Please fellow diyers copy the whole list if you add your name, we who have added our names do not want to be taken out
tvicol
uncle_leon
NOMDI x 3
syklab x 2
apoopoo999 US
CeeVee x 2
Lucylu
pchw x 2 US
Turbon x 2
DaveM US
Praudio Canada
kamaths US
timjac41
dillmeister x 2 Canada
BMW850 x 2
Erik van Voorst x 2
JimS x 2 US
IndyAudi x 3
ChicagoJTW US
tubo x 2
quan x1
Ivo-Cici x2
Pjotr27
Stixx
vgeorge
ilrapa x 2
sandbasser x 2 US
Angcl x 2
JBdV x 2
andrewgm x 1
zjaakco x 2
Tony X x2
buzzforb US
skippyboy
rikkert1978
valo
Ed LaFontaine x 2 US
Turbon
Puffin x2 (depending on cost)
BTW x 2
marcus1 X 2
jnewbold
rchomeless
Jean-Charles
Tham
ColinAlex
C12mech
secanbj x2
geoteam 777
RKH x2
lugia862 x5
TheGimp 1 (or two depending on price)
Ivo-Cici
Tube 300 x3
tvicol
uncle_leon
NOMDI x 3
syklab x 2
apoopoo999 US
CeeVee x 2
Lucylu
pchw x 2 US
Turbon x 2
DaveM US
Praudio Canada
kamaths US
timjac41
dillmeister x 2 Canada
BMW850 x 2
Erik van Voorst x 2
JimS x 2 US
IndyAudi x 3
ChicagoJTW US
tubo x 2
quan x1
Ivo-Cici x2
Pjotr27
Stixx
vgeorge
ilrapa x 2
sandbasser x 2 US
Angcl x 2
JBdV x 2
andrewgm x 1
zjaakco x 2
Tony X x2
buzzforb US
skippyboy
rikkert1978
valo
Ed LaFontaine x 2 US
Turbon
Puffin x2 (depending on cost)
BTW x 2
marcus1 X 2
jnewbold
rchomeless
Jean-Charles
Tham
ColinAlex
C12mech
secanbj x2
geoteam 777
RKH x2
lugia862 x5
TheGimp 1 (or two depending on price)
Ivo-Cici
Tube 300 x3
Puck material
A core insert of Delrin or brass would solve the seasonal movement problem. Drill a hole and epoxy it in before turning the wood.
A core insert of Delrin or brass would solve the seasonal movement problem. Drill a hole and epoxy it in before turning the wood.
tvicol
uncle_leon
NOMDI x 3
syklab x 2
apoopoo999 US
CeeVee x 2
Lucylu
pchw x 2 US
Turbon x 2
DaveM US
Praudio Canada
kamaths US
timjac41
dillmeister x 2 Canada
BMW850 x 2
Erik van Voorst x 2
JimS x 2 US
IndyAudi x 3
ChicagoJTW US
tubo x 2
quan x1
Ivo-Cici x2
Pjotr27
Stixx
vgeorge
ilrapa x 2
sandbasser x 2 US
Angcl x 2
JBdV x 2
andrewgm x 1
zjaakco x 2
Tony X x2
buzzforb US
skippyboy
rikkert1978
valo
Ed LaFontaine x 2 US
Turbon
Puffin x2 (depending on cost)
BTW x 2
marcus1 X 2
jnewbold
rchomeless
Jean-Charles
Tham
ColinAlex
C12mech
secanbj x2
geoteam 777
RKH x2
lugia862 x5
TheGimp 1 (or two depending on price)
Ivo-Cici
Tube 300 x3
Spresto9
uncle_leon
NOMDI x 3
syklab x 2
apoopoo999 US
CeeVee x 2
Lucylu
pchw x 2 US
Turbon x 2
DaveM US
Praudio Canada
kamaths US
timjac41
dillmeister x 2 Canada
BMW850 x 2
Erik van Voorst x 2
JimS x 2 US
IndyAudi x 3
ChicagoJTW US
tubo x 2
quan x1
Ivo-Cici x2
Pjotr27
Stixx
vgeorge
ilrapa x 2
sandbasser x 2 US
Angcl x 2
JBdV x 2
andrewgm x 1
zjaakco x 2
Tony X x2
buzzforb US
skippyboy
rikkert1978
valo
Ed LaFontaine x 2 US
Turbon
Puffin x2 (depending on cost)
BTW x 2
marcus1 X 2
jnewbold
rchomeless
Jean-Charles
Tham
ColinAlex
C12mech
secanbj x2
geoteam 777
RKH x2
lugia862 x5
TheGimp 1 (or two depending on price)
Ivo-Cici
Tube 300 x3
Spresto9
I don't think you got my point. Wood moves. It moves when it first dries and then again with humidity and heat. If one side moves more than the other or pulls, the disk will develop a vertical wobble. I have a wine glass turned from apple that is a perfect example. It was straight on the lathe. It moved when it dried and is now very crooked.
