Ahoy everyone,
I'm currently planning a set of 2-way speakers and i'm wondering which drivers is better between the ones that i have selected so far.
I have an 8" Aurum Cantus AC-200MKII in my list ( i have heard good things about Aurum Cantus)
And the other one is a Dayton Audio DS215-8 8".
Now does anyone know if Dayton Audio drivers have a good rep in design and sound quality?
I chose these 2 because they have a decent 90db sensitivity that i would like to couple with tweeters within the same power range and sensitivity range.
Any suggestion/comment is welcome.
I just started the journey in DIY speaker building a few weeks ago so, Feel free to tell me if my train is already off the tracks.
I'm currently planning a set of 2-way speakers and i'm wondering which drivers is better between the ones that i have selected so far.
I have an 8" Aurum Cantus AC-200MKII in my list ( i have heard good things about Aurum Cantus)
And the other one is a Dayton Audio DS215-8 8".
Now does anyone know if Dayton Audio drivers have a good rep in design and sound quality?
I chose these 2 because they have a decent 90db sensitivity that i would like to couple with tweeters within the same power range and sensitivity range.
Any suggestion/comment is welcome.
I just started the journey in DIY speaker building a few weeks ago so, Feel free to tell me if my train is already off the tracks.
Last edited:
I just started the journey in DIY speaker building a few weeks ago so, Feel free to tell me if my train is already off the tracks.
I can promisse you a very long journey
Are you prepared for an easier journey, in many ways and not in some others?
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 1
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 2
Bi-amping isn't a magic bullet but it does solve many problems inherent in a passive crossover, and the cost is not substantially different. Since I converted my two ways to active and then to three way active, I would not consider a return to passive.
As well, you could ditch analog and use a digital feed direct from your music source and use a miniDIGI/DSP combo - infinite adjustment at your fingertips. Unless there is a substantial portion of masochist in you, one path makes an excellent outcome with far less pain.
Abs
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 1
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 2
Bi-amping isn't a magic bullet but it does solve many problems inherent in a passive crossover, and the cost is not substantially different. Since I converted my two ways to active and then to three way active, I would not consider a return to passive.
As well, you could ditch analog and use a digital feed direct from your music source and use a miniDIGI/DSP combo - infinite adjustment at your fingertips. Unless there is a substantial portion of masochist in you, one path makes an excellent outcome with far less pain.
Abs
This is quite an enlightening read! In all my time around various sound system setups, i never even considered this a possibility.
Thanks for the links!
Ahoy everyone,
I'm currently planning a set of 2-way speakers and i'm wondering which drivers is better between the ones that i have selected so far.
I have an 8" Aurum Cantus AC-200MKII in my list ( i have heard good things about Aurum Cantus)
And the other one is a Dayton Audio DS215-8 8".
Now does anyone know if Dayton Audio drivers have a good rep in design and sound quality?
I chose these 2 because they have a decent 90db sensitivity that i would like to couple with tweeters within the same power range and sensitivity range.
Any suggestion/comment is welcome.
I just started the journey in DIY speaker building a few weeks ago so, Feel free to tell me if my train is already off the tracks.
Can i suggest the SEAS Excel W22NY001 ? it also has 90db sensivity.
Hmmm i missed that one.. I don't remember seeing it at the Madisound site. I'll go check it out. Thanks for the suggestion
Ahoy everyone,
I just started the journey in DIY speaker building a few weeks ago so, Feel free to tell me if my train is already off the tracks.
I started my journey 30 years ago.......
Are you locked in to using an 8" woofer?
I think it would be easier to use a good 5-7" mid-woofer for you 2-way. There are a lot of bass capable mid-woofers available out there.
Regards
/Göran
I started my journey 30 years ago.......
Are you locked in to using an 8" woofer?
I think it would be easier to use a good 5-7" mid-woofer for you 2-way. There are a lot of bass capable mid-woofers available out there.
Regards
/Göran
30 years?
i feel even smaller in my experience..As for the woofers, i'm not locked in completely in the 8" size but i figured it would be a nice size for a good bass Low-Mid driver.
