Why do you need so much power?...
Yes, this salient question has yet to answered by OP...once it is, constructive and more refined suggestions can be made.
Yes, this salient question has yet to answered by OP...once it is, constructive and more refined suggestions can be made.
Thanks for all those who contributed their opinion.
I take the point about selecting efficent speakers. (I knew that already.)
I have a big listening room.
As I confessed up front, I don't have great knowledge of SE amps, so my question was part-practical, part-curiosity.
Anyway, your contributions have given me a number of leads to pursue, so thanks to all. The part count will be another factor. I admire simplicity.
cheers
Doug
Solution = active bi-ampI take the point about selecting efficent speakers. (I knew that already.)
I have a big listening room.
SET amp for mid & high frequency drivers (high efficiency of course) and P-P amp for woofer.
Solution = active bi-amp
SET amp for mid & high frequency drivers (high efficiency of course) and P-P amp for woofer.
That's almost the way I'm heading.
I have a pair of efficient vintage Peak 8CX50's (=Coral 8CX501's) and 2 pair of Eminence 15A's - in the spirit of MJK's dual 15A OB. I plan to bi-amp them using a miniDSP. The bass will be driven by a SS Yamaha M-70.
What is to be decided is the tube amp. I have most of the parts for a RH84, but was wondering what might be a little more powerful. (& yes, I know that I've got to more than double the power of the RH84 before there'll be any practical difference in SPL.)
The listening room is ~ 30' L x 20' W with a skillion ceiling sloping up from 9' to 17'.
cheers
Doug
Thanks for all those who contributed their opinion.
I take the point about selecting efficent speakers. (I knew that already.)
I have a big listening room.
As I confessed up front, I don't have great knowledge of SE amps, so my question was part-practical, part-curiosity.
Anyway, your contributions have given me a number of leads to pursue, so thanks to all. The part count will be another factor. I admire simplicity.
cheers
Doug
You haven't explained why your proposed amplifier should be single-ended. As already suggested a push-pull design would be much more efficient and given the size of your listening-room I should say, essential - especially if very high voltages, and exotic valves or indeed complexity are to be avoided.
And yes, the old sound engineer's rule went "Ten times the power to double the [perceived] volume"
Paul
same way with push pull amps
When you use higher impedance OT,you effectively lower the feedback and maintain the same lower distortion.Granted,you lose some power but you gain in sonics in a way thats incredible..A great example is the heath w5m..It uses a pair of kt66s and a typical kt66 PP application is 6k. The 16309 is around 11 or 12k which is almost double..The bandwidth is huge and the distortion is very low even on a stock unmodded unit.
When you use higher impedance OT,you effectively lower the feedback and maintain the same lower distortion.Granted,you lose some power but you gain in sonics in a way thats incredible..A great example is the heath w5m..It uses a pair of kt66s and a typical kt66 PP application is 6k. The 16309 is around 11 or 12k which is almost double..The bandwidth is huge and the distortion is very low even on a stock unmodded unit.
You haven't explained why your proposed amplifier should be single-ended.
Paul
Oh, OK.
Well I came across the RH84 design, and it seemed to me that it has a pleasingly small parts list.
My naive assumption was that more powerful SE amps would be similarly simple.
cheers
Doug
Doug
Single ended amps are simple as they don't use a phase splitter and use very low if any feedback.The drawbacks to single ended designs are higher 2nd order distortion and output transformers containing lots more wire than a comparably powered PP design.
This can suppress the higher freq in some transformer designs because the signal travels thru much more wire. New SE trans designs have gotten much better but they are costly,
I have 360 tube amps and all but 6 are vintage..I have a single pair of Cary/AES SE811 amps that use sv572-3 tubes and I modded them with motor run caps..While they sound ok,I have literally sound the magnavox SE pentode 7189 amp to bury it in the dirt..I am not kidding.
Single ended amps are simple as they don't use a phase splitter and use very low if any feedback.The drawbacks to single ended designs are higher 2nd order distortion and output transformers containing lots more wire than a comparably powered PP design.
This can suppress the higher freq in some transformer designs because the signal travels thru much more wire. New SE trans designs have gotten much better but they are costly,
I have 360 tube amps and all but 6 are vintage..I have a single pair of Cary/AES SE811 amps that use sv572-3 tubes and I modded them with motor run caps..While they sound ok,I have literally sound the magnavox SE pentode 7189 amp to bury it in the dirt..I am not kidding.
Higher 2nd (and following even orders) order harmonics is the main reason why people choose SET amp despite its low power. I wouldn't call that a drawback.The drawbacks to single ended designs are higher 2nd order distortion and
Here is the design I mentioned...there is even a guy who made a kit available here on the forum....i built mine with Edcor Iron and it sounded fantastic...i even started looking into doing a parallel KT88 version of this amp...just cut the primary Z to 2.5k and select some well matched tubes...should be good for close to twenty watts.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...8-build-abdellah-diyaudioprojects-design.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...8-build-abdellah-diyaudioprojects-design.html
I have 360 tube amps...
Really? Can you post some pics? (SE preferably so we can stay roughly on topic)
Yes, I agree. Tubes can do great organic sound.Higher 2nd (and following even orders) order harmonics is the main reason why people choose SET amp despite its low power. I wouldn't call that a drawback.
Even harmonics are what distinguishes valves from transistors and his sterille sound.
Distinguishes SE design from P-P design. Below are measurements of SET and P-P amps. White is SET tube amp, blue is P-P transistor amp and yellow is P-P tube amp. Yes, SET and P-P amps do sound different.Even harmonics are what distinguishes valves from transistors
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I notice small sidebands around the test signal on the yellow P-P tube amp. Are these near 120 Hz separation from the test signal? If so, could you please run the tube amp FFT test again with like a 20 or 30 Hz test signal, so the sidebands are clearly resolved? This issue came up in another thread and was the source of controversy.
Also, was it a triode P-P amplifier?
Also, was it a triode P-P amplifier?
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The test tone was 1KHz.I notice small sidebands around the test signal on the yellow P-P tube amp. Are these near 120 Hz separation from the test signal? If so, could you please run the tube amp FFT test again with like a 20 or 30 Hz test signal, so the sidebands are clearly resolved?
Also, was it a triode P-P amplifier?
It was Dynaco Mark IV which I sold since the measurement.Those sidebands are quite severe- what's the power supply ripple?
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