Hello everyone,
... i was led here accidentally by a comment of jean-paul in another post:
A few questions came to my mind:
The first one has already be answered, i'm afraid
(Is there a pcb/ dac/kit left?)
The second question is if its possible to install a ES9023 dac-pcb in an old CDP like the Marantz cd-67 by just connecting it to 5V and the I2S-lines? Well i think it should be, but are there other things that need to be considered, like reclocking? The decoder/servo and the dac would have different clock frequencies then....
Sorry if this is a stupid question for you guys.
Regards,
Mickie
... i was led here accidentally by a comment of jean-paul in another post:
A few questions came to my mind:
The first one has already be answered, i'm afraid
(Is there a pcb/ dac/kit left?)
The second question is if its possible to install a ES9023 dac-pcb in an old CDP like the Marantz cd-67 by just connecting it to 5V and the I2S-lines? Well i think it should be, but are there other things that need to be considered, like reclocking? The decoder/servo and the dac would have different clock frequencies then....
Sorry if this is a stupid question for you guys.
Regards,
Mickie
Yes we provided in I2S pads on the PCB. I have some rev 1 populated boards left but you will have to PM me for those. They are looking and sounding OK but differ in some aspects as I tried out various clocks, caps etc. No rats nests and ugly modifications on these. The ones that had that have left the building.
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Thanks for your qiuck answer jean-paul!
...so, no trouble having a 16,9344 Clock for the decoder/dac and the ess-board with its 50 MHZ?
I'm asking because in its original configuration the dac (SM5872BS) and the decoder/servo (SAA7372GP) need to be supplied by one single clock....
Regards,
Mickie
...so, no trouble having a 16,9344 Clock for the decoder/dac and the ess-board with its 50 MHZ?
I'm asking because in its original configuration the dac (SM5872BS) and the decoder/servo (SAA7372GP) need to be supplied by one single clock....
Regards,
Mickie
Hi Jean-Paul,
Would the USB Audio 2.0 - I2S Module, will match with your DAC? Here's the link, USB Audio 2.0 - I2S Module | XMOS.
Cheers,
Fred
Would the USB Audio 2.0 - I2S Module, will match with your DAC? Here's the link, USB Audio 2.0 - I2S Module | XMOS.
Cheers,
Fred
Sorry but old fashioned as I am I don't see any coolness in USB audio at all. It is that the market dictates it but for me there will be no computer in my living room for audio. No style, no taste, only convenience. Hey everybody has the right to be a snob in some area isn't it ?
But what is wrong with Tenor TE7022L ? If I would use USB I would choose this chip (or: more likely TE8802L).
But what is wrong with Tenor TE7022L ? If I would use USB I would choose this chip (or: more likely TE8802L).
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A modified Hifidelio. Two of them in fact. Both are Pro 160 gb models and they have modified power supplies and low jitter clocks with separate transformers/power supplies. Also an old Philips cdplayer with CDM4 (unbeatable if you ask me) and an old Kenwood DP-5050. The latter is only used for testing.
As you can see I really like the Hifidelio approach but too bad they used mediocre AD1981B DACs
Well, not too bad for you as there would not have been a ES9023 DAC if the Hifidelios would have had really good DACs.....
I normally have FN1242a DACs connected to the Hifidelios but I did not compare those to the ES9023 (yet). Don't know why but for some reason I am not too keen on trying. The FN1242a DACs are also in storage so it will not be until I move houses again in october that I will have the chance.
As you can see I really like the Hifidelio approach but too bad they used mediocre AD1981B DACs
Well, not too bad for you as there would not have been a ES9023 DAC if the Hifidelios would have had really good DACs.....I normally have FN1242a DACs connected to the Hifidelios but I did not compare those to the ES9023 (yet). Don't know why but for some reason I am not too keen on trying. The FN1242a DACs are also in storage so it will not be until I move houses again in october that I will have the chance.
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no offense...
I was just kidding actually when mentioning about coolness of async USB transport, because it is hot today... I myself have once owned TE7022L based DAC, which are sold already.. and I believe TE7022L is much better then the PCM2706 based transport...I also agree that TE8802L is very promising... I hope that I would see some DIY implementation in the future.. I happened to have an async based XMOS USB to SPDIF/I2S card now that I'd like to try... while I don't want to mesh with my existing TDA1545 DAC...
Though I'm still use my notebook for my work and also for audio, I foresee a dedicated mini board computer based on something like Raspberry Pi (The 8 Cheapest Computers in the World) with properly regulated power supply, wrapped in a decent case, would be quite reasonable...
I'm just starting on my board today! I wanted to finish up a previous project first. This is my first time soldering SMD components, though I have lots of experience with through-hole components. I found this great U-tube video on soldering SMD components which I wanted to make other novices aware of.
Surface Mount Soldering 101 - YouTube
-Byron
Surface Mount Soldering 101 - YouTube
-Byron
Not clear on the orientation of the ES9023
Greetings,
WOW! I didn't think soldering SMD components would be this difficult or time consuming. It's good that I got myself a MagniVisor.
