I've built 3 boxes. 12x12x12, 16x12x18 and 18x12x24. (the 12" # on all 3 is the height due to desk limitations) I like the 12x12x12 best, it's only .6cf internally but it's giving me what I want for music.
Are these ported or sealed?
all done or are you open to ideas.
I'm always up for suggestions... as long as it's a sealed design
I'm always up for suggestions... as long as it's a sealed design
As I showed, 1 cu ft net volume, sealed, is probably the best alignment for this driver in my opinion. I'm inspired to do something like this for another system...
As I showed, 1 cu ft net volume, sealed, is probably the best alignment for this driver in my opinion. I'm inspired to do something like this for another system...
1cu ft internal or external volume?
1cu ft internal or external volume?
It's always about net internal volume, which is minus the bracing, the driver and any plate amp you may have in there... You'll have to ask Dayton for the volume taken up by the size of the driver itself. I can't find it on the datasheet. I would avoid a cube also... try internal dimensions of 20" x 12.4" x 7.7". I assumed that all the internal stuff took up 0.1 cu ft, so total gross internal volume is 1.1 cu ft.
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It's always about net internal volume, which is minus the bracing, the driver and any plate amp you may have in there... You'll have to ask Dayton for the volume taken up by the size of the driver itself. I can't find it on the datasheet.
Gotcha. Does it have to be perfect? I can use a similar drivers dimensions. I didn't do any bracing on the smaller 2 box I made. Plate amps are out of the box and in their own. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197537-o-audio-out-box.html
Gotcha. Does it have to be perfect? I can use a similar drivers dimensions. I didn't do any bracing on the smaller 2 box I made. Plate amps are out of the box and in their own. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197537-o-audio-out-box.html
In general, I believe the sealed box alignment is very forgiving. So, yeah, you can be off by a bit. Your 0.6 cu ft net is too small though. The datasheet has the dimensions on it. You can do a rough calculation from that. Consider the magnet a cylinder and the cone, well.. a cone, I guess I'd add a little for the basket also. Good luck and thanks for your enthusiasm!
a 10" driver displaces about .05ft^3 and yes a sealed box is forgiving and you can always add fluff and gain about 20% volume with ~2lb per ft^3
edit: when mastering for hip-hop and the like i bring a JL car-box into the studio to do sub duty as they have nuances that a "properly" designed sub does not (delayed transient response most importantly). Having a "squashed" sub will sound right for this kind of mixing.
edit: when mastering for hip-hop and the like i bring a JL car-box into the studio to do sub duty as they have nuances that a "properly" designed sub does not (delayed transient response most importantly). Having a "squashed" sub will sound right for this kind of mixing.
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a 10" driver displaces about .05ft^3 and yes a sealed box is forgiving and you can always add fluff and gain about 20% volume with ~2lb per ft^3
edit: when mastering for hip-hop and the like i bring a JL car-box into the studio to do sub duty as they have nuances that a "properly" designed sub does not (delayed transient response most importantly). Having a "squashed" sub will sound right for this kind of mixing.
I have a Definitive Technoligies Supercube I.... I use that to impress my hip-hop clients. Studio pictures by nonsuchpro - Photobucket
Sorry for the interuption, but that rack with the Chantler, Distressor, API, Matrix and that red 'cooker' looks more impressive to meI have a Definitive Technoligies Supercube I.... I use that to impress my hip-hop clients. Studio pictures by nonsuchpro - Photobucket
They are nice. I'm talking about listening to the music through similar equipment that will be used in common listening environments for hip-e-hop.
for example, if I mix a song in my 7.2 reference studio then play it back in a car set up for hip hop it sucks. But if I make the main console room 15'X8' into a "car" I get better results. I also have a sony Xplod boom box, and an ipod just for listening to MP3s through :shiver: ear pods :shiver:
for example, if I mix a song in my 7.2 reference studio then play it back in a car set up for hip hop it sucks. But if I make the main console room 15'X8' into a "car" I get better results. I also have a sony Xplod boom box, and an ipod just for listening to MP3s through :shiver: ear pods :shiver:
Sorry for the interuption, but that rack with the Chantler, Distressor, API, Matrix and that red 'cooker' looks more impressive to me
Lol, thanks. That rack is the heart of my recordings
They are nice. I'm talking about listening to the music through similar equipment that will be used in common listening environments for hip-e-hop.
for example, if I mix a song in my 7.2 reference studio then play it back in a car set up for hip hop it sucks. But if I make the main console room 15'X8' into a "car" I get better results. I also have a sony Xplod boom box, and an ipod just for listening to MP3s through :shiver: ear pods :shiver:
Understood. I have a Kenwood car sub I used to use for a while, I use it as a passive radiator now because it has a huge x-max. lol.
I saw those Xplods at walmart, any good?
How come whenever there's a thread about the desirability of "flat," the assembled elders conclude you gotta have Fletcher-Munson compensation (AKA "loudness" compensation). But in a construction thread like this, nobody ever dares to suggest than anything other than dead flat and low-as-you-can-go is necessary?
In other words, the more "musical" speaker might be the one with a gentle bass rise peaking at 38 Hz.
I am skeptical that T/S programs tell the whole story since moving the box a foot this way or that in a real room will change bass a whole lot (not just eigentones). In other words, the limitations of Enclosure A and the strengths of Enclosure B might reverse if A was strategically placed in the room and B not as good.
Also, in the absence of very sophisticated and exhaustive measurements, few of us really know what the output curve looks like*. So when we say, "gosh, that ported woofer sounds good" it may not be flat at all and that's why we like it.
In a world where tone controls are despised and sometimes absent, maybe the speakers need to do the compensating?
Ben
*we might have a just a kind of snapshot, although that is helpful for ongoing tuning studies
In other words, the more "musical" speaker might be the one with a gentle bass rise peaking at 38 Hz.
I am skeptical that T/S programs tell the whole story since moving the box a foot this way or that in a real room will change bass a whole lot (not just eigentones). In other words, the limitations of Enclosure A and the strengths of Enclosure B might reverse if A was strategically placed in the room and B not as good.
Also, in the absence of very sophisticated and exhaustive measurements, few of us really know what the output curve looks like*. So when we say, "gosh, that ported woofer sounds good" it may not be flat at all and that's why we like it.
In a world where tone controls are despised and sometimes absent, maybe the speakers need to do the compensating?
Ben
*we might have a just a kind of snapshot, although that is helpful for ongoing tuning studies
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In other words, the more "musical" speaker might be the one with a gentle bass rise peaking at 38 Hz.
I'd say the even more musical speaker is the one with flat response - listened to at the right volume. ;-)
Regards
Charles
I'd say the even more musical speaker is the one with flat response - listened to at the right volume. ;-)
Regards
Charles
That is technically correct as well as perceptive.
But ordinarily not feasible, even if you were willing to destroy neighborly relations and your hearing.
So I really do think a well set up system has a rising bass response, whether designed that way or just by getting lucky. No rising bass response will fit all "loudness" contours, but better something than nothing.
Ben
(wish I knew how to make those smileys)
Footnote: I know this will make many people cringe, but I keep my "loudness" control on all the time. My vintage pre-amp has one of those very complex loudness circuits that work as they should (tracking the loudness contours up and down) and I have enough controllable stages downstream to allow me to match the loudness circuit behavior to my hearing.
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