The Phonoclone and VSPS PCB Help Desk

[WntrMute2]

Does anyone have a couple of these: Russian K73-16 PETP they want to part with? All the ebay suppliers seem to takes weeks and weeks to deliver them to the US. I am going to try the Multicaps but I wanted to try the Russian ones too.

 

[Mr Onion]

My K73-16 PETP's took about a month to arrive in the UK, and would probably take the same again if I posted my spares off to you.

IMHO you would be just as well ordering direct from the source.

 

[fatuncle]

source or subsitute for GBPC 602-E4/51GI-ND

Hello Im new here, I just ordered the VSPS kit from Richard and I am planning on building the standard power supply as shown in his Construction Guide. I am looking for an alternative source for the GBPC 602-E4/51GI-ND Bridge Rectifiers since Mouser and Digikey seem to be out of stock. Or is there a suitable substitute that i can use?

Also does anyone have a photo of how they have executed the build? since I am new to this sort of thing Photos are very helpful. I have been scouring this forum for the last few days and I have not come across any photos of the power supply.

Thanks

 

[WntrMute2]

Hello Im new here, I just ordered the VSPS kit from Richard and I am planning on building the standard power supply as shown in his Construction Guide. I am looking for an alternative source for the GBPC 602-E4/51GI-ND Bridge Rectifiers since Mouser and Digikey seem to be out of stock. Or is there a suitable substitute that i can use?

Also does anyone have a photo of how they have executed the build? since I am new to this sort of thing Photos are very helpful. I have been scouring this forum for the last few days and I have not come across any photos of the power supply.

Thanks

Check out my power supply. Post 1637 & 1638. Page 164.

 

[rjm]

As for the rectifiers, almost anything will do. Try this.

I may have to update the BOM as perhaps the old part has been discontinued or made non-stock.

 

[WntrMute2]

GBPC5010-G Comchip Technology | 641-1383-ND | DigiKey

I used these as I wanted a guick connect type connection.

 

[fatuncle]

Thank you all, this is a big help

 

[fatuncle]

Does this look Correct ?

First time building a power supply. Any comments or advice are welcomed.

 

[rjm]

Not bad. The rectifiers have mounting holes, so you could have bolted them directly to the chassis rather than used the perf board. Other than that, pretty standard.

But:

I feel obliged to order you to immediately cover all the exposed terminals with either line live or line neutral voltages applied to them with electrical tape or, preferably, heat shrink. I mean at the IEC socket and fuse. Leaving them exposed like that is a big no-no: as well as making you look like a complete noob it also runs the very real risk of turning you into a dead noob.

 

[rjm]

And at the switch. Yikes. Quite the little death trap you have going on there.

As much as possible I would keep the primary and secondary wires in opposite sides of the chassis to avoid noise coupling.

 

[fatuncle]

Does this look any Better?

Please be brutally honest It is the only way I will learn.

 

[rjm]

Very good, I feel safer from here.

If you want to be fully up to code, you need to add a serrated washer at the earth, between the bolt head and the chassis.

The only other thing I might suggest is moving the red wire connecting from fuse to switch to the other side of the case away from the output wires.

 

[Carlp]

Very good, I feel safer from here.

If you want to be fully up to code, you need to add a serrated washer at the earth, between the bolt head and the chassis.

The only other thing I might suggest is moving the red wire connecting from fuse to switch to the other side of the case away from the output wires.

If possible, I'd even suggest swapping the switch and the outlet so that all of the raw AC supply stays on one side (side that the mains input is on) and the rectified output is on the other side. So you'd move the red wire as Richard suggests, but also have the switch on the same side. That helps avoid any coupling of the raw AC signal and the output, not that at this point in the circuit there'd be a BIG improvement, but it's good practice.

 

[naimless]

I use 2.2 uF 63 V LOT OF 2 RUSSIAN PETP AUDIO CAPACITORS K73-16 ?73-16 | eBay Bargain price, and fantastic sound.

Hi Mr onion,

The Russian capacitor looks interesting, can you describe the characteristic of the sound ?

I am using obligato gold at the moment, great cap, the sound is not analytical but very balance, wondering if I could put it to another level

Regards

 

[Mr Onion]

Hmmm, its been a while since I changed them over, and my memory being rubbish, its hard to say.

Smoother than the BoM, more detail (in a good way) even handed over all frequencies.

Put it this way, I have finished tinkering with the PC3, and the only way I think I will get any improvement is to get a Urika inside my LP12

 

[andykap]

After reading the thread, I am still uncertain if is it necessary to add any capacitor to the VSPS to use AD797 or BB627/637 opamp?

 

[rjm]

Almost certainly yes.

A still better question is "why would anyone want to use the AD797 or OPA627/637 with the VSPS?"

 

[vulejov]

I use AD797 in VSPS without adding any capacitors, 63dB gain version for MC posted earlier..

Anyone with a basic knowledge of electronics would be clear that AD797 playing much better than OPA27..

 

[rjm]

I was thinking of the normal use as a sub 40dB MM stage.

Given your experience though, perhaps you can answer his question re. bypass caps?

 

[vulejov]

I use an old board, power supply with LM317/337 is more than good enough..

Instead of electrolytes, for C6-C7 use 1uF Wima MKS.. they are close to opamp and there is no oscillation, so there was no need to parallel it with faster ceramic..