These tda7297 look better, plenty room to print Folsom on them.
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.22.arQW0a&id=36690202464&ns=1&abbucket=9
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.22.arQW0a&id=36690202464&ns=1&abbucket=9
Is there a way to achieve this on the stock e-bay board? Maybe by cutting some traces and hardwiring others?
Thanks! I wasn't aware that the thread was updated for the SG changes.
Another question: The datasheet shows a 0.10uF paralled with a 470uF for the power decoupling caps. The 470uF was implemented by you and was said to benefit. The 0.10uF ceramic was said to cause ringing and was asked to be removed. Would it maybe benefit if the 0.10uF + 470uF were soldered at the appropriate legs of the 7297?
After reading all of this I bought 2 of these to see what the fuss was all about, 1 to keep as standard for reference and the other to modify.
I've thrown number 1 into a alloy box with connectors and fed it with a 12V dc brick smps for starters and fired it up.
And it works!
Low dc offsets, no noise or hum.
Volume control fairly well balanced and listening to it now playing a CD of Julia Fordham's Concrete Love.
And it's great!
Not because of the little it cost either. (£6.00 the pair delivered!)
Whether after long term listening I'll still think the same, who knows but at the moment I'm a happy chappie and in no rush to modify the other board at all.
If anybody is interested I'll report more later.
I've thrown number 1 into a alloy box with connectors and fed it with a 12V dc brick smps for starters and fired it up.
And it works!
Low dc offsets, no noise or hum.
Volume control fairly well balanced and listening to it now playing a CD of Julia Fordham's Concrete Love.
And it's great!
Not because of the little it cost either. (£6.00 the pair delivered!)
Whether after long term listening I'll still think the same, who knows but at the moment I'm a happy chappie and in no rush to modify the other board at all.
If anybody is interested I'll report more later.
Damn.
The other board was damaged when it arrived, the heatsink & chip were bent over at an angle and when powered up it is noisy as hell with lots of buzzing and random pops although there's is music playing.
Guess you can't expect too much for £6.00.
Dropped the seller an email but not holding out any great hopes.
That's my reference gone to judge mods by so back to the original board for now I suppose!
I've had she who must be obeyed give the working board a listen with the youngest son and they both agreed that the level of sound quality was astounding.
The other board was damaged when it arrived, the heatsink & chip were bent over at an angle and when powered up it is noisy as hell with lots of buzzing and random pops although there's is music playing.
Guess you can't expect too much for £6.00.
Dropped the seller an email but not holding out any great hopes.
That's my reference gone to judge mods by so back to the original board for now I suppose!
I've had she who must be obeyed give the working board a listen with the youngest son and they both agreed that the level of sound quality was astounding.
It's the same as my failed IndieGoGo kit that was overly modestly priced. The chassis has Panoma copper binding posts (and copper nuts for tattoo guns), neutrik RCA, ordinary 12x3 construction quality powercord. It's unique in many ways, but it doesn't have V-caps or anything absurd.
The stock amp can't achieve the quality for many reasons. A big one my guide addressed in the most recent form was the incorrect ground paths overlapping. Getting the grounding right is huge. The amp does respond well to good input capacitors. And the power coming in, like other chipamps, is a focus point due to its lack of inherent noise rejection as a chip.
I couldn't tell you if the chips from China can sound as good, since I never could get one to not blow up at 18v like mine is regulated at. In fact I let one play at 23v for a week and it was nice! However that may eventually ruin a chip.