Hi kffern
You mentioned rust in an earlier post. I would remove that. but if there is no rust or other oxidization, emery would only make the finish worse.
As an aside, I am retired on Social Security so I don't have much money, but I would find a way to buy the absolute best bearings I could find. The quality of the bearings can make or break a tone arm of this type. I would not buy bearings from hobby shops as these are meant for power applications i.e. motor driven race cars etc. You want ABEC 7 instrument bearings. I get mine from PIC design or Nordex.
Sincerely,
Ralf
You mentioned rust in an earlier post. I would remove that. but if there is no rust or other oxidization, emery would only make the finish worse.
As an aside, I am retired on Social Security so I don't have much money, but I would find a way to buy the absolute best bearings I could find. The quality of the bearings can make or break a tone arm of this type. I would not buy bearings from hobby shops as these are meant for power applications i.e. motor driven race cars etc. You want ABEC 7 instrument bearings. I get mine from PIC design or Nordex.
Sincerely,
Ralf
kffern & others:
Try cleaning the bearings using a small,cheap ultrasonic cleaner used for jewelry with some break cleaner and finish with circuit board cleaner. Some dust is microscopic and magnetic--just enough to cause problems.
Straight is absolutely correct--use the best bearing you can buy. I think ceramic bearing would be the best choice.
If you have a dremel tool, rig up an arbor to spin the bearing at high speed against a clean cotton cloth charged with jewelers rouge--it will put a mirror polish on steel. This should be done prior to cleaning of course.
PDRCanada:
Do a search for circuit board stand-offs--they come in all sizes and materials and use the proper size cut to the proper length to give an exact space between the bearings.
Joe
Try cleaning the bearings using a small,cheap ultrasonic cleaner used for jewelry with some break cleaner and finish with circuit board cleaner. Some dust is microscopic and magnetic--just enough to cause problems.
Straight is absolutely correct--use the best bearing you can buy. I think ceramic bearing would be the best choice.
If you have a dremel tool, rig up an arbor to spin the bearing at high speed against a clean cotton cloth charged with jewelers rouge--it will put a mirror polish on steel. This should be done prior to cleaning of course.
PDRCanada:
Do a search for circuit board stand-offs--they come in all sizes and materials and use the proper size cut to the proper length to give an exact space between the bearings.
Joe
perhaps it would be an idea to see if the arm is tracking well w/o any wiring attached ? I figure that even the slightest wiring friction can cause tracking issues ! I went to an extremely thin and flexible HF litze after some expirimenting . also try to rotate your glass rod opposed to the base , can't heart either .
good luck !
paul
good luck !
paul
All,
I washed them again in white spirit and then in alcohol. Blew them dry with a foot pump as before. They still won't track more than a few seconds.
Firstly, I'd like to put to rest the "something binding" theory.
I am using exactly the same configuration and parts which worked fairly well for over a week of playing records. All I did was remove the bearings, clean and polish and replace.
I am using M3 untapped brass standoffs, Altronics - H1355 M3 x 6mm Untapped Spacer Pk 8 which are very light and trap the inside race securely.
The bearings are very smooth and shiny now compared to before where they had bits of tarnish. I should get a new set of bearings today or tomorrow so will replace and see if it works. I also need to wait for the wire ordered from transfi to replace the mouse wire I am using now.
Hopefully these should improve things, then I'll work on getting the old bearings to work.
Regards,
kffern
I washed them again in white spirit and then in alcohol. Blew them dry with a foot pump as before. They still won't track more than a few seconds.
Firstly, I'd like to put to rest the "something binding" theory.
I am using exactly the same configuration and parts which worked fairly well for over a week of playing records. All I did was remove the bearings, clean and polish and replace.
I am using M3 untapped brass standoffs, Altronics - H1355 M3 x 6mm Untapped Spacer Pk 8 which are very light and trap the inside race securely.
The bearings are very smooth and shiny now compared to before where they had bits of tarnish. I should get a new set of bearings today or tomorrow so will replace and see if it works. I also need to wait for the wire ordered from transfi to replace the mouse wire I am using now.
Hopefully these should improve things, then I'll work on getting the old bearings to work.