I have been looking into a few 6.5 inchers like the Aurum Cantus AC-165. It delivers pretty good frequency ranges, an 89db sensitivity and the construction looks solid as well. Power handling is a bit low however. I'm looking for something more in the 80-120 w range. (150 is the up maximum)
It would be much easier to go with a 5-7" as gornir said. A good two way with an 8" isn't easy to pull off. It requires using both drivers at the extremes of their usable frequency ranges, often with the further you push them equalling better end results. Push them too far however and things start to deteriorate. It really is a balancing act in not taking the 8" too high, but not taking the tweeter too low.
As 454Casull said, using a waveguide on the tweeter will help a lot with most of the 8" two way problems, but they introduce other design difficulties of their own and generally aren't for the inexperienced.
If you go with a high quality smaller driver and a robust tweeter, you will end up with a wide region of overlap between the two drivers that will give you a lot more freedom in designing the xover.
I would also recommend using a small neo tweeter if possible as this will allow you to keep the distance between the drivers lower and will also aid in giving you more flexibility with regards to prospective crossover points.
It'd be hard to go wrong with
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...8&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
for the tweeter. It has a flat response and can be used with low xover points without difficulty. Not only this but it mates well with waveguides if you're interested in going that route.
If you can go for a 6-7" driver then I'd recommend these.
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...2&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...8&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...9&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
As they all offer non resonant cones, good quality motors and aren't madly expensive. The last thing you want to do is spend a fortune on drivers for your first project, but you also want to spend enough so that you end up with drivers that are more forgiving of rookie mistakes.
As 454Casull said, using a waveguide on the tweeter will help a lot with most of the 8" two way problems, but they introduce other design difficulties of their own and generally aren't for the inexperienced.
If you go with a high quality smaller driver and a robust tweeter, you will end up with a wide region of overlap between the two drivers that will give you a lot more freedom in designing the xover.
I would also recommend using a small neo tweeter if possible as this will allow you to keep the distance between the drivers lower and will also aid in giving you more flexibility with regards to prospective crossover points.
It'd be hard to go wrong with
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...8&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
for the tweeter. It has a flat response and can be used with low xover points without difficulty. Not only this but it mates well with waveguides if you're interested in going that route.
If you can go for a 6-7" driver then I'd recommend these.
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...2&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...8&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?...9&niveau1=&niveau2=&niveau3=&s1=2&s2=&s3=&s4=
As they all offer non resonant cones, good quality motors and aren't madly expensive. The last thing you want to do is spend a fortune on drivers for your first project, but you also want to spend enough so that you end up with drivers that are more forgiving of rookie mistakes.
@5th Element : Thanks for the heads up, that tweeter has nice specs indeed. I'll look into the drivers a little later.
In the mean time i also found this one here : Aurum Cantus AC180/50C2C 7". 90db sensitivity, 35-5000hz range, 150w power handling. Looks good on the spec sheet.
I think one of the problems i have right now, i don't really know the manufacturers reputations in the audio world for their products. So it's difficult to look at something and be sure it's the right or wrong choice.
A big help would probably be a small list of manufacturers proven for quality and durability. Or maybe i'm just trying to dig too deep too early.
In the mean time i also found this one here : Aurum Cantus AC180/50C2C 7". 90db sensitivity, 35-5000hz range, 150w power handling. Looks good on the spec sheet.
I think one of the problems i have right now, i don't really know the manufacturers reputations in the audio world for their products. So it's difficult to look at something and be sure it's the right or wrong choice.
A big help would probably be a small list of manufacturers proven for quality and durability. Or maybe i'm just trying to dig too deep too early.
The inexperienced part I refer to is ones skill in being able to take good repeatable measurements and being able to design a good xover and in knowing what a good xover is all about. Not necessarily with the implementation of said xover. If you can do the first bits, then building an xover that works is easy enough be it passive or active, analogue or digital.
It's probably decent enough, but the manufactures frequency response for it is a bit of a trainwreck.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's not just their reputation but the product ranges that the manufactures have. Some drivers give you a lot of bang for you buck, others give you a bit more for a lot more outlay. Some cost a little bit less than the large bang for buck driver, but give you comparatively a lot less for that little bit less. Of course this all depends on how you view things and what you consider a good deal to be.
One thing to remember is that an excellent crossover with mediocre drivers will sound pleasing. A rubbish crossover with excellent drivers will sound like rubbish. Until you can make good xovers it is pointless, imo, in spending big bucks on the ridiculous boutique drivers.
More than anything else, I think newbies are misguided about driver power requirements. If you are working with a 90dB sensitivity driver, that means that it will play 90dB at 1 m with 1 watt. One watt! With a driver like that, you'll get over 100dB with just 16W. That's LOUD.
And it will help you to also take xmax into consideration. With that AC driver for example, xmax is going to reach its limits with frequencies below about 70Hz at about 50W. So that's about your clean output limit which is about 106dB 1W/1m. How loud exactly do you need these things? (Btw, you can get all this info yourself with a box sim program.)
Now I suspect that AC driver might be a good one, but the trouble with Aurum Cantus is that they are known for being off in their specs and graphs. Which means if you want to use it, you really need to measure all the parameters yourself before designing your box and xo's. That is the best route for any speaker anyways but one that is beyond most newbies' capabilities. That's 1 reason a proven build is usually recommended as a 1st step into the hobby. But good speakers can be build with just the simulation software available today but you are rolling the dice just a little bit. Going with reputable manufacturers helps. The recommendations above for Dayton, SB Acoustics and Peerless are excellent ones. But there are many others as well. But your best chance of success with simulations is to choose drivers that have already been measured by a reputable 3rd party and to use those. And your best bet for that is at Zaph|Audio. See his driver tests and his blog. And learn how to read the harmonic distortion and the cone resonance charts (CSD). Those are excellent objective data to use in the driver selection process.
And it will help you to also take xmax into consideration. With that AC driver for example, xmax is going to reach its limits with frequencies below about 70Hz at about 50W. So that's about your clean output limit which is about 106dB 1W/1m. How loud exactly do you need these things? (Btw, you can get all this info yourself with a box sim program.)
Now I suspect that AC driver might be a good one, but the trouble with Aurum Cantus is that they are known for being off in their specs and graphs. Which means if you want to use it, you really need to measure all the parameters yourself before designing your box and xo's. That is the best route for any speaker anyways but one that is beyond most newbies' capabilities. That's 1 reason a proven build is usually recommended as a 1st step into the hobby. But good speakers can be build with just the simulation software available today but you are rolling the dice just a little bit. Going with reputable manufacturers helps. The recommendations above for Dayton, SB Acoustics and Peerless are excellent ones. But there are many others as well. But your best chance of success with simulations is to choose drivers that have already been measured by a reputable 3rd party and to use those. And your best bet for that is at Zaph|Audio. See his driver tests and his blog. And learn how to read the harmonic distortion and the cone resonance charts (CSD). Those are excellent objective data to use in the driver selection process.
Well i'm a pretty loud listener (Didn't figure 90db sensitivity might be that loud though
). I also do a lot of audio editing/mixing so i'm used to listening pretty loud and in detail to hear the final result of what i'm working with (Music edits, mixes, etc). Same goes for sound on video edits.But i do understand what you're bringing to my attention and i can see that i do need a more in depth knowledge base before putting together the final project on paper.
I looked into some books on the subject, i think they will be a big help.
And what kind of simulation software are out there?
Ahoy everyone,
I'm currently planning a set of 2-way speakers and i'm wondering which drivers is better between the ones that i have selected so far.
I have an 8" Aurum Cantus AC-200MKII in my list ( i have heard good things about Aurum Cantus)
And the other one is a Dayton Audio DS215-8 8".
Now does anyone know if Dayton Audio drivers have a good rep in design and sound quality?
I chose these 2 because they have a decent 90db sensitivity that i would like to couple with tweeters within the same power range and sensitivity range.
Any suggestion/comment is welcome.
I just started the journey in DIY speaker building a few weeks ago so, Feel free to tell me if my train is already off the tracks.
I like the cantus, But I would NOT use a big driver like a 8 in a two way speaker. smaller driver will sound better on the midrange area. Do not go over 6 1/2. and if you like a lot of bass...just get a subwoofer.
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