The outline of the ES9023 has a notch at one end, but the ES9023 its self does not have a notch at either end, but has a circle on the top near one end. Does the circle go on the same side as the notch in the PCB outline? I'm guessing it does. I just want to make sure before I solder it in place.
Also: What is the status of the power supply? I want to know if I should get the Velleman kit or wait for a PS group buy.
-Byron
Greetings,
WOW! I didn't think soldering SMD components would be this difficult or time consuming. It's good that I got myself a MagniVisor.
The outline of the ES9023 has a notch at one end, but the ES9023 its self does not have a notch at either end, but has a circle on the top near one end. Does the circle go on the same side as the notch in the PCB outline? I'm guessing it does. I just want to make sure before I solder it in place.
Also: What is the status of the power supply? I want to know if I should get the Velleman kit or wait for a PS group buy.
-Byron
Hi the circle means the same as the notch. Please see the pics elsewhere in this thread.
I strongly advise this project not to be your first SMD soldering job ! Have it done by an experienced person or first do a tryout on a defective device or something like that. This is not a project for beginners, no pun intended.
SMD soldering never will be my favourite but with some precautions it will be not so difficult as it seems. You got a magnifier which is indeed a must have. Some tips that I already mentioned some pages ago:
- buy some solder wick/braid !!!
- Please use thin (0.7 mm or less) leaded 60/40 solder of good quality and not that terrible ROHS stuff even if it has a fantastic name like "Cardas tri-eutectic" solder.
- Use good bent tweezers to pick up the parts and to place them straight and without burning your fingers
- Solder all pins of the WM8804 at once (each side) and then use solder wick to remove excess solder.
- after the board is soldered please remove excess solder with solder wick
- clean the PCB with either isopropyl alcohol 99% or special PCB cleaning stuff. Remove the flux.
- Cotton tabs (the ones for ear cleaning) are excellent to clean the PCB or to remove the flux from IC pins together with a cleaning fluid like isopropyl alcohol
The Power Supply PCB is being produced now. There is another thread about that. I don't know of you can still join that group buy as I am not the person arranging the group buy. It is a plain and simple but low noise circuit around good old LM723. It has an onboard transformer for safety and less wiring.
I strongly advise this project not to be your first SMD soldering job ! Have it done by an experienced person or first do a tryout on a defective device or something like that. This is not a project for beginners, no pun intended.
SMD soldering never will be my favourite but with some precautions it will be not so difficult as it seems. You got a magnifier which is indeed a must have. Some tips that I already mentioned some pages ago:
- buy some solder wick/braid !!!
- Please use thin (0.7 mm or less) leaded 60/40 solder of good quality and not that terrible ROHS stuff even if it has a fantastic name like "Cardas tri-eutectic" solder.
- Use good bent tweezers to pick up the parts and to place them straight and without burning your fingers
- Solder all pins of the WM8804 at once (each side) and then use solder wick to remove excess solder.
- after the board is soldered please remove excess solder with solder wick
- clean the PCB with either isopropyl alcohol 99% or special PCB cleaning stuff. Remove the flux.
- Cotton tabs (the ones for ear cleaning) are excellent to clean the PCB or to remove the flux from IC pins together with a cleaning fluid like isopropyl alcohol
The Power Supply PCB is being produced now. There is another thread about that. I don't know of you can still join that group buy as I am not the person arranging the group buy. It is a plain and simple but low noise circuit around good old LM723. It has an onboard transformer for safety and less wiring.
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The Power Supply PCB is being produced now. There is another thread about that. I don't know of you can still join that group buy as I am not the person arranging the group buy. It is a plain and simple but low noise circuit around good old LM723. It has an onboard transformer for safety and less wiring.[/QUOTE]
can you post the link to the thread? i could not find it.
thanks
can you post the link to the thread? i could not find it.
thanks
can you post the link to the thread? i could not find it.
thanks[/QUOTE]
Check the link in the first post of this thread.
RC
Thanks, Jean-Paul, for the additional soldering advice. Assembly has been going well, (following your advice and a You-tube video) just slowly. I'm taking your advice and looking for someone to assemble my second board. I'm 1/2 done with the first, so I'll finish that up myself.
I was unable to find a thread for a power supply group buy. The only link in the first post of this thread is to the DAC development thread, which has not had any new posts since April. I noticed the signup sheet in the first post has a new column for "number of power supply boards", so I put in my "2".
I was unable to find a thread for a power supply group buy. The only link in the first post of this thread is to the DAC development thread, which has not had any new posts since April. I noticed the signup sheet in the first post has a new column for "number of power supply boards", so I put in my "2".
Check the link in the first post of this thread.
RC[/QUOTE]
Jean-Paul referenced a thread related to the power supply pcb. that was what i i was looking for.
Jean-Paul referenced a thread related to the power supply pcb. that was what i i was looking for.[/QUOTE]
The power supply PCB is discussed in the group buy linked below.
The PSU BOM is in post #102
RC
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/214905-es9023-wm8804-s-pdif-dac-parts-gb-eu-only-2.html
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