Hey Folks - If this is the base version I don't think I will be able to handle the "Ultimate"
Played one of my favorite big band and one classical albums and I'm shocked. This beats the Lexicon Omega, M-Audio M-Box and the DAC in my $1.700 Denon receiver - as is.
Seperation, depth, width, proper dynamics, clarity and punch are all remarkably improved. The words "sweet" and "smooth" come to mind.
There is some buzz in some loud, full, high passages but I'm sure that will disappear with both burn-in and upgrades.
I think I'll start believing you guys know of what you speak.
Played one of my favorite big band and one classical albums and I'm shocked. This beats the Lexicon Omega, M-Audio M-Box and the DAC in my $1.700 Denon receiver - as is.
Seperation, depth, width, proper dynamics, clarity and punch are all remarkably improved. The words "sweet" and "smooth" come to mind.
There is some buzz in some loud, full, high passages but I'm sure that will disappear with both burn-in and upgrades.
I think I'll start believing you guys know of what you speak.
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You're welcome, enjoy it!
This DAC sounds great, considering cost (even with all upgrades) it's a real bargain but my 15kg Sony SACD player (SCD555-ES, modded) sounds better (but not much)
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Dario, did you mod your SCD555-ES to include the ability to access the DAC chip with computer based S/PDIF sound?
For those who might be interested, here's some pics of the problem I developed. After soldering and removing the regs twice, the copper through-hole sleeve stuck to the pins. I believe this was due in part to the pins being rectangle which allows the corners to dig into the metal. In the future I will refrain from trying to seat pieces with non-round leads so tightly against the PCB. A dot of solder on top at each leg luckily brought back the continuity.
For those who might be interested, here's some pics of the problem I developed. After soldering and removing the regs twice, the copper through-hole sleeve stuck to the pins. I believe this was due in part to the pins being rectangle which allows the corners to dig into the metal. In the future I will refrain from trying to seat pieces with non-round leads so tightly against the PCB. A dot of solder on top at each leg luckily brought back the continuity.
Attachments
No, I don't think to have the necessary knowledge...
My mods focused on regulators, opamps and capacitors.
It happened to me several times before I bought a desoldering station... I've wrecked at least 4 My_Ref PCBs this way...
it's this one, a chinese station rebranded by italian importer.
The good thing is it's cheap and works well, the bad thing is the logic it's delicate and if gun touches cabinet for more than 30 seconds it get broken (the logic)...
In this moment logic it's broken (temperature fixed to 300°C) but it works perfectly for the rest.
If you're interested you should find a USA importer, after sale assistance is indispensable with that one.
The good thing is it's cheap and works well, the bad thing is the logic it's delicate and if gun touches cabinet for more than 30 seconds it get broken (the logic)...
In this moment logic it's broken (temperature fixed to 300°C) but it works perfectly for the rest.
If you're interested you should find a USA importer, after sale assistance is indispensable with that one.
Here is a link to pictures of the Mini 2496 pushing the integrated MyRef amp.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/203666-myref-integrated-solutions-13.html#post2959097
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/203666-myref-integrated-solutions-13.html#post2959097
Using ASIO or WASAPI for bit perfect output from the PC will disable the PC controlled volume.
Thanks, I'll dig in to those settings. I've read some stuff but have not played with them much.
Hi there
Just want to say a big shout out to Clave and anyone else who has been involved in the updating of this awesome little dac.
I was a little dissapointed when i first bought it, the detail was amazing but there was no bottom end at all.
I have changed most of the electrolytics to Elna/Nichicon Silmic II's and KZ's, and finally tonight the LPF resistors (AK4396) now there is so much more bass than the standard unit, it now compares to the sound of my bros modded marantz CD10, using my squeezebox and flac files as a source. I'm amazed how much more bottom end the LPF resistors have given.
Its been a learning curve but its been great fun gotta find another DIY project now.
Cheers again everyone
James
Just want to say a big shout out to Clave and anyone else who has been involved in the updating of this awesome little dac.
I was a little dissapointed when i first bought it, the detail was amazing but there was no bottom end at all.
I have changed most of the electrolytics to Elna/Nichicon Silmic II's and KZ's, and finally tonight the LPF resistors (AK4396) now there is so much more bass than the standard unit, it now compares to the sound of my bros modded marantz CD10, using my squeezebox and flac files as a source. I'm amazed how much more bottom end the LPF resistors have given.
Its been a learning curve but its been great fun
gotta find another DIY project now.Cheers again everyone
James
Thanks hotiron, just downloaded the latest version. I've used ASIO on a DAW with M-Audio and Presonus boxes but never tried it with a media server. Should be fun.
I know people get tired of hearing the phrase, but I'm discovering things not noticed before on often played music with this new DAC. Going to let this one burn-in a while but I'm getting excited about doing the upgrades.
I know people get tired of hearing the phrase, but I'm discovering things not noticed before on often played music with this new DAC. Going to let this one burn-in a while but I'm getting excited about doing the upgrades.
Well Bob... in fact an upgrade has been done... the MC7812/MC7912 are an important part of the upgrade BOM...
Thanks James
Yes the right LPF and right resistors and caps do make a difference.
Did you changed also caps with resistors... didn't you?
Its been a learning curve but its been great fun
If you want to change amp take a look at my My_Ref variation then...
Hey Dario - you sneaked your stuff in when I wasn't looking. I also have the better 9V reg but I'm enjoying the music too much to pull out the soldering iron.
I checked and I do have the AK4396 installed from the vendor. I'll do the full upgrade in a few days.
I don't presume to know everyone's equipment, but if you don't have one, I encourage builders to find a speaker with an 8" or larger woofer. I'm sure the better parts improve the low end in many ways, but sometimes what appears as an amp/DAC shortcoming is just drivers that can't put out the SPL. I'm listening to some pipe organ music on some 8" drivers as I write this. Getting full resonance and floor vibration on the pedal tones with this stock build. "Your mileage may vary".
Also wondering if switching to an R-core from this toroid I'm using will give a significant boost.
I can see myself trying some of the fancy power schemes described in this thread - including Dario's when he gets the time to design it for this unit.
I also have the better 9V reg but I'm enjoying the music too much to pull out the soldering iron.I checked and I do have the AK4396 installed from the vendor. I'll do the full upgrade in a few days.
I don't presume to know everyone's equipment, but if you don't have one, I encourage builders to find a speaker with an 8" or larger woofer. I'm sure the better parts improve the low end in many ways, but sometimes what appears as an amp/DAC shortcoming is just drivers that can't put out the SPL. I'm listening to some pipe organ music on some 8" drivers as I write this. Getting full resonance and floor vibration on the pedal tones with this stock build. "Your mileage may vary".
Also wondering if switching to an R-core from this toroid I'm using will give a significant boost.
I can see myself trying some of the fancy power schemes described in this thread - including Dario's when he gets the time to design it for this unit.
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Can someone help me setting the Salas shunt for the analog part? I built it, but the shunt needs to see a constant current drawn, otherwise the voltage won't be stable, right? I suspect the analog part doesn't draw constant current, it could vary?. Look at the datasheet: Site of Asahi KASEI MICRODEVICES -Audioak4393/ak4393_f02e.pdf
The current drawn is nominated as 60mA, but it's mentioned that AVDD + DVDD = 90mA max. Should I consider this as a startup peak?
The current drawn is nominated as 60mA, but it's mentioned that AVDD + DVDD = 90mA max. Should I consider this as a startup peak?