So far, getting a nice long wishlist:
TDA8932BTW (with heatsink interface)
Resistors directly onto, in series to, all four input pins (applies to most of the NXP)
Four of 1u input caps, each with additional picofareds cap to ground for rf shunt.
Input loads of 100k (or a lighter load)
Bigger cap for pin12 (maybe 1u instead of 100n)
47u (or 100u) standby delay cap
Array decoupling (like that 5x100u)
SE (stereo) mode
Pair 2200u left, pair 2200u right, (4 caps) speaker dc filter
Single rail power and 50v caps (24v~30vdc used)
Just making some notes. Do you have anything to add?
TDA8932BTW (with heatsink interface)
Resistors directly onto, in series to, all four input pins (applies to most of the NXP)
Four of 1u input caps, each with additional picofareds cap to ground for rf shunt.
Input loads of 100k (or a lighter load)
Bigger cap for pin12 (maybe 1u instead of 100n)
47u (or 100u) standby delay cap
Array decoupling (like that 5x100u)
SE (stereo) mode
Pair 2200u left, pair 2200u right, (4 caps) speaker dc filter
Single rail power and 50v caps (24v~30vdc used)
Just making some notes. Do you have anything to add?
That's the least expensive integrated BT amp I have seen. Very basic but does the job for a remote mounted speaker. Layout doesn't look as tight as Sanwu and parts not of same quality but it has BT.
Is the Bluetooth board split rail or is it single rail with output caps???????????
I'm sure that People would like to know.
After a good power supply (whichever type it might need), that looks good to go.
Also, that Onkyo phone app for music replay (and your remote control).
I'm sure that People would like to know.
After a good power supply (whichever type it might need), that looks good to go.
Also, that Onkyo phone app for music replay (and your remote control).
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I can't find the cord for my digital FM meter. I'm not ignoring you. If this goes on long enough I'll hook up the old SA80 and then with the analog meter and headphones (and a very tiny antenna so that everything is far fringe, thus more obvious) create an opinion. That's plan B and it will not tell us exactly how much of what, like the digital meter could do (if only I could find the cord. That thing has the curse of square batteries, so it is never ready to go unless it had been plugged in almost nonstop. That wasn't the case--we got on an energy saving kick, which was profitable except for a few rare inconveniences).
In the car, I use FM, but that does not suffice for the house; so, I used RadioTracker, and a 32gb Samsung TF chip in an deprecated LG phone (in "airplane mode" it is a tablet), hooked up to, well, darned near everything. In batches, I used Foobar2000 with the fake stereo plugin turned on during "convert" and have manufactured storage size efficient variable bit-rate MP3 with really simplified tags; just artist, title, genre, album (genre and album are same for all files). The capacity is 8600 files. With a fixed collection, it is important to add the weird, novel, fringe and funny pieces so that it doesn't sound stale. It has worked somewhat better than underpaid teens at the radio station. Android capacity is not the stated 16GB limit, but rather it is 21. If you run over 21GB, it behaves poorly. So, I also utilize Foobar2000's file management capacity, for culling down to 21GB.
In the car, which is when I actually use FM, they usually chose to play that one song from Justin Bieber, equal parts passable voice combined with 80's synth faked with modern sampler that wasn't good then and is only slightly worse when fake. So, that's at least why haven't utilized that particular cord in at least the time-frame it has taken to lose it.
I really haven't been ignoring you; however, the radio station people have been busy specializing in car tunes, and I haven't been busy replacing car amplifiers. The 1993 caddy has an outdated system that works excessively well (especially when fed a few appropriate CD's for car use); so, I had not yet been convinced of a need in working with car audio, such as FM.
Also, I'm still trying to find that cord. Darn the square batteries!!!!
I do think that the matter is important. But, I also think that you could do better than the DJ's.
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This guy set me TDA8932BT four out of five times.
All of the recent purchase was TDA8932BT.
Digital Amplifier Board Module 35W Mono Power Amplifier Low Power TDA8932 12V 24 | eBay
Ebay# 221926998218
All of the recent purchase was TDA8932BT.
Digital Amplifier Board Module 35W Mono Power Amplifier Low Power TDA8932 12V 24 | eBay
Ebay# 221926998218
Idiotic looking mod for maximized power plus maximized fidelity...
In this experiment...
The tweeter is connected from one of the outputs, then returned with 4u7~10u cap series to power ground, for SE mode.
The optional midrange is connected from the opposite output, then returned with 22u~47u cap series to power ground, for SE mode.
The woofer is connected between both of the outputs (normal hookup) for BTL mode.
That's how it went.
This case requires tweeter (and optional midrange) be more efficient than the woofer, but since that is normal for product availability, it is not normally inconvenient. An inconvenience could exist at the need to re-work the speaker crossover for facilitating bi-amp (or tri-amp) usage. That is not intensive for ordinary/normal parallel crossovers.
I utilized gator clip leads and a potshot guess, and the labor was less than 8 minutes.
This experiment illustrates and realizes tri-amp (or bi-amp) from only one amplifier board. Sounds like tri-amp to me.
