Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Could someone sanity check my LM317/LM337 reg boards please?
I've tested them quickly today, but I'm getting some strange output results around 4.5v to 6v where I'm expecting 12v, so I've obviously done something wrong somewhere....
Here's what they look like
IMG_20130514_212921.jpg


Here's Ray's 12v LM317/337 regulator schematic
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


and here's how I transposed it to make my boards
IMG_20130530_205904.jpg

Output pins for my 317 boards go 3 2 1 and for the 337, 1 2 3, I was just going to flip the 317 board around when I fit it.

Can anyone spot a mistake? :confused:
 
If you are testing them 'naked' on the workbench, you may have to add an extra output cap for the regs to work properly. Your schematic looks ok, so I'd expect the missing cap is the problem.

Ray
Thanks, that makes sense. Yes, this was a naked test, so to speak. I've gone over the schematic a few times now and I couldn't see why it should work any different.
I'll test them with a large cap across the output instead :)
 
Highlander, I noticed that you have a terminator onto the digital coax out on that player and I've read of people quoting improvements in sound from having a 75ohm terminator on the digital out if it's unused.

With my 67 I just soldered a 75ohm inside an old rca plug and plugged it in the socket. Can't say I noticed any difference but it costs nothing and doesn't do any harm, and doesn't prevent further use of the digi.

From memory, most of the positive comments I've seen for this have tended to be related to older players then the 67 (and I think 63) though.

Pete
 
I'm trying to get my player working again after a few weeks of downtime. The output suddenly went dead. I opened it up and found the output section diodes were fried. I replaced them and found my -12v reg is putting out -24v! I guess it's just failed too :-/
I'll pop a replacement in tomorrow and see what I get.
 
I'm not sure why the voltage is so high. I have a 15VAC tx driving them. That should give me +/- 19VDC, right? Even that seems high for 7x12s - I think they're rated for +/- 15. I always thought they ran hot. What voltage output transformer and output regs are people running? I'm wondering if I should replace with 7x15s.
 
After few days I was very impressed with the improvement of the player. It was much more musical and cleaner sounding. In fact I was enjoying it so much that with hesitation I opened it up again for further mods.
Yesterday I finally got to it and did this:
HDAM & OPAMPS
C611 - C614..................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v
DAC
CD04............................................removed
CD05............................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v + 47n cer.
CD06............................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v + 47n cer.
CD07............................................removed
CD15/CD16.................................Rubycon ZLG 470uF/16v
HF-amp
C504.............................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Decoder
C510/C511...................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Servo & Vref
C120.............................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
C122.............................................Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v

After this mod I dont know what to think. The sound seems a bit lifeless. Maybe it needs more time to burn-in. Does anybody know what is the minimum burn-in time for those Rubycons?

After I put the player together, the display was dead. So I opened the player again to find the cause.
I found that the brown wire of the toroid transformer, feeding the display, had broken loose. Damn thing is hard to solder back. Had to scrape the wire and set the solder station to maximum heat for the thing to get decent contact.
After this the display was working again.

Still waiting for my LM49720HA op-amp.
My fingers were itching to do some more mods. On this thread I had read about how C505 can make a big difference. So I bought 2n2 Polystyrene cap for replacement. I guessed that the yellow end is the outermost foil, so that end went at the output of the HF amp.

First impression sound wise: higher frequencies seems to be clearer, more attack and precision in the bass area.
 

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I got a CD63 today. that's my 3rd player.
Got it cheap, seller told me it always write DISC, even when one is inserted.
Of course, that's what happened when I put a disc. I tried again without disc, and with the player opened. Lens did not move. So I swapped the lens for one I have from my first player, working one, but that skip sometimes. Powered it up without disc : lens went up and down :D
So I put a disc : immediately recognized.
I push play : works.
Next track : works.
Tried to compare with that disc, once in my CD57, once in this one.
Wanted to try another disc : detected.
Play : nothing.
Try again : same thing.
Try another disc : not found, shows DISC.
Another disc : shows DISC...
without disc, I still see the lens going up & down, but obviously something else is wrong.
What should I check ?
 
It lives!

It's sounding good. I wonder how long my output stage B- was unregulated -24v :-/

I added a new PSU with separate windings for the decoder and servo control/CPU, bringing total PSUs in my player up to 7.

I also changed my grounding scheme for my regs from multiple local ground wires to a single wire running from my PSU PCBs to the star point. Far less mess.
 
Luke2Fr: it sounds to me like the laser is on its last legs and you need to get a new one. I've had my CD63KI since 1999 and I'm on my 3rd laser. It's common for some discs to stop working before others when this happens. If you also hear skipping on a disc that works, that would most likely be it.
 
Alan, I'm certain that 12v +- regs for the servos are fine. I think that's what Brent has in his recommended list iirc.
Not sure what you mean about problem with the Fuse holders, but I'll have mine apart this evening to fit Ray's DOS board, so just shout if you want any pictures or measurements :)