with this compact, yet refined, DAC!
He mentions the voltage regulators on the board:
"The 9V voltage from the power supply is used to power two voltages of + 5V, one serving the conversion stages, and the other facilitating the management and display circuits. Both are stabilized by regulators of the 78M05 type, and there is also a BA033 regulator present (3.3V) which is not visible in the photo below."
So if I did this, I'd just split the signal from the B1 buffer (which I am building ina couple days after the parts come) and run one pair into the LM3886 and one pair into the ACA? [Actually I'd be splitting the signal three ways because one goes to a powered sub already.] Then I'd have a voltage divider of the appropriate resistance pair in the LM3886 to attenuate the signal just the right amount to keep them in balance? Right now I have no volume knob on the LM3886 amp.. I just use the preamp for it.
Then I'd have to add an extra set of terminals in the Infinity rs2001 speakers make some internal mods to them? Like removing the crossovers?
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