Vout +/- voltages, diode near relay voltage, relay clicks? DC offset on both audio outputs, do all 4 audio path JFETs warm up?
Vout -9.2V and 9.8V.
diode near relay voltage is 0.173V.
relay trun on about 6-7 second.
DC offset R -2.6mV , L -2.0mV
4 audio path JFETs,two JFETs near relay about 36C. other is 33C.
sorry my mistake ,I dont power on.diode voltage is wrong, does LM7812 output 12V?
diode voltage about 6V after power on.
OK ,I'm do this.What voltage is correct of diode ?Change 7812 first and put a small sink on it. There are a lot of thin tab LM in the market lately which may have smaller chip inside also that I am afraid they current limit or fail easier than we knew.
I find one thing ,input diode voltage is 0V ,is right?
If you mean bridge diodes, no its not right, there must be voltage drop 0.6-1V DC on each. When the 7812 output to ground is about 12V the voltage across the relay reverse protection diode should be about 1.5V-2V less.
I change a 7812 ,diode voltage is 6.3V..
Where is 7812 input and output??What is the 7812 input and output voltage? Did you put a small sink on it also? If you have another pair K170 replace the two signal ones in the bad channel also.
I change a new 7812 in here.
Hot to the finger touch?
It have heatsink ,tem above 36-38c.
It's ok,I have measurement it.Alright. Relay clicks steadily?
About 6-7sconds after power on.
I started my build of the Hypnotize and wanted to put up the WIP picture for critique, corrections of errors I may have made as a noob, and to get some clarifications from the knowledgeable and helpful folks here.
Full-sized picture available here too.
I have followed mainly wushuliu's excellent tutorial. I hope I have got it right thus far.
Pending components to populate:
1) IRFP240/9240
2) MUR820
3) MUR120
4) jumper J3
5) 4700 uF caps
6) hot rod resistors
7) In/Out terminal blocks
Kindly help with some questions I have:
1) in the kit (from Teabag), there was no MUR820, but I received four F06U20S. Is this interchangeable with the MUR820s?
2) the AC input terminal block is marked "03 02 01". What voltage do these numbers/positions correspond to? Is it 15V-0-15V? I plan to use a 130 VA toroidal (15V-0-15V, IIRC. Already purchased).
3) at the bottom right of the board there is marked "2 x 600" below which there is "NOTE". What do these two markings mean?
4) There is a Vout marked "10 20 30". Do I need to wire this to anything? Or is it there to be tapped for powering some external device? Is this Vout fixed or can be varied to suit a range of voltages?
5) I fully intend to hot rod it to 600 mA. I have received 5 and 10 Ohms Dales as part of the kit. I understand I need to parallel these two to get 600 mA-ish current. However, I want to start at 60 mA then go up slowly, then onto 200mA before full bore 600mA. What are the correct resistors for 60mA and 200mA (with wattage ratings, please)? I have a pair of fairly hefty heatsinks which I bought for a stillborn MyRef Rev C amp project. I am hoping this heatsink will suffice for 600mA.
6) I keep reading on this thread that the voltage across the LED banks must be 9.xx Volts. What is the significance of this value? Do they need to be symmetric, or nearly so? Across what points does one measure this voltage? How does this translate to the final mA? FWIW, I have read through the first 28 pages of this thread but there are nearly 120 more to go through. A Herculean task, if there's one
7) What is the correct procedure for checking the offset DC voltages after completing the build?
I have some more doubts, but I guess that can come as I make some more progress.
Thanks in advance.
Full-sized picture available here too.
I have followed mainly wushuliu's excellent tutorial. I hope I have got it right thus far.
Pending components to populate:
1) IRFP240/9240
2) MUR820
3) MUR120
4) jumper J3
5) 4700 uF caps
6) hot rod resistors
7) In/Out terminal blocks
Kindly help with some questions I have:
1) in the kit (from Teabag), there was no MUR820, but I received four F06U20S. Is this interchangeable with the MUR820s?
