microTower bipolar ML-TL for CHR-70 or EL70

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The high end response is there, certainly, but it is "rolled off" to a certain extent, giving a warm, laid back feeling by default. As you already know, Dave, this has had me wondering if I need to add a tweeter to my dual-EL70 Castle microTowers (or augment them in some other way), however I have been playing more with EQing and/or my treble control and I have realized that there really isn't anything (that I need) that can't be coaxed out of these drivers.

Perhaps hard to make them sound really "hot" at the high end, but that is not what I desire anyway.

As suggested in your other thread on the subject, I'd be inclined to simply try the CHP70s in the front facing location - at first you might even need EQ to tame the highest frequencies compared to what the EL70s are giving you now.
 
Nice job so far. I would say that generally speaking the stuffing/lining looks inadequate for optimal sound. Are you planning to add the same white lining to the back wall as well? I highly recommend doing so. And yes, by all means add good quality stuffing from behind/below the drivers all the way down to the bottom of the first holey brace (at least).

I used 2" fibreglass insulation for 3 interior walls and stuffed with "Supreme" Polyfil from the rear of the drivers down to the bottom of the second holey brace and these seemed to be optimal for my particulr pair of microTowers. However, I used 18mm baltic birch and I am running EL70 drivers...

Since it appears you are not making any of the panels removable, you would be wise to attach the rear panel with some bluetac and do some testing and stuffing adjustment while the speakers burn in.

Thank you Cogitech

I have glued 1" to two sides, full length and the top. I was going to buy a couple of cheap pillows and remove the stuffing for the spks. Does this work okay?

My friend will not to spend too much more, but it ofcourse it needs to sound good.
 
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As suggested in your other thread on the subject, I'd be inclined to simply try the CHP70s in the front facing location - at first you might even need EQ to tame the highest frequencies compared to what the EL70s are giving you now.

Sorry, I meant CHR-70.3 (not CHP). I am sure you meant this as well. :)

But yes, I still might do this. I have nothing to lose by trying it, since either way I will end up with an extra pair of excellent drivers for my next project. Only time will tell whether the extra pair will be EL70 or CHR-70.3 :)
 
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Thank you Cogitech

I have glued 1" to two sides, full length and the top. I was going to buy a couple of cheap pillows and remove the stuffing for the spks. Does this work okay?

My friend will not to spend too much more, but it ofcourse it needs to sound good.

I had the same idea to buy cheap pillows, but then I read a thread by zman01 about stuffing his Castles. he tried a whole bunch of different stuffings and found that they dramatically changed the sound (both bass and treble). I cannot recall what he ended up using, but this thread convinced me to buy some quality stuffing. I bought a bag of "Supreme" Polyfil stuffing at "Michaels" (a craft store). I paid close to $9 for the bag and I am very happy with the sound of my speakers.

Having said all this, there is a chance that the cheap pillows will have stuffing that is just as good or better (and I have wasted $9). There's no way to know without trying...

I highly recommend burning the speakers in gently over a long period of time (a couple hundred hours) before doing a full assessment/adjustment of stuffing, and then finally when you are happy, seal up the boxes.
 
Sorry, I meant CHR-70.3 (not CHP). I am sure you meant this as well. :)

But yes, I still might do this. I have nothing to lose by trying it, since either way I will end up with an extra pair of excellent drivers for my next project. Only time will tell whether the extra pair will be EL70 or CHR-70.3 :)


actually, yes that is what I meant - you get to my age and even though they're not that close on the keyboard, you often end up "P"-ing unintentionally
 
actually, yes that is what I meant - you get to my age and even though they're not that close on the keyboard, you often end up "P"-ing unintentionally



and gentlemen, given the invitation for a TRUS prostate biopsy - politely decline, but do accept samples of the little blue or yellow pills
 
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Hi Dave / Cogitech

I will try and pick up some polyfluff tomorrow. These speakers are for a friend and he lives some distance, so I will not be able to tune these speakers over a period of time, or to his room. I can of course do it at home for a while, but I will probably not be able to put enough hours on them before they get delivered to their new owner.

Would you recommend I do the following?

Spksstuffing.jpg


Thank you :)
 
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I wouldn't (didn't) line both side walls, but I used thicker, denser lining than you are, so it is hard for me to say whether you should.

Certainly add the ployfluff stuffing as indicated.

Another way to test them out is to put 1/8" self-sticking foam weather-strip around the perimeter of the cabinet and then clamp the back panel on. Listen for a while, adjust stuffing, lather rinse repeat.

In the meantime, the sooner you get the drivers running the better. Just hook them up naked and run them at low volume for 16-18 hours a day. This way they will be partially broken in by the time you install them in the cabs to start testing/tweaking stuffing.
 
Richard,

For stuffing and lining ideas, please refer to the post with the diagram by Planet10 on this link:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/148901-microtower-bipolar-ml-tl-chr-70-el70-23.html

Personally I have found recycled denim felt to be a better lining material vs poly fluff lining. The felt does a better job of killing early reflections IMHO.

+1 on Cogitech's suggestion on breaking in the drivers. Mark advices not more than 5-6 hours at a stretch IIRC, at low volumes with soft music, vocals (avoid bass heavy material) during break in.
 
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One other thing I noticed; your panel material looks very, very thick. Are you planning to chamfer the insides of the driver holes to allow the drivers to breathe? If not, I really think this is necessary, especially with material this thick...

With the drivers recessed there is 1/2" of material between the rear of the driver and the internal space. This was an over sight. I chamfered my Brines but forgot to take this into account with these cabinets as the MDF is thicker than the plywood suggested in Dave's plans. Its going to be a right PITA to do this now but I will try to chamfer the best I can.
 
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