At last somebody that proves me right 
Some points as it seems you missed some info:
- C32 should be the other way around because an error was made. Please do this before using the DAC. It will sound better and the cap will last longer. So the - should be orientated where the + is printed on the PCB.
- Output caps of the regs should be tantalum 4.7 µF (C19, C22, C26 and C29) as the regs don't like too low ESR of ceramic caps
- a tantalum 4.7 µF tantalum for C8 is a bit better.
BTW nice build ! Nice soldering skills and, if I am not mistaking, even with lead free solder. Correct the stuff and you'll have the best DAC around Lake Ohrid !
Some points as it seems you missed some info:
- C32 should be the other way around because an error was made. Please do this before using the DAC. It will sound better and the cap will last longer. So the - should be orientated where the + is printed on the PCB.
- Output caps of the regs should be tantalum 4.7 µF (C19, C22, C26 and C29) as the regs don't like too low ESR of ceramic caps
- a tantalum 4.7 µF tantalum for C8 is a bit better.
BTW nice build ! Nice soldering skills and, if I am not mistaking, even with lead free solder. Correct the stuff and you'll have the best DAC around Lake Ohrid !
Last edited:
Thanks guys for good words about my build with special thanks to J-P for his suggestions and assistance.
I checked previous posts and it's true i missed the post with J-P explanation about C32, i'll fix this tomorow.
About tantalum, i like to build one board with ceramic and one with tanatalum caps and hear the diference.
Solder is multicore 0.5mm 60/40
I checked previous posts and it's true i missed the post with J-P explanation about C32, i'll fix this tomorow.
About tantalum, i like to build one board with ceramic and one with tanatalum caps and hear the diference.
Solder is multicore 0.5mm 60/40
Hi skouliki
C10 & R11 seems fine to me, close values.
C11 is different as I've got -2.20/1.25 vs -1.70/1.73 ; 0.5V lost somewhere, check it
Is it due to Pin16 = 0v ? C11 seems to be a dedicated internal ES9023 cap.
ES9023 Pins
Pin1 -> R7______________Pin16 -> ?
Pin2 -> R8______________Pin15 -> R13
Pin3 -> R9______________Pin14 -> Gnd
Pin4 -> Gnd/C10_________Pin13 -> R12
Pin5 -> C10b+___________Pin12 -> Gnd
Pin6 -> R11/C9__________Pin11 -> C12/C32-
Pin7 -> R15/C15Gnd______Pin10 -> C11
Pin8 -> R14/C14Gng______Pin09 -> C11
Pin16 is 0v on your DAC, it seems to be faulty but on the scheme there is no connexion shown...
Your DAC values seems fine to me, except Pin16 and previous remark about C11.
Maybe someone more skilled than me could give an helping hand.
C10 & R11 seems fine to me, close values.
C11 is different as I've got -2.20/1.25 vs -1.70/1.73 ; 0.5V lost somewhere, check it
Is it due to Pin16 = 0v ? C11 seems to be a dedicated internal ES9023 cap.
ES9023 Pins
Pin1 -> R7______________Pin16 -> ?
Pin2 -> R8______________Pin15 -> R13
Pin3 -> R9______________Pin14 -> Gnd
Pin4 -> Gnd/C10_________Pin13 -> R12
Pin5 -> C10b+___________Pin12 -> Gnd
Pin6 -> R11/C9__________Pin11 -> C12/C32-
Pin7 -> R15/C15Gnd______Pin10 -> C11
Pin8 -> R14/C14Gng______Pin09 -> C11
Pin16 is 0v on your DAC, it seems to be faulty but on the scheme there is no connexion shown...
Your DAC values seems fine to me, except Pin16 and previous remark about C11.
Maybe someone more skilled than me could give an helping hand.
Last edited:
looks like a fun build, but i've gotta say, that huge film cap could not act more like an aerial if that was your goal. twisting the wires in this case does not help, if anything if it was part of a wide band amplifier it would easily cause it to oscillate. see you are twisting the same signal with an earlier version of itself, not ground or negative as is usually the case when twisting pairs.
Last edited:
no problem, have fun
syklab: why have you got the case laid out like that? why not put the dac and its reception tower, erm caps ( ) all over on the right side right next to the outputs, leave all the power supply stuff over on the left side and connect DC from the regulators over the longer distances.
the dac has on-board regs anyway so if any connection can afford to be long, its those ones.
syklab: why have you got the case laid out like that? why not put the dac and its reception tower, erm caps (
) all over on the right side right next to the outputs, leave all the power supply stuff over on the left side and connect DC from the regulators over the longer distances. the dac has on-board regs anyway so if any connection can afford to be long, its those ones.
Last edited:
no, but I can imagine
thats why I came back to edit and add more detail to that post, to save you from having to.pictures of my build
I've now gotten my DAC + JG style buffer cased up and more or less completed. I housed it in a Hammond cast aluminum box, approximately 220mm x 145mm x 50mm. I managed to scrounge up some 1uf 50v BG NX and 100uf 6.3 BG N caps, so I included those in the build. The sound continues to impress me - kudos to JP and Subu. I like the sound slightly better with the JG buffer but there is a lot more cost and work associated with building it this way. One needs an extra transformer and power supply and nearly twice as much room. But the resulting DAC still is reasonably compact and I think it's worth the effort.
---Gary
I've now gotten my DAC + JG style buffer cased up and more or less completed. I housed it in a Hammond cast aluminum box, approximately 220mm x 145mm x 50mm. I managed to scrounge up some 1uf 50v BG NX and 100uf 6.3 BG N caps, so I included those in the build. The sound continues to impress me - kudos to JP and Subu. I like the sound slightly better with the JG buffer but there is a lot more cost and work associated with building it this way. One needs an extra transformer and power supply and nearly twice as much room. But the resulting DAC still is reasonably compact and I think it's worth the effort.
---Gary
Attachments
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.