Previous effort at changing the amp over to hi-fi mode resulted in 11 watts (and more big caps and difficult micro-soldering); however, the easier method in this post does 45W mid-fi for the woofer, 11W hi-fi for the tweeter (and 11W more for optional midrange), simultaneously (up to thermal limits, of course).
I'm so astonished.
This post is the "easy-solder" method to get hi-fi out of this amp.
Four times the power in hi-fi mode, is brought to you by Tide, which is really terrible in the dryer. So, it does matter how you use it.
P.S.
This mode can also be used for a super-tweeter companion to your full range. In that case the tweeter's filter cap is probably 1u (and a series resistor can be added on the tweeter's opposite pole, if needed).
In this experiment...
The tweeter is connected from one of the outputs, then returned with 4u7~10u cap series to power ground, for SE mode.
The optional midrange is connected from the opposite output, then returned with 22u~47u cap series to power ground, for SE mode.
The woofer is connected between both of the outputs (normal hookup) for BTL mode.
That's how it went.
This case requires tweeter (and optional midrange) be more efficient than the woofer, but since that is normal for product availability, it is not normally inconvenient. An inconvenience could exist at the need to re-work the speaker crossover for facilitating bi-amp (or tri-amp) usage. That is not intensive for ordinary/normal parallel crossovers.
I utilized gator clip leads and a potshot guess, and the labor was less than 8 minutes.
This experiment illustrates and realizes tri-amp (or bi-amp) from only one amplifier board. Sounds like tri-amp to me.
Previous effort at changing the amp over to hi-fi mode resulted in 11 watts (and more big caps and difficult micro-soldering); however, the easier method in this post does 45W mid-fi for the woofer, 11W hi-fi for the tweeter (and 11W more for optional midrange), simultaneously (up to thermal limits, of course).
I'm so astonished.
This post is the "easy-solder" method to get hi-fi out of this amp.
Four times the power in hi-fi mode, is brought to you by Tide, which is really terrible in the dryer. So, it does matter how you use it.
P.S.
This mode can also be used for a super-tweeter companion to your full range. In that case the tweeter's filter cap is probably 1u (and a series resistor can be added on the tweeter's opposite pole, if needed).
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In this experiment...
The tweeter is connected from one of the outputs, then returned with 4u7~10u cap series to power ground, for SE mode.
The optional midrange is connected from the opposite output, then returned with 22u~47u cap series to power ground, for SE mode.
The woofer is connected between both of the outputs (normal hookup) for BTL mode.
That's how it went.
This case requires tweeter (and optional midrange) be more efficient than the woofer, but since that is normal for product availability, it is not normally inconvenient. An inconvenience could exist at the need to re-work the speaker crossover for facilitating bi-amp (or tri-amp) usage. That is not intensive for ordinary/normal parallel crossovers.
I utilized gator clip leads and a potshot guess, and the labor was less than 8 minutes.
This experiment illustrates and realizes tri-amp (or bi-amp) from only one amplifier board. Sounds like tri-amp to me.
Previous effort at changing the amp over to hi-fi mode resulted in 11 watts (and more big caps and difficult micro-soldering); however, the easier method in this post does 45W mid-fi for the woofer, 11W hi-fi for the tweeter (and 11W more for optional midrange), simultaneously (up to thermal limits, of course).
I'm so astonished.
This post is the "easy-solder" method to get hi-fi out of this amp.
Four times the power in hi-fi mode, is brought to you by Tide, which is really terrible in the dryer. So, it does matter how you use it.
P.S.
This mode can also be used for a super-tweeter companion to your full range. In that case the tweeter's filter cap is probably 1u (and a series resistor can be added on the tweeter's opposite pole, if needed).
This is quite fascinating and can you explain again how a 10w amp can deliver 45w, plus 11w, and 11w simultaneously? Any photos?
So the woofer is running Fullrange then? It would be a nicer speaker to add an inductor in series to the woofer for the low pass, and an inductor and capacitor to the mid for the band pass and now if you set your acoustic offsets just right and the xo frequencies just right - you might have a transient perfect 3 way speaker that is tri-amped but passive xo. I never knew this amp can work SE from either the positive or negative terminal. Isn't the negative SE out 180 degrees out of phase?
Is the sole crossover for the tweeter a single cap?
If so look out for IM distortion because Xmax of a tweeter is usually exceeded by the not-attenuated-enough mid + bass signal that still gets through.
The 4u7~10u cap is in addition to the normal, passive crossover for tweeter.
Except in the case of adding a super-tweeter to a full range set, in which case the tweeter uses just a cap, except a lot smaller value, such as 1u.
Ordinary parallel crossover is used. The specific type I used is a 2nd order Parallel crossover. These can be split easily for bi-amp use.
Additional cap added per the amplifier datasheet, SE mode schematic, and the cap mounted to power ground provides the speaker return. Exception: Since the cap weren't used by the woofer, we can use rather a small cap.
For bi-amp with only one amp board:
I had hooked up the woofer (and its customary normal crossover parts with it), in BTL mode.
