Why must every somewhat affordable plate amp have an unadjustable high pass filter at 150Hz?!
That seems like an all around bad design, why not put it at 80Hz where the sub would no longer be locatable?
With that crossover frequency there's only two things that can happen, neither of them good:
1)A huge frequency gap between 80 and 150 Hz (almost a whole octave)
2)An annoying transition between the mains and sub where you can tell the sound is from a different source
Dayton Audio MCA2250E 2.1 Channel Class D Amplifier 300-771
Come on Dayton... Even I can tell you thats a bad design. I wouldn't even touch it. In any circumstance. Ever.
And as a side note, adjustable sub and satellite volume but no system volume on the unit? Really people... Plus, a bass boost at 63 Hz? Lets try 50 Hz, max. Or just do away with it and give us a full system volume control instead
As far as I know, the only one I would look at in my price range (sub $200) is the xtant 2.2 Amplifier which is now out of production, I want one though. It's got both a L and R sub output with fully adjustable crossover, now we're talking. I can see two tapped horns each with an open baffle full ranger mounted on top.
Thank you for my rant...
That seems like an all around bad design, why not put it at 80Hz where the sub would no longer be locatable?
With that crossover frequency there's only two things that can happen, neither of them good:
1)A huge frequency gap between 80 and 150 Hz (almost a whole octave)
2)An annoying transition between the mains and sub where you can tell the sound is from a different source
Dayton Audio MCA2250E 2.1 Channel Class D Amplifier 300-771
Come on Dayton... Even I can tell you thats a bad design. I wouldn't even touch it. In any circumstance. Ever.
And as a side note, adjustable sub and satellite volume but no system volume on the unit? Really people... Plus, a bass boost at 63 Hz? Lets try 50 Hz, max. Or just do away with it and give us a full system volume control instead
As far as I know, the only one I would look at in my price range (sub $200) is the xtant 2.2 Amplifier which is now out of production, I want one though. It's got both a L and R sub output with fully adjustable crossover, now we're talking. I can see two tapped horns each with an open baffle full ranger mounted on top.
Thank you for my rant...
>>> You haven't a hope in hell of running a FR on an open baffle to 80Hz.
True.
Yeah but I could cross higher with one sub per side (2.2) because it wouldn't matter if it was locatable
the xtant is a car audio amplifier
Doesn't that just mean I need to find a 12v source?
Yeah but I could cross higher with one sub per side (2.2) because it wouldn't matter if it was locatable
Hi, Then 150Hz wouldn't be a problem for an ~ 30" wide open baffle, rgds, sreten.
These 2.1 plate amps are a very convenient simple way to build an active system for peanuts with both low and high pass filters, perfect for protecting those delicate metal cone full range drivers.
I've been doing some research and with help from various forums have found 3 so far,
from Dayton, Mivoc and Keiga
Dayton Audio MCA2250E 2.1 Channel Class D Amplifier - Audio Amplifiers - Audio / Video
speaker trade - mivoc - Einzelchassis - A 3120 2.1 Aktiv- Verstärkermodul
Keiga Electronic Inc. - since 1996
The Mivoc is the most powerful but has a fixed active filter at 135 hz and built in filter below 45HZ No idea how it sounds as i can't read the german sites.
The Keiga I have seen on google search in a system using a 6.5" TB subwoofer. It is the least powerful at 50 w plus 2x 25 w but is very compact and I think has a built in back compartment. Sound is apparently smooth but not the best for detail and soundstage.
The Dayton is slightly more powerful than the Keiga and is supposed to sound 'cleaner'. Yes it has separate controls for sub and sat but this doesn't matter as the source (iPod etc)is the master volume control anyway
Anyone used the Mivoc or the Keiga?
I've been doing some research and with help from various forums have found 3 so far,
from Dayton, Mivoc and Keiga
Dayton Audio MCA2250E 2.1 Channel Class D Amplifier - Audio Amplifiers - Audio / Video
speaker trade - mivoc - Einzelchassis - A 3120 2.1 Aktiv- Verstärkermodul
Keiga Electronic Inc. - since 1996
The Mivoc is the most powerful but has a fixed active filter at 135 hz and built in filter below 45HZ No idea how it sounds as i can't read the german sites.
