My contribution to this site...if anyone is interested.

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I was questioning the shielding of the signal and return seperatly, if I read the post correctly.

Marce, the shileding of both conductors separately has to do with the physical layout of the design. It is easier for me to keep them separate than to try to shield together. Also, the shileding I use is BOTH for interference rejection and to keep the conductors from oxidizing. They will oxidize in just a cotton dielectric jacket. I dont believe that shielding both conductors together offers an advantage in these short, low conducting cables.
 
Marce, the shielding of both conductors separately has to do with the physical layout of the design. It is easier for me to keep them separate than to try to shield together. Also, the shielding I use is BOTH for interference rejection and to keep the conductors from oxidizing. They will oxidize in just a cotton dielectric jacket. I don't believe that shielding both conductors together offers an advantage in these short, low conducting cables.
You don't understand the purpose and effect of low loop area.
 
Hi AndrewT,
I refer you to post 10


I am assuming that what Aptquark is presenting is the best combination to his ears, thus my conclusions. Aptquark may confirm or deny such, but what I was really hoping for was some further commentary on these points.

yes Alazira, you are correct in your assumptions.:D I will add a little more later after fiddling around with the new cotton rope. This larger diameter rope may allow me to change the morphology slighlty, and try out a few things I couldnt before.
 
You don't understand the purpose and effect of low loop area.

Spell it our for me would ya?


Ok, i did some reading...you are talking about loops in circuits and such right? And similarities in cable loops between signal and return yes? Like basically what a balanced cable does thats more advantageous than reg.

Yea...NAH....fuhgettaboutit. No issues here.
 
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I thought I did...(man dont make me go back and read my ramblings..lol)

My ref. sys. were SS = Jeff Rowland class D amp / and pre-amp, Weytech Labs Opal Pre (tube), Gamut SS amp, Jolida CDP (tube out and digital out)..and a few other types.

But the Manley Skipjack is what really made the whole process easy. With this device, you can hook up 4 cables and seemlessly transition through each one with a single source input. It has a wired remote (like 30 feet long) where with one click you can sample each cable immediately with no audible break between each.

How do you know that the Manley box doesn't have a signature?
It uses relays inside? Wire... etc...

Isnt that a pretty good way to just sit back and try out diff. designs? I thought so anyways.

Difficult system to listen to - no speakers??

Class D amp, eh? Hmmmm...

Have you measured the capacitance per foot of your interconnects?
That counts...

just askin'...

_-_-bear
 
How do you know that the Manley box doesn't have a signature?
It uses relays inside? Wire... etc...

yes, but the control was the skipjack.



Difficult system to listen to - no speakers?? JBL monitors, Thiel 3 ways, and Acoustic Zen MTM's

Class D amp, eh? Hmmmm... Not just that, but Class AB, and tube

Have you measured the capacitance per foot of your interconnects?
That counts... No did not measure that...I decided that with small runs, not important.

just askin'...ASK AWAY!

_-_-bear
 
These both measure capacitance as well as being cheap all-around DMM's, and may be good enough to be "acceptable"
Our Best Low Cost Multi-Function Digital Multimeter
Low Cost CSI2010 Digital Multimeter

I've got that first model, I paid $20 for it new, some guy had like 10 of them at a hamfest a year or two ago. I can't find it offhand to try it out, but the lowest capacitance scale should have a resolution of 1pF, which should be good enough to measure one cable as (for example, just guessing at numbers) 45pF and another as 49pF and thus the second has more capacitance, even if the exact values for each measurement are several pF off.

For real money and accuracy, I have a BK-878 digital L-R-C meter (and I know exactly where it is, unlike the other one that's floating around here somewhere), which is now sold as model BK-878B, sells in the $200 range. I bought it for measuring and matching crossover components (it's a full four digit display and has a capacitance resolution of down to 0.1pF which is overkill for most things), but incredibly I haven't made any speakers since I bought it.

I already had an old venerable GR X-Y bridge just like I had used in college decades earlier, but those things are a beast, you need both an oscillator and a meter to use it, AND you need to read the manual to know how to set the switches, and turn both dials to set the meter value to minimum measurement. It's far from intuitive, unless perhaps you used it often. Nowadays it's as much of a museum item as a piece of test equipment. There's this and a few other things I should put into a glass case.

And thanks to your recommendation, I just saw an animated version of "Smokey and the Bandit." I got my hammer down...
 
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