Regards,
kffern
I believe that both you and the arm will be fine as soon as you put the new bearings in there . my thinking is that a supersmooth bearing edge surface will not work properly on the glass rod ( horizontal motion ). I doubt the urge for polishing the bearings given the design .
will be more than interesting to read about your findings here later ! and mouse wiring is certainly not the right thing here if you ask me .
good luck ,
paul
will be more than interesting to read about your findings here later ! and mouse wiring is certainly not the right thing here if you ask me .
good luck ,
paul
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/238027-diy-linear-tonearm-80.html#post3661834
The ony changes since this picture are the 12 mm glass rod and changed to 6mm spacers from 5 mm spacers(cut down 6mm brass unthreaded standoffs)
Again, I played a number of LPs with both configurations until I attempted the polishing.
No sign of the replacement bearings as yet so maybe another day before I do anything.
kffern
Hello PDRCanada
The "small bushing" is called the "inner ace" and the "outer ring" is called the "outer race"
My motive is not to correct you, but to share my knowledge.
Sincerely,
Ralf
The "small bushing" is called the "inner ace" and the "outer ring" is called the "outer race"
My motive is not to correct you, but to share my knowledge.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Hello kffern
Tilting the glass tube inwardly by any part of a degree is an absolute no-no. Many LPs are excentric (I don't mean the music
), even quality labels, and cause skipping on the outward part of the excentrically rotating LP. Unless you are watching the LP like a hawk you would naturally assume that the skip occurred on the inward motion of the carriage, causing you to blame the bearings. Do yourself and me a favor and level the glass tube and test again. Please do that before attaching the new bearings, otherwise you'll never know. I have a Merle Haggard LP whose center hole is 1/32" out of center, causing the headshell of my tone arm to move in and out by 1/16", the worst I have ever seen.
During normal tracking, it is the right flank of the groove that drives the stylus and during outward excentric rotation of the LP, it is the left flank of the groove that drives the stylus. I hope that I have explained that clearly?
Sincerely,
Ralf
Tilting the glass tube inwardly by any part of a degree is an absolute no-no. Many LPs are excentric (I don't mean the music
), even quality labels, and cause skipping on the outward part of the excentrically rotating LP. Unless you are watching the LP like a hawk you would naturally assume that the skip occurred on the inward motion of the carriage, causing you to blame the bearings. Do yourself and me a favor and level the glass tube and test again. Please do that before attaching the new bearings, otherwise you'll never know. I have a Merle Haggard LP whose center hole is 1/32" out of center, causing the headshell of my tone arm to move in and out by 1/16", the worst I have ever seen.During normal tracking, it is the right flank of the groove that drives the stylus and during outward excentric rotation of the LP, it is the left flank of the groove that drives the stylus. I hope that I have explained that clearly?
Sincerely,
Ralf
Straight tracker,
You are right, if it skips forward towards the label the tilt is too low, too high a tilt towards lead in groove may cause a skip as a repeat, of course this would only be induced by too light tracking or a particle in the groove and extreme eccentricities. It's the same requirements for air bearing arms, so nothing new here. Though I'm not alone in agreeing that mechanical linear arms and the mechanical grounding they provide are more ideal sonically.
First is first, the turntable must be level, then move on to the arm which must be level, as is stated, no tilt or bias towards the label, it's not required here.
Colin
You are right, if it skips forward towards the label the tilt is too low, too high a tilt towards lead in groove may cause a skip as a repeat, of course this would only be induced by too light tracking or a particle in the groove and extreme eccentricities. It's the same requirements for air bearing arms, so nothing new here. Though I'm not alone in agreeing that mechanical linear arms and the mechanical grounding they provide are more ideal sonically.
First is first, the turntable must be level, then move on to the arm which must be level, as is stated, no tilt or bias towards the label, it's not required here.
Colin
what (exactly) was the alcohol that you used. If it had any water in it, that would be left behind, and could get into the balls and races. Use new bearings, and wash in WD40 (a water dispersant), then lube with something like 3 in1 oil. Don't forget to run/break them in using an electric drill / craft drill.
I'm not sure that white spirit and some alcohols are miscible.
The C profile glass advantage we can run 2 bearings no need for 4.
I know to cut the glass tube out not easy, I'll give a try.
I think it would worth the effort if I can successful make the C profile..
After if there is a need for high quality bearings would cost half the 2 piece with the C profile glass, all do I'm not sure ceramic bearing would run smother than a good quality metal.
Just some taught..
Greetings Gabor
I know to cut the glass tube out not easy, I'll give a try.
I think it would worth the effort if I can successful make the C profile..
After if there is a need for high quality bearings would cost half the 2 piece with the C profile glass, all do I'm not sure ceramic bearing would run smother than a good quality metal.
Just some taught..
Greetings Gabor
WD40 if evaporated also leaves a nasty wax-like residue so you need to clean that as well.
