There is not that much to say. I don't think anyone did a direct comparison.
Both smps will do the job. Connexelectronic one is much smaller, is more efficient and has an auxiliary power. You can get the Connex at the voltage you want.
I cant think of any other smps giving as much at this price
Thanks a lot. Seems like the way to go!
While we are talking supplies can there be any problems (electrical noise, etc.) with mounting them in the same enclosure as the amp boards are in? Especially if they are closely spaced to the amps?
Thanks,
Rod
There is not that much to say. I don't think anyone did a direct comparison.
Both smps will do the job. Connexelectronic one is much smaller, is more efficient and has an auxiliary power. You can get the Connex at the voltage you want.
I cant think of any other smps giving as much at this price
Please someone correct me on this, but as far as I know:
- Meanwell SMPS are "older" tecnology, they have a switching frequency of about 25 kHz and less efficiency compared to the Connexelectronic
- Connexelectronic SMPS's are "newer" technology, they have a much higher switching frequency, somewhere around 100 kHz, and a much higher efficiency (90+%). It means that they require less cooling and are more reliable.
- Connexelectrinc PSUs are made with audio applications in mind, they have no active cooling, and are made by a guy present on this forum, called Cristi. He has a topic here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/connexelectronic/158604-switched-mode-power-supplies-smps-24.html
But I don't know anything else, and I'm before purchasing my first Hifimediy kit and SMPS, so these points are only the result of internet research, they are not actual experiences.
There's a photo earlier in this thread of my T1 Tripath amp installed in an all-aluminum case with a Connex SMPS500R-single. The two units were almost touching, yet I never heard interference.
A Connex power supply is twice as expensive as a Meanwell clone, but easier to install in a small case. The build quality seems higher, and the auxiliary power output is a nice extra. That said, a lot of people also report very good results using Meanwell knock-offs from E-Bay, so any differences in sound are probably minor (if they exist at all).
A Connex power supply is twice as expensive as a Meanwell clone, but easier to install in a small case. The build quality seems higher, and the auxiliary power output is a nice extra. That said, a lot of people also report very good results using Meanwell knock-offs from E-Bay, so any differences in sound are probably minor (if they exist at all).
I have several Meanwell SMPS that I have been using for audio projects since March 2008. After a couple of years the main power caps start to bulge. If you look inside the "brick" the design looks quite primitive. It's all on a single layer, through hole PCB that is quite thin. I don't think I will be getting more than 5 years out of one.
In comparison the ConnexElectronic SMPS250 I own looks much more advanced using dual layer thick PCB and SMD component, it's much more compact. Sound wise I don't hear any difference.
In comparison the ConnexElectronic SMPS250 I own looks much more advanced using dual layer thick PCB and SMD component, it's much more compact. Sound wise I don't hear any difference.
Really, do you know which model on the MW psu? I have used MeanWell open-PCB and DIN mount supplies for control pursposes and they all lloked more sophisticated than the stuff I normally see in audio, besides the Coldamp supplies. No failures on my side, yet they may be less taxed than one used as an audio supply and pushed commonly at its limits.
So what is the word on the newer T3 and TA3020 Hifimediy amps?? While I hear many positive things about the the TA3020 I have not found any reviews of the Hifi implementation of this chip. It seems if the ST-517B stage is good that the separate monoblock layout of the T3 may possibly produce better sound, with supply caps being separated off the board as well. I am looking to use these for active 3-ways, along with some T1 or T2's for the TM components.
Also has anyone compared the HiFi boards to the Sure v4 or the 41hz Amp2 or Amp8. I read 41hz is now using better output stages on the 2 and 8 instead of the older ST chips used on the HiFi. Has anybody swapped and/or heard these newer FET's, and any comments.
Thanks
Also has anyone compared the HiFi boards to the Sure v4 or the 41hz Amp2 or Amp8. I read 41hz is now using better output stages on the 2 and 8 instead of the older ST chips used on the HiFi. Has anybody swapped and/or heard these newer FET's, and any comments.
Thanks
Quite a few of the cheap Meanwell power supplies sold on E-Bay appear to be copies containing less expensive components. Maybe you were using genuine retail Meanwell units?
The main difference between the SMPS300R and various meanwe11 power supplies is the topology used, LLC resonant converter, which generate much less EMI, and has at least one fold efficiency increase (over 90% compared with around 75-80% the mw ones) that's why some peoples reported at least the same performances of any SMPSx00R series open frame, unshielded compared with bullet proof shield found on most Meanwell power supplies.
The genuine Meanwell power supplies are superior quality than the ones found for sale on various locations, but they come price tag significantly different than the first ones. yet, for the brick ones, the technology is not much different, they are based on the same classic schematic which was used in most of the ATX power supplies from late 1980's till recent knock-off 5 usd silver box ATX power supplies. TL494 controller, driver transformer and 2 bipolar transistors most often with generic name 13007. the switching frequency is low, around 22-30KHz and requires heavy EMI filtering to not become an RF jammer. The cheaper ones, non-genuine are the result of the tight competition between various "manufacturers" where the low cost is the main target. they had to find any possible mean to bring the cost down otherwise they might vanish from the market. this mean a poor or non-existing R&D department to save cost, ripping an existing design instead, use the cheapest possible components, some of them with inferior quality, and/or fake markings (13009 instead of 13007), use a bare iron toroid on EMI filters and wound the transformer using aluminium wire instead copper (is 4-5 times cheaper and requires just 1.5 times more section) solder the pcb's with lead instead solder alloy, and many others. they can be found under various brands such as Meanwe11 or Me@nwell or whatever, the logo is almost identical just a small difference in the spelling to not be claimed as a clone.
A while ago i met somebody in the electronic market who bought 100 pcs of such power supplies at a ridiculous low price and he asked the seller to not apply the stickers cuz later he will apply other stickers identical with the genuine power supplies, and sell them as original.
Somewhere on their website, meanwell had a notice which warn customers about existence of these power supplies and some simple steps to identify them.
The genuine Meanwell power supplies are superior quality than the ones found for sale on various locations, but they come price tag significantly different than the first ones. yet, for the brick ones, the technology is not much different, they are based on the same classic schematic which was used in most of the ATX power supplies from late 1980's till recent knock-off 5 usd silver box ATX power supplies. TL494 controller, driver transformer and 2 bipolar transistors most often with generic name 13007. the switching frequency is low, around 22-30KHz and requires heavy EMI filtering to not become an RF jammer. The cheaper ones, non-genuine are the result of the tight competition between various "manufacturers" where the low cost is the main target. they had to find any possible mean to bring the cost down otherwise they might vanish from the market. this mean a poor or non-existing R&D department to save cost, ripping an existing design instead, use the cheapest possible components, some of them with inferior quality, and/or fake markings (13009 instead of 13007), use a bare iron toroid on EMI filters and wound the transformer using aluminium wire instead