Also, I hooked up a higher efficiency tweeter in SE mode. It has an ordinary 2nd order parallel type of tweeter crossover, with one addition. Since the tweeter is coupled twice (a cap series with + in the crossover and a cap series with - at the amp ground) the phase isn't awkward, although I did have to select some decent caps. And that sort of hookup is protective to the tweeter.
The datasheet tells how much loading (that affects efficiency) versus how much power output. Unfortunately, these figures are just the headroom--the amp doesn't have the thermal capacity to do nonstop full-blast. A light speaker load (8 ohm or higher figure) playing real music signal, comes close to the datasheet claims for output power. However, a heavy speaker load playing wideband test tones does half as much output power, the remainder warms the heatsink and then the thermal limiter throttles the output, resulting in even less power available to the speaker. So, utilization will affect the amount of power output you get.
I hadn't really thought about all the aspects. Instead, I was just thinking that this is the easiest way to hear the tweeter run in SE mode. Since the DC block cap (added at power ground per the datasheet) can be much smaller for tweeter use, there's no inconvenient micro-soldering to do.
Here is a "red board" variant implementation I just received last night. Haven't had a chance to listen to them yet. I'm going to power them with this "AC Converter 110v 220v to 24V MAX 9A 150W Regulated Transformer Power Supply" cheap SMPS (it was mentioned in the "cheap tpa3118 boards + mods" thread).
Thought they would make for a fun, cheap project. I've been doing tpa311x projects for years now, thought I ought to try something different.
What appealed to me about these red boards is that they have easy through-holes for balanced input. I'm thinking about replacing the stock input caps with jumpers, and using this Edcor TTPK15k/15k transformer I've had for a while now. When I got them last night I noticed that while the stock electrolytic caps are SMT, the board also has through-holes for these components. Seems OS-CONs are obligatory at this point!
Attached are pics. I tried to do the "flashlight" trick to better expose the board traces, though the photo didn't come out as good as it looked to me. This was a quick cellphone pic, if there's interest I'll bust out the DSLR and try to do better.
Thought they would make for a fun, cheap project. I've been doing tpa311x projects for years now, thought I ought to try something different.
What appealed to me about these red boards is that they have easy through-holes for balanced input. I'm thinking about replacing the stock input caps with jumpers, and using this Edcor TTPK15k/15k transformer I've had for a while now. When I got them last night I noticed that while the stock electrolytic caps are SMT, the board also has through-holes for these components. Seems OS-CONs are obligatory at this point!
Attached are pics. I tried to do the "flashlight" trick to better expose the board traces, though the photo didn't come out as good as it looked to me. This was a quick cellphone pic, if there's interest I'll bust out the DSLR and try to do better.
Attachments
See post 150 and post 157 for TDA8932T versus TDA8932BT.
TDA8923BT is easier to use and maintains good quality in most conditions.
Older TDA8932T (in your photo) doesn't drive tweeters well in BTL mode, but it can do good quality with either just the tweeters in SE mode (return point is simply a small cap series with 0v--that cap blocks DC and does Not replace any speaker crossover parts) or whole speaker in SE mode (see datasheet for that delay cap, charge lines and other details).
Although the above two chips may run at near 40 watts for music (if driving 8 ohm or lighter loads), the datasheet maximum specs are achieved by TDA8932BTW which has a heatsink tab added.
TDA8923BT is easier to use and maintains good quality in most conditions.
Older TDA8932T (in your photo) doesn't drive tweeters well in BTL mode, but it can do good quality with either just the tweeters in SE mode (return point is simply a small cap series with 0v--that cap blocks DC and does Not replace any speaker crossover parts) or whole speaker in SE mode (see datasheet for that delay cap, charge lines and other details).
Although the above two chips may run at near 40 watts for music (if driving 8 ohm or lighter loads), the datasheet maximum specs are achieved by TDA8932BTW which has a heatsink tab added.
Matt,
Sorry buddy. I didn't mean to say that you'd purchased a poorly amplifier. That's not the case at all. The older TDA8932t can do a fantastic job with woofers, midranges and tweeters. What I had meant to mention is that the hookup for fantastic is merely slightly complicated. Within its thermal capacity, there's absolutely nothing that can do a finer job with your 8 ohm woofers up to 40-ish watts, in BTL mode. There's also very few amplifiers that can drive tweeters in more relevant quality with that amp in SE mode. And one chip can do both jobs at the same time. So, what I was saying is that the hookups won't be as convenient as claimed.
You'll need the speaker adapted to bi-amp hookup to maximize that amp.
But after that, it might lack for peers.
See? Not a bad amp.
Sorry buddy. I didn't mean to say that you'd purchased a poorly amplifier. That's not the case at all. The older TDA8932t can do a fantastic job with woofers, midranges and tweeters. What I had meant to mention is that the hookup for fantastic is merely slightly complicated. Within its thermal capacity, there's absolutely nothing that can do a finer job with your 8 ohm woofers up to 40-ish watts, in BTL mode. There's also very few amplifiers that can drive tweeters in more relevant quality with that amp in SE mode. And one chip can do both jobs at the same time. So, what I was saying is that the hookups won't be as convenient as claimed.
You'll need the speaker adapted to bi-amp hookup to maximize that amp.
But after that, it might lack for peers.
See? Not a bad amp.