Using an insert inside a wood platform won't address what I am suggesting might be an issue. If people want wood, why not do a delrin or aluminum platform with a wood puck. The puck itself is merely for clamping force. But it is important that the platform be stable and consistant.
DaveM, I see what you are saying about cost/practicality, and you are probably right. Although personally, for various reasons, I would very much prefer any material BUT plastic.
@ Ed LaFontaine, c12mech - Thank you for your kind offers. I am sure more people will be interested in a wooden puck - can you give us an estimate of how much such puck might cost (made according to Peter's drawing)? Only the hardest of hardwoods will be suitable for this (lignum vitae / verawood, ebony, blackwood, box, rosewood) - lesser woods will machine poorly, or warp with time as DaveM pointed out.
An important thing to keep in mind is that any puck (wooden or not) has to be balanced, and, according to Peter, the only reliable way to do this is to lathe the puck while it is mounted on the mechanism's shaft.
Edit: @DaveM - You picked a wrong wood... Apple is fairly heavy, but particularly prone to warping and cracking. Ebony or lignum vitae on the other hand are incredibly (unbelievably) hard, they machine and polish like stone or metal, and are very stable even submerged. Clockwork mechanisms, propeller bearings in warships and other precision parts were successfully made from them before the modern alloys and plastics became widespread.
Attachments
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I've been following this thread on and off for the last year or so. Now with the soon to be available boards I'd like to be counted in for 1 set. Thanks. But I have a question (since I probably missed it along the way): what is the recommended transport at this point? I didn't think the one that Peter used is available anymore? I'm sure the answer is in here somewhere, so if someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
I've made a good number of pucks from african blackwood and ebony - a few of the fellas here have them. Warping when machined is an issue, and there is also the issue of how to mount the puck. I ended up making an M6 stud from brass rod and pressing it into the hole at the top of the existing platform. The ebony puck then screwed down onto that.
There are a couple of points worth remembering:
It ain't easy to make the platform and get it right. The history of this thread alone shows that, and that was using acrylic, not a material that moves like wood!!! The only way to get it right is to press it onto the shaft and then machine it true while mounted on the motor shaft. Back up the thread there is a pic from 47 labs where they show the machining of a platform already mounted on a motor.
You will need to rough turn the puck, re-turn it, and then re-turn it again after further seasoning indoors. Make the threaded bit as short as you can, the fewer threads the better. More threads means more resistance when you are trying to screw it on to the platform. With no way of holding the platform (other than the friction of the CD sitting on it), the puck better spin down very freely.
Its very easy to over-tighten the puck. Doing so causes the CD to warp and you end up with even more wobble. Barely tight enough to stop the CD slipping is the way to go.
Sonic gain over the magnetic puck from the EZ31 door is minimal. Its the last mod I'd be looking at (and thats from someone who has made them, and tried them out extensively). Ask Peter, Kevinkr, m.massimo and Erik for their opinion.... they have my pucks I think.
IMHO, the 3 ball transport avoids all that crap and I have a memory of someone trying them and saying that it did a very good job of removing wobble from CDs that previously did. This would be worth doing more research on. I have 2 x 3ball mechs here, but never got a chance to put them into use ..yet.
Just sayin' before someone ends up with a lot of work on their hands.
Fran
There are a couple of points worth remembering:
It ain't easy to make the platform and get it right. The history of this thread alone shows that, and that was using acrylic, not a material that moves like wood!!! The only way to get it right is to press it onto the shaft and then machine it true while mounted on the motor shaft. Back up the thread there is a pic from 47 labs where they show the machining of a platform already mounted on a motor.
