Yup, they're the same, but I went directly to Modushop/Hifi2000 because I wanted some customizations. The chassis that I have is basically the DIYAudio Deluxe 4U except with a 3U height. The normal 3U chassis sold here doesn't have the rear panel drilled like I wanted. Modushop is convenient because they will drill any holes that you want for like $25. They will also engrave patterns and do other types of custom work. It makes things easier when dealing with weird patterns like the Neutrik XLR holes or the 25mm cutout required for those anti-vandal push button switches.
I'm pretty happy with how the chassis looks. Assembling it was kind of awkward, because you need to basically loosely assemble the entire thing in order to ensure alignment before tightening down each panel. It's kind of hard to explain, but it becomes evident when you start putting it together. In the end, it's worth it though because the thing is extremely sturdy.
One final picture and I'm done
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I noticed that as well. That's an extremely good deal. Not that I mind an excuse to use my drill press, but having the bits machined to order for $25 is pretty nice.
Makes sense. It's the same with the Chinese eBay chassis that I used.
You get bonus points for your inductor winding skills! Those are pretty. Also bonus points for going with a green ON-indicator rather than the ubiquitous (and incredibly blinding) blue.
I like the chassis. It's a serious chassis for a serious amp. My next project will involve eight channels for driving a pair of SL Orion. ModuShop (or DIY Audio Shop) will get my money for sure.
Tom
Good to hear some impressions against the MyRef. Although I cannot remember what differences the Fremen Edition made, my own experience is that changing the current gain (increasing it in my case) did produce a much cleaner and well controlled sound.
Unklejoe, that's a great-looking build. Thanks for posting!
With regards to the DIYAudioStore chassis, they are literally the same as the Modushop/HiFi2000 chassis. At least based on my sample size of two. I have recently ordered two Galaxy 2U 230x230 chassis (not for Mod86). They literally shipped from Italy in Modushop/HiFi2000 packaging.
I ordered my cases "bare", but it looks like the DIYAudioStore will also do the customization, see this link.
With regards to the DIYAudioStore chassis, they are literally the same as the Modushop/HiFi2000 chassis. At least based on my sample size of two.
I have recently ordered two Galaxy 2U 230x230 chassis (not for Mod86). They literally shipped from Italy in Modushop/HiFi2000 packaging.I ordered my cases "bare", but it looks like the DIYAudioStore will also do the customization, see this link.
Very nice build Unklejoe. I'm building Mod86 stereo using a Modushop GX388. Your layout gave me some good ideas especially, the boards on end, with the tops reversed. I'm going for a case as small as possible as I like to hide components. If only floor standing speaker could be hidden.
Thanks,
henrylrjr
Thanks,
henrylrjr
The can around the IEC filter is the emi shield that takes the interference to the chassis.
The can needs to be electrically connected to the chassis and preferably the "hole" through which the plug protrudes should be (nearly) continuously connected to the enclosing can.
Yep. Then you take the ground terminal on the IEC inlet and connect it to the chassis as well with a short piece of wire. It's the connection from the filter can to the chassis that forms the ground connection for EMI suppression. The wire is "just" there for safety in case the can-to-chassis connection fails.
The BZ4309 chassis I used came with a regular fused IEC inlet, no filter, so I went without the mains filter. I haven't had any issues with that approach. That said, there's no harm of using an IEC filter either. I'd get a 6 A or 10 A version. Note that the lower current versions generally provide better filtering. Check the manufacturer's data sheet to make sure.
Tom
I've been using 5 mm plastic spacers for decades. On this side of the pond, 3/16" or 1/4" are more commonly available. Get some with a decent wall thickness intended for M3 or #4 machine screws. My last batch I bought at Digikey. I'm sure Mouser can help you out here as well.
An alternative is a threaded hexagonal standoff. They're more expensive than the plastic standoffs, but rather nice to work with. Digikey and Mouser carry those, but if you need more than a couple, I suggest paying McMaster-Carr a visit.
Tom
An alternative is a threaded hexagonal standoff. They're more expensive than the plastic standoffs, but rather nice to work with. Digikey and Mouser carry those, but if you need more than a couple, I suggest paying McMaster-Carr a visit.
Tom
Thanks. $.36 on mcmaster versus $3+ on some audiophile sites.
Also found ERA rubber stand offs, $4 on one audiophile site versus $2 on a non audiophile site.
Does anyone knows where to get OFHC stranded wire in teflon, FEP or PTFE?
Does anyone know where to get Van Den Hul hook-up wire?
I also saved a lot on XLR chassis connectors on mouser $9 versus $20+ on some audiophile sites.
Also found ERA rubber stand offs, $4 on one audiophile site versus $2 on a non audiophile site.
Does anyone knows where to get OFHC stranded wire in teflon, FEP or PTFE?
Does anyone know where to get Van Den Hul hook-up wire?
I also saved a lot on XLR chassis connectors on mouser $9 versus $20+ on some audiophile sites.
I have a question regarding proximity of the transformer to the Mod86 boards. I've made about 8 different layouts trying to get the transformer as far from the boards, and speaker and XLR connections, as possible in a 12.2"W X 11" D case. What is a good distance. I'd rather not use Mu metal but my layouts would make it easy to put a straight sheet between the power86 and transformer
I came across what may be a pretty good chassis wire.Its Belden 1309A and it is two 14 AWG OFHC copper, high strand count, polyolefin insulated wires inside a thin PVC jacket. AT $.91 per foot it seems a bargain. Any thoughts on that wire for hook up of the Power86 to M0d86 and also for Mod86 to binding post?
Thanks,
henrylrjr
Thanks,
henrylrjr
Very tempted by this amp but I have a slight concern. I've heard a few comments that say the amp lacks a bit of bass and I'm wondering if it has something to do with the LME49710?
An old thread here mentions them (LINK). Yes I know implementation and the correct decoupling is very important but I very clever guy on pinkfish tried all sorts of decoupling and didn't like the sound (think he may of used the LM4562 though).
Would the NE5534 work in this position without any circuit modifications?
An old thread here mentions them (LINK). Yes I know implementation and the correct decoupling is very important but I very clever guy on pinkfish tried all sorts of decoupling and didn't like the sound (think he may of used the LM4562 though).
Would the NE5534 work in this position without any circuit modifications?
You mean the Mod-86 lacks bass, or LM-3886 implementations in general. All sorts of things can affect perceptions of bass so need to be a bit more specific
No it won't. This is a composite amplifier so the LM3886 is within the LME49710 feedback loop. The whole design is optimised around the active devices and so op-amp rolling will result in badthings(tm) happening.
I know of someone who has a mod 86. And he wants to get rid of it. Your comment about the bass makes me wonder
