Quick verification on first 230V fused and switched inlet

[NicoGal]

Hi, just to make sure I have "got a clue" when building (or rather connecting) my two Anaview AMS modules to power for the first time. Could anyone more seasoned DIYer have a look at this wiring I would be grateful. I'm in Europe and the inlet has a fuse (bottom), SPST switch (top) and C14 inlet, the twisted ones would go to module #1 and from there to #2

Thanks in advance
/Niclas

 

[infinia]

looks fine
you could "buzz it out" with an ohm meter to dbl check the fuse and switch function.

 

[cliffforrest]

And you could read up about using a series mains bulb before first switch on. This has saved many people a LOT of grief, bangs, pops, flashes and an "Oh S**t!" moment.

Seriously.

 

[mcandmar]

Nope, looks totally wrong to me. You have the live and neutral connected to a SPST switch, thats just going to create a short when you flick the switch.

 

[GM]

Hmm, only knowing that the European standard is:

br = hot

bl = neutral

y/gr = safety gnd


C14 [hot]------br------sw-| |-sw------fuse-|||-fuse------br------to amp

C14 [neutral]-----bl------to amp

C14 [gnd]------y/gr------to amp chassis service ground

Can't see any markings or find any switch, fuse block that look even remotely like these, but assume the switch/fuse is a one piece device at the top and rear of C14, then heed everyone's warning when doing any wiring and especially mcandmar's, as shorting out 250 V is a whole lot more dangerous than our 'wimpy' 110-120 V that tends to make a lot of folks over here pretty careless overall, even playing with it for 'kicks'.

GM

 

[M8e]

The neutral/(blue) should go directly to the load wih no switch or fuse.(onless one have a two pole switch)

The line/phase(brown) should go through the fuse and switch.

 

[NicoGal]

All, thanks a LOT (!) for setting me straight, I initially had it as GM and M8e says:

But wanted to have another check at http://sound.westhost.com/psu-wiring.htm and then most photos you find are with DPDT switches => confuses more than I thought it could do..

I have also got this answer from other swedes with 250VAC experience. They also pointed out the responsibility is always mine and a forum thread could/should never verify a connection, only point out problems.

 

[mcandmar]

That diagram is exactly how it should be wired. Dual pole switches are pretty rare, you will mainly only ever see single pole switches on the live side, which is perfectly fine.

 

[AndrewT]

Dual pole switches are common. They are mandatory for some equipment.

Keep the twisted pairs. That reduces intereference.

Check continuity of the Brown/Live all the way from plug top to transformer via the fuse and switch. Don't get this mixed up with the Neutral. Sticking with the standard Brown and Blue helps everyone who looks inside at some later date.
A wiring diagram glued to the inside of the lid is very handy for future maintenance.

 

[M8e]

Right

Dual pole switches are fairly common in europe due to non-polarised plugs/outlets.(with some exceptions like UK, france, switzerland).

For example power strips can't have single pole switches. They either have a dual pole switch or no switch.

 

[GM]

All, thanks a LOT (!)

They also pointed out the responsibility is always mine and a forum thread could/should never verify a connection, only point out problems.

You're welcome!

Thanks for the image, I Googled with no luck.

Yes, absolutely, and as already noted, you should verify polarity as far up the power/signal 'chain' as practical with some type of meter/tester as there's no guarantee that the color wiring is accurate, then follow the appropriate wiring code.

Drawing out what you want to do in a simple 'ladder' diagram will make everything clear no matter how complex the total circuit is, then it's just a matter of verifying where these points are physically and 'connecting the dots' with wire. Permanently documenting what you did is a good plan too as you can't be too safe where high voltage and/or current is present.

GM