The Keiga I have seen on google search in a system using a 6.5" TB subwoofer. It is the least powerful at 50 w plus 2x 25 w but is very compact and I think has a built in back compartment. Sound is apparently smooth but not the best for detail and soundstage.
The Dayton is slightly more powerful than the Keiga and is supposed to sound 'cleaner'. Yes it has separate controls for sub and sat but this doesn't matter as the source (iPod etc)is the master volume control anyway
Anyone used the Mivoc or the Keiga?
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Yes it has separate controls for sub and sat but this doesn't matter
as the source (iPod etc) is the master volume control anyway.
Hi,
It does matter as it allows adjustment of the matching of drivers.
I understand your point, but separate controls are an advantage.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
It does matter as it allows adjustment of the matching of drivers.
I understand your point, but separate controls are an advantage.
rgds, sreten.
Yes, what I mean is, people criticize the dayton amp for having separate controls when most of us now use computers or iPods to control the system.
here's the Keiga amp used in a system with Fostex FRs
http://www.specimenproducts.com/satellite-subwoofer/
http://www.specimenproducts.com/enjoy-the-music-com/
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The answer is just to build ( DIY after all) or buy a real electronic crossover. Even a $90 Bheringer is better than the plate amps. You can do a steeper crossover and then go a bot higher without as much sub localization.
OTOH, part of the appeal of the all in one 2.1 plate amp is that, well it's all in one package. Certainly the cheaper ones are limited in flexibility compared to any number of brands of separates, but then plate amps in that price range are generally chosen for situations where some compromise is tolerable - if even detectable.
Exactly. Its an all in one active module, controlled by the source.
BTW I noticed that the Dayton plate amp has its satellite high pass filters set @ 150hz 2nd order. Would obviously prefer it lower but on second thoughts the sub x/o can be set lower and the slight dip around 120hz would control the bloated upper bass so many sub systems suffer from.
I wish Hypex would make a 2.1 like this.
BTW I noticed that the Dayton plate amp has its satellite high pass filters set @ 150hz 2nd order. Would obviously prefer it lower but on second thoughts the sub x/o can be set lower and the slight dip around 120hz would control the bloated upper bass so many sub systems suffer from.
I wish Hypex would make a 2.1 like this.
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So build your own. Class D amps and some nifty DSP crossovers so you can do exactly what you want. So, either build an amp/crossover (modify) or build speakers that match what the available plate does. It is a system. If you just pick one of these and another of those, well, the outcome is predictable and not a good story.
I can't be dealing with separate components, I'll electrocute myself.
So system matching is what I'm planning; the woofer I have now doesn't match the plate amp. So I'll have to buy maybe like a TB W61139 or Dayton SD215. Both are 4 ohm and can be driven by 50watts, bearing in mind an active 50 watts is superior to passive. I might possibly upgrade some of the components on the plate amp, if its possible.
So system matching is what I'm planning; the woofer I have now doesn't match the plate amp. So I'll have to buy maybe like a TB W61139 or Dayton SD215. Both are 4 ohm and can be driven by 50watts, bearing in mind an active 50 watts is superior to passive. I might possibly upgrade some of the components on the plate amp, if its possible.
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Exactly. Its an all in one active module, controlled by the source.
BTW I noticed that the Dayton plate amp has its satellite high pass filters set @ 150hz 2nd order. Would obviously prefer it lower but on second thoughts the sub x/o can be set lower and the slight dip around 120hz would control the bloated upper bass so many sub systems suffer from.
I wish Hypex would make a 2.1 like this.
well at the quality levels of the Hypex, I think the AS2.100 or 2.400 is as close as you'll get from them for now - still need the outboard amp for woofer
it does look like not a whole helluva lot of choice in this particular niche yet - FWIW the couple of Dayton electronics products I've had exposure to were quite acceptable sonically
Unless you're putting the whole system into something like a retro style console, toolbox/carry-on suitcase or building into a wall, you'll need at least 3 separate speaker enclosures and connecting cables - so for those folks looking to limit overall clutter, the convenience of placing the amp modules in those boxes is very appealing
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