2) the AC input terminal block is marked "03 02 01". What voltage do these numbers/positions correspond to? Is it 15V-0-15V? I plan to use a 130 VA toroidal (15V-0-15V, IIRC. Already purchased).
3) at the bottom right of the board there is marked "2 x 600" below which there is "NOTE". What do these two markings mean?
4) There is a Vout marked "10 20 30". Do I need to wire this to anything? Or is it there to be tapped for powering some external device? Is this Vout fixed or can be varied to suit a range of voltages?
5) I fully intend to hot rod it to 600 mA. I have received 5 and 10 Ohms Dales as part of the kit. I understand I need to parallel these two to get 600 mA-ish current. However, I want to start at 60 mA then go up slowly, then onto 200mA before full bore 600mA. What are the correct resistors for 60mA and 200mA (with wattage ratings, please)? I have a pair of fairly hefty heatsinks which I bought for a stillborn MyRef Rev C amp project. I am hoping this heatsink will suffice for 600mA.
6) I keep reading on this thread that the voltage across the LED banks must be 9.xx Volts. What is the significance of this value? Do they need to be symmetric, or nearly so? Across what points does one measure this voltage? How does this translate to the final mA? FWIW, I have read through the first 28 pages of this thread but there are nearly 120 more to go through. A Herculean task, if there's one
7) What is the correct procedure for checking the offset DC voltages after completing the build?
I have some more doubts, but I guess that can come as I make some more progress.
Thanks in advance.
1. Ultrafast + Soft Recovery Fairchild alternatives. Looking very good.
2. 01 02 03 correspond to 15-0-15 VAC terminal points.
3. When using 12V relay just put a jumper across one of those two resistor marks. Any of the two. (Resistors there only for the now rare 5V relay users that they were common in the past).
4. Those points are connected to the +10 0 -10V DC regulated output rails (fixed). Most users use them only to measure the rails bcs they avoid to drive further subsystems in case of subjective interactions, or just not to unbalance the symmetrical consumption of the main circuit regulators. But some others use them to feed some chip regulator for a subsystem. Don't exceed 50% current draw of any CCS decided setting.
5. 47//47 Ohm, 10 Ohm, as printed on the board itself. In 0.6A level the dissipation will be 12W constant per rail MOSFET pair. Also better use a small sink on the LM7812.
6. DCB1 Hypnotize tends to well symmetrical rails. 9.5-10.5V range results very close for +/-are usual. The significance is subjective, I found the system preferable at 10V or close when I originally developed it. It does not relate to current. Points to probe for DVM are the mentioned 10 20 30 (20=GND). You need read no more than we discussed now for technical reasons, just for fun.
7. You set DCmV range on the meter and you measure between R GND and L GND on the audio output connector points.
Good luck.
2. 01 02 03 correspond to 15-0-15 VAC terminal points.
3. When using 12V relay just put a jumper across one of those two resistor marks. Any of the two. (Resistors there only for the now rare 5V relay users that they were common in the past).
4. Those points are connected to the +10 0 -10V DC regulated output rails (fixed). Most users use them only to measure the rails bcs they avoid to drive further subsystems in case of subjective interactions, or just not to unbalance the symmetrical consumption of the main circuit regulators. But some others use them to feed some chip regulator for a subsystem. Don't exceed 50% current draw of any CCS decided setting.
5. 47//47 Ohm, 10 Ohm, as printed on the board itself. In 0.6A level the dissipation will be 12W constant per rail MOSFET pair. Also better use a small sink on the LM7812.
6. DCB1 Hypnotize tends to well symmetrical rails. 9.5-10.5V range results very close for +/-are usual. The significance is subjective, I found the system preferable at 10V or close when I originally developed it. It does not relate to current. Points to probe for DVM are the mentioned 10 20 30 (20=GND). You need read no more than we discussed now for technical reasons, just for fun.
7. You set DCmV range on the meter and you measure between R GND and L GND on the audio output connector points.
Good luck.
salas I'm report.
I'm change new relay , the diode 7.23V.
The 7812 is 18V.
What happen is it?
A small difference in relay consumption current.
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