You will need to rough turn the puck, re-turn it, and then re-turn it again after further seasoning indoors. Make the threaded bit as short as you can, the fewer threads the better. More threads means more resistance when you are trying to screw it on to the platform. With no way of holding the platform (other than the friction of the CD sitting on it), the puck better spin down very freely.
Its very easy to over-tighten the puck. Doing so causes the CD to warp and you end up with even more wobble. Barely tight enough to stop the CD slipping is the way to go.
Sonic gain over the magnetic puck from the EZ31 door is minimal. Its the last mod I'd be looking at (and thats from someone who has made them, and tried them out extensively). Ask Peter, Kevinkr, m.massimo and Erik for their opinion.... they have my pucks I think.
IMHO, the 3 ball transport avoids all that crap and I have a memory of someone trying them and saying that it did a very good job of removing wobble from CDs that previously did. This would be worth doing more research on. I have 2 x 3ball mechs here, but never got a chance to put them into use ..yet.
Just sayin' before someone ends up with a lot of work on their hands.
Fran
tvicol
uncle_leon
NOMDI x 3
syklab x 2
apoopoo999 US
CeeVee x 2
Lucylu
pchw x 2 US
Turbon x 2
DaveM US
Praudio Canada
kamaths US
timjac41
dillmeister x 2 Canada
BMW850 x 2
Erik van Voorst x 2
JimS x 2 US
IndyAudi x 3
ChicagoJTW US
tubo x 2
quan x1
Ivo-Cici x2
Pjotr27
Stixx
vgeorge
ilrapa x 2
sandbasser x 2 US
Angcl x 2
JBdV x 2
andrewgm x 1
zjaakco x 2
Tony X x2
buzzforb US
skippyboy
rikkert1978
valo
Ed LaFontaine x 2 US
Turbon
Puffin x2 (depending on cost)
BTW x 2
marcus1 X 2
jnewbold
rchomeless
Jean-Charles
Tham
ColinAlex
C12mech
secanbj x2
geoteam 777
RKH x2
lugia862 x5
TheGimp 1 (or two depending on price)
Ivo-Cici
Tube 300 x3
Spresto9
Audiohifi x 1
uncle_leon
NOMDI x 3
syklab x 2
apoopoo999 US
CeeVee x 2
Lucylu
pchw x 2 US
Turbon x 2
DaveM US
Praudio Canada
kamaths US
timjac41
dillmeister x 2 Canada
BMW850 x 2
Erik van Voorst x 2
JimS x 2 US
IndyAudi x 3
ChicagoJTW US
tubo x 2
quan x1
Ivo-Cici x2
Pjotr27
Stixx
vgeorge
ilrapa x 2
sandbasser x 2 US
Angcl x 2
JBdV x 2
andrewgm x 1
zjaakco x 2
Tony X x2
buzzforb US
skippyboy
rikkert1978
valo
Ed LaFontaine x 2 US
Turbon
Puffin x2 (depending on cost)
BTW x 2
marcus1 X 2
jnewbold
rchomeless
Jean-Charles
Tham
ColinAlex
C12mech
secanbj x2
geoteam 777
RKH x2
lugia862 x5
TheGimp 1 (or two depending on price)
Ivo-Cici
Tube 300 x3
Spresto9
Audiohifi x 1
Those interested in this project please add yourself to this list.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsGrT4hW37cvdHQ2dXllWGJtYi1NU0lfNGhZSlNWR2c#gid=0
This will save a lot of space on the forum.
Regards,
Tibi
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsGrT4hW37cvdHQ2dXllWGJtYi1NU0lfNGhZSlNWR2c#gid=0
This will save a lot of space on the forum.
Regards,
Tibi
Will EZ51 survive?
Guys, I am following the discussion here for some time now. I have got probably one of the lasts EZ51 in Europe in my hands - new&unopened. As the box was not cheap my question is if the radio and tape will stay functional after I gut the CD part out? Then I could have a high-end CD transport AND keep a simple radio boombox as a small side effect. Still considering if I should engage the screwdriver and solder or put it on the Bay...
Guys, I am following the discussion here for some time now. I have got probably one of the lasts EZ51 in Europe in my hands - new&unopened. As the box was not cheap my question is if the radio and tape will stay functional after I gut the CD part out? Then I could have a high-end CD transport AND keep a simple radio boombox as a small side effect. Still considering if I should engage the screwdriver and solder or put it on the Bay...