Because the DIFFERENCE in core to core matching is pretty low, you will find that screened twisted pair from reputable manufacturers has very little effect in reducing interference performance.
It's the terminations where the parasitics can differ substantially in bad layout designs.
Don't blame the cable first, look at the PCB traces and connections.
It's the terminations where the parasitics can differ substantially in bad layout designs.
Don't blame the cable first, look at the PCB traces and connections.
A quick question it looks like I have one unit of fets in my build unmarked. See first pick the left one
Most likely it should be BC560C although looking at the stores it seems to be out of production, hence the question is what version should be picked up as a replacement BC560CTA?
What key parameters I should be matching?
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Most likely it should be BC560C although looking at the stores it seems to be out of production, hence the question is what version should be picked up as a replacement BC560CTA?
What key parameters I should be matching?
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they are not selling less.
It's around 7usd not too much. Should be fine and some room for other projects. Solder is on the list too. Currently used Cardas, I think of trying something else could you recommend
Was looking at WBT and Mundorf as well but it's pricey)
I will make a photo of matched 170s later on. Got them from tea bag's kits. The first board was quite good I've seen matched values. But for this one it looks like the values are not so close.
So curious whether this kind of matching would be enough. Or need to get some from diyaudio store. If so, would grade B be good or grade A is preferred?
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Was looking at WBT and Mundorf as well but it's pricey)
I will make a photo of matched 170s later on. Got them from tea bag's kits. The first board was quite good I've seen matched values. But for this one it looks like the values are not so close.
So curious whether this kind of matching would be enough. Or need to get some from diyaudio store. If so, would grade B be good or grade A is preferred?
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Aradan,
I think solder is solder. I've used cardas quad and kester 60/40 in a variety of pieces and it all works fine. I think conventional wisdom is a good solder joint is better than a bad joint with fancy solder.
I bought my 170s from eBay seller alweit. Reasonably priced, shipped from Israel to the USA was not expensive. They were well matched with IDSS in the recommended range. I think others here have ordered from him as well.
Hope that helps.
Corey
Solder must be easy to work with and each joint be done in two seconds. If it takes more its bad. Lead free wires with tin and silver only are a pain. Use leaded eutectic. Much more important and effective is to have good iron, at least a Hakko FX-888D station, than a collection of fancy audiophile spools
Yes, for electronics use a lowish temperature "eutectic", not 60/40 nor 40/60. It needs the lead to get the lowish temperature at sensible cost.
A 3element eutectic can offer some advantage, if some silver, or copper, is needed.
62/36/2 with the 2% being either copper, or silver, can be bought.
Cardas are the only supplier of 4 element eutectic that I am aware of.
They don't tell us the composition.
makes me wonder if it is not actually a lead bearing eutectic?
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does that mean that the rest of the world cannot invent the same 4 element eutectic?
or does that mean Cardas have found and patented the ONLY 4 element eutectic?
or does that mean that Cardas are claiming it is a eutectic and if they revealed the composition, then others could prove it is not a eutectic at all. Just a pasty transition like 60/40.
You can buy a good solder like Johnson solder which is a IA-423 ternary eutectic. Price is good and they actually tell you the percentage which is 4.7% Silver and 1.7% Copper, the rest being tin. I use both 63/37 and the Johnson but prefer the old 63/37 to work with...
Johnson Solder
Ciao!
Do
Johnson Solder
Ciao!
Do