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You are correct, these are the Dayton Audio RS75-4 3" Reference Full-Range drivers,
part # 295-38:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs75-4-3-reference-full-range-driver-4-ohm--295-380
The boxes are 10"x5"x5", so 250"^3, tight but nowhere near sealed. No port whatsoever at this point, just experimenting with boxes I had on-hand.
My cardboard box comes out to 0.145 ft.³. The Parts Express spec sheet recommends 0.02 ft.³ sealed, 0.04 ft.³ vented... their recommendation seems awfully small, 0.04 ft.³ is 75"^3.
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250"^3, according to this, comes out to 0.145'^3 (rounded):
Cubic Inches to Cubic Feet conversion
Am I missing something?
Will do that after I put in a small port tube and secure the speakers with self-tapping screws (they're held in by friction at this point, cut the holes perfectly snug).
No, a T/S max flat alignment [the default reference for decades now] can vary a little from program to program depending on whose version of the math is used, but it wouldn't be anywhere near this far off, i.e. the early math I use calculates a ~2.731 L/0.096 ft^3 cab tuned to 82.16 Hz.
Both the 0.02, 0.04 ft^3 are ~spot on for a stuffed and lightly damped sealed cab respectively.
GM
Both the 0.02, 0.04 ft^3 are ~spot on for a stuffed and lightly damped sealed cab respectively.
GM
I suppose installing 64 discrete speakers throughout my living room may require a bit of a miracle in the WAF qualification. But if I were to do so, these little Dayton Audio drivers would not be a bad choice.
How about some small icecream tubs, maybe 1.5 liters. You can pick up a cheap automotive fiberglass kit that includes the tape, resin, etc. Fiberglass the buckets to add rigidity. Maybe mix some sand and glue and line the inside for weight. A spray can of black truck bed liner should tiddy them right up.
We did this with small subwoofers in various size buckets to be mounted in the rear decks of cars a while back.. works surprisingly well for what it is.
We did this with small subwoofers in various size buckets to be mounted in the rear decks of cars a while back.. works surprisingly well for what it is.
Rob, you just need four (or even just two) additional small overhead speakers (ceiling), and a new receiver with a Dolby Atmos decoder. ...That's all.
* They're coming this fall, for consumers @ home. ...The new AV receivers (some affordable ones too). ...And also Blu-ray movies with Dolby Atmos encoded.
* They're coming this fall, for consumers @ home. ...The new AV receivers (some affordable ones too). ...And also Blu-ray movies with Dolby Atmos encoded.
Now that is exciting! Due for a new receiver anyway as the AVR-254 suddenly stopped recognizing HDMI inputs half the time. Had to move the Marantz AVR-5003 to the living room just to watch Star Wars with the spawn.
A pair of good flush-mount ceiling speakers should have medium WAF.
But still, it would be a kick to map out a quality surround setup built entirely from cardboard and good elements that could be done for pocket change. Looks like I'll need some more X-acto knives...
Truth be told, for the recent experimenting with the Dayton elements, I no longer have them set up as rear surrounds; they are connected as main speakers to a T-class amp, getting signal from a PC running XBMC... a little desktop theater that lets me run all sorts of source material. Have them on an Adcome GFS-6 speaker selector so I can A/B with some other monitors that I have around.
The rear surround issue has been solved with a Dayton Audio Sub-Link XR 2.4 GHz Wireless Audio Transmitter, much better than the Dayton unit with integrated amplifier. The new unit is full range despite being labeled "sub-link" and has been completely free of the occasional pops from interference that the amplified unit suffered. It's connected to an Adcom GFA-535 amplifier driving a pair of Boston HD-8 (which still sound fantastic by any measurement).
Actually, to cover all music genres it’s best overall to let the woofer handle the < ~500 Hz BW since large orchestras, symphonies peak in the 250-500 Hz BW. Omit these and it still needs to be up around 300 Hz where most rock, etc. concert sound level power requirements begin rolling off.
Of course if these are relatively low peak SPL apps where small drivers never exceed ~1/4 of their rated music power, then much lower XO points can be used.
For HT, it’s 80-120 Hz normally.
Note too that while THX, DD, DTS reference specs ‘full-range’ surrounds, the reality is that for consumers most recordings are limited to 80-100 Hz AFAIK due to the demands of the marketplace, so while they need to be set to ‘small’ they don’t add any signal to the LFE’s output.
GM
Of course if these are relatively low peak SPL apps where small drivers never exceed ~1/4 of their rated music power, then much lower XO points can be used.
For HT, it’s 80-120 Hz normally.
Note too that while THX, DD, DTS reference specs ‘full-range’ surrounds, the reality is that for consumers most recordings are limited to 80-100 Hz AFAIK due to the demands of the marketplace, so while they need to be set to ‘small’ they don’t add any signal to the LFE’s output.
GM
Rob, only for your eyes & ears (for your general information purpose only) ::
{* James Bond, double 07 - For Your Ears Only
}
1. Dolby Atmos: Coming soon to a living room near you - Dolby - Lab Notes
2. Turn your Home into a Home Theater | Pioneer Electronics USA
{* James Bond, double 07 - For Your Ears Only
}1. Dolby Atmos: Coming soon to a living room near you - Dolby - Lab Notes
2. Turn your Home into a Home Theater | Pioneer Electronics USA
Rob, only for your eyes & ears (for your general information purpose only) ::
{* James Bond, double 07 - For Your Ears Only
1. Dolby Atmos: Coming soon to a living room near you - Dolby - Lab Notes
2. Turn your Home into a Home Theater | Pioneer Electronics USA
LOL!
That's some great stuff. The Atmos-enabled speaker idea is interesting, an upward-firing driver that I assume would have a time delay to match the reflection distance. Not as optimized as downward-firing, but certainly more attainable without carpentry. Can't wait to see the DIY designs for home builds.
Lol, the diyourservers overhead speakers (coaxial monopoles @ your ceiling are best - flat ceiling, not arched).
...God lock, with the right decoding in your processing machine.
* Andrew Jones designed some Dolby Atmos speakers for Pioneer electronics.
<<>> We are entering a new "elevated" era in the world of movie sound. It looks/sounds objectively satisfying (sensory hearing), and "illuminati" heightening.
...God lock, with the right decoding in your processing machine.
* Andrew Jones designed some Dolby Atmos speakers for Pioneer electronics.
<<>> We are entering a new "elevated" era in the world of movie sound. It looks/sounds objectively satisfying (sensory hearing), and "illuminati" heightening.
My personal taste, I'd prefer to do a "found object" kind of housing, like the drive-in theater speaker housings I used for my office desktop:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...r-speakers-converted-desktop-pc-speakers.html
What I'd use for a small subwoofer housing... the search begins.
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