Depends on what you mean by 'structurally better'. There is a reason why the MA frames are designed the way they are: they dissipate a large amount of energy while maintaining the necessary stiffness. Re more mounting holes, you will note where the existing ones are located.
All of this is something of a moot point however: since the vast majority of users don't have any problems, the existing design evidently does the job required of it. QED. That is your preferred criteria re the former, but it is not an invariable rule. It depends on what it is for. Hence the trade-offs.
OK, I'll try to clarify. This is not 'distortion' I'm talking about. Mark can explain better if asked politely and he's feeling up to it. He's not a well man remember, and is the only driver manufacturer who engages with people on the forum + tries to incorporate feedback into new models. Something to think about.
Anyway. You feed a cone / powertrain (in MA parlance) with a musical signal; this is complex, not a steady-state single tone. Your object is to cause resonance of the cone. That's how wideband drivers work. But if the cone has a high degree of self-damping, i.e. it's not very resonant sensitive, the lower level signals get lost. Essentially, it's a bit like saying you've a higher noise-floor. This is what Dave P10 often refers to as DDR (downward dynamic range), and is one reason HE systems can be more revealing (be they single or multiway types) than lower efficiency systems. A lower mass cone &c. will tend to be more resonant sensitive, i.e. those low level signals are not damped out to the same extent. The trade-off of course is that if you go too far in one direction or the other, you end up with all sorts of other problems. Like anything else, it's a balancing act.
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I'll go for the epoxy glue. Currently the driver is glued in a test box. Will do the repair once it needs a new home.
I'm afraid that this is fairly basic mechanical engineering, as anyone who designs wideband drive units could tell you.
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Like CSIs, we need to follow the evidence. The damage shown is exactly what one would see when overtightening the screws/bolts. I know because we have done it. Your damage is exactly like ours. It does not take much, a 1/2 turn will do when the god's are aligned against you. Unlike a metal frame (like a Fostex) which will bend and crack the paint, the plastic bezels crack.
I used expoxy to fix the drivers.
Time to just realize you screwed up, even if you think otherwise, and move on.
dave
I used expoxy to fix the drivers.
Time to just realize you screwed up, even if you think otherwise, and move on.
dave
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Why the need for this mother father talk, but your choise.
Thanks this was what he requested, though had been said long ago.
Think it over, now once again judge out of physical range of the device has pointed out he screwed up, the other day he was flat guaranteed to be a fool over torqued screw when the request was how to repair, maybe it takes more and more time to move on. Trying to see the positive, here at least things is not deleted as never happened.
excuse me, did you say "glued" into a test box? - using only screws such as those supplied by Mark, with properly drilled pilot holes, was already discussed.
Full range drivers require cone break up modes to extend their frequency response beyond what a standard purely pistonic driver would give you. Benign resonances within a system are just regions of greater or lesser power conversion efficiency from the coil to the air. To say that you're going to 'lose' detail if a system is non resonant and otherwise, purely pistonic, is incorrect.
Light cones that resonate/breakup within their passband do not preserve details by resonating. Or from the reverse perspective, non resonant cones do not lose detail by not resonating. Resonances, by definition, create an uneven frequency response and unless completely equalised out will colour the sound. Whether or not this colouration adds to the sense of perceived detail is another thing, but to try and claim that a well damped and non resonant cone (or a highly rigid cone operating well before break up occurs), is going to some how lose precious detail is simply wrong.
If a loudspeaker, of any type, was going to 'lose' detail somewhere then it'd be present within the distortion measurements, both linear and non linear.
Thanks guys. good to know that these things tend to break, even when handled by people who know them better than anyone else, unless "the gods" are aligned with you.
Best of luck to the OP with his repairs.
@5th element: agree 100%
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Hope it's all right i think to be fair when quoting markaudio, that it's done "in haste between testing" see underneath or post #8.
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A 1/2 turn goes from snug to 'crushed'. If you aren't using a clutched driver you better have a good touch.
Yup that kinda "mispeak" sometimes happens - note my post said "I've never ", and Dave's says "we have" - which should be taken as the first person plural.
If it particularly matters a frack at this juncture, I maintain that I don't recall ever cracking a frame on a Mark Audio driver - but isn't the real point of spkr's threads on this subject to resolve the immediate issue of repairing the damage to his driver?
We may may need to refill our bladders discussing how/why it happened, but unless he is insincere about his motivation in asking the question , aren't we all doing ourselves, the forum, and Mark a disservice by carrying on such?
I know he has other things on his mind, and sorry, but I had to vent - it must be the black & garbanzo bean/kale stew. (need an emoticon for flatulence
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Agree, also can remind we not machines but humans. Regarding the glue your post #29, don't know if this link have some relation http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/260097-mount-markaudio-drivers-glue.html.
Good one 5th element, and from here can live with that exstra cost but not nessesary everyone else and sales would agree.
As i understand the material is choosen for best audio, the audio freak in me like such choice. To prevent it's not tightened as people usual tighten devices that need a screw mounting, maybe a red note in the box stating the fragile and correct mounting method with info why this fragile material is choosen is for enhanced audio performance. A complete speaker where driver later in it's life need to be dismantled and remounted by inexperienced users though would benefit the suggested metal insert/bushing, so they don't tighten as usual for devices with screw mounting.
As i understand the material is choosen for best audio, the audio freak in me like such choice. To prevent it's not tightened as people usual tighten devices that need a screw mounting, maybe a red note in the box stating the fragile and correct mounting method with info why this fragile material is choosen is for enhanced audio performance. A complete speaker where driver later in it's life need to be dismantled and remounted by inexperienced users though would benefit the suggested metal insert/bushing, so they don't tighten as usual for devices with screw mounting.
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