Simplistic NJFET RIAA

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
...No, 56VA apparently. Problem is they jump from 28V CT model to 36V CT model with no option in-between. The 115VAC wall nominal hovering over 120VAC in many cities forms part of the excess vs expected nonetheless. 33VAC nominal model in same series should have been more compatible to our purposes.
 

Attachments

  • 187E_info.pdf
    87.4 KB · Views: 71
Thanks Salas. I did have a quick test with my other rig but too brief to make any comment. I have been playing with my vintage rig and it is very good. There is plenty of bass and top end is silky. I have settled with loading of 220R with my modded denon 103(uwe body/ESC retipped).
Quan

Hi quan.

Haha, easy to get distracted for a while... Do you mind sharing what you are using at C3?

Regards
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Some good option for US and Canada lower internal market freight charges, no customs, spec stated at a more real life 120VAC primary. It should put out ~33VAC in our low 0.1A per rail draw. Can drive two raw PSU as a single unit since it has two independent secondaries, has both static and magnetic shielding. AS-1232 - 100VA 32V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
 
So, RIAA, R1/14, R5/7 are the ones to target? I have the welwyns for now in R1/14 and as a 220R alternative for RIAA. Waiting for Charcroft Z-foils and miniohms.
But as I'm ordering miniohms now - would there be any gain to use them for R5/7? Or further down the chain?
Whatever of these will be reused in the mez :) and in other projs!

But lazy as I am, I should probably switch to my reference speakers before listening...

Regards
 
Last edited:
R5 is part of Riaa along with the more influential R14 47k while R6 is heavily shunted by R5 that dominates. You ordered the same type at least, not a bad thing.

Well, yes miniohms and velwyns but not the others. But then again - I do not have a proper C4, fiddled with C3 - obbligato 0.1 in place again, cart used less than 10h, shitty cabling in TT (waiting for renewal) and on goes the woes...

Regards
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
My Walker TT is at the surgeon's for a few days now. DC motor transplant was successful, I visited it yesterday. I asked the surgeon to perform many unholy acts like filling the 774's wand with silicone, bastardizing the counterweight, adding new perspex plinth base, drilling the plinth for motor controls etc. It already showed strong signs of better performance to be expected after full recovery. :)
 
My Walker TT is at the surgeon's for a few days now. DC motor transplant was successful, I visited it yesterday. I asked the surgeon to perform many unholy acts like filling the 774's wand with silicone, bastardizing the counterweight, adding new perspex plinth base, drilling the plinth for motor controls etc. It already showed strong signs of better performance to be expected after full recovery. :)

Now Salas, just buy an old Lenco from an unfortunate widow - they are good just at stock level. I have 3 of them, just swet... I usually buy them for 50-60€ from end users.

Regards
 
47R 2W to yet another same type 4700uF/63V cap. So you form CRC. About 100mA X 47R=4.7V loss per channel raw DC line. Put 10K 2W bleeder across that last cap too.
If it is for R input filter, I.e. in line directly after the bridges feeding the existing filter capacitor only forming RC, use 15R 2W since there will be no cap directly to the bridge to hold the full peak voltage of the rectification cycle. Thus, its less efficient. Smooths for EMI in that position too. It rounds off the sawtooth looking charge edges.

Hi Salas,
Please see attached picture and let me know if I got you right.
I'll try to use 15R 2Watt wire-wound (inductive type). Or, should I use some other resistor type?
 

Attachments

  • RC.jpg
    RC.jpg
    92.3 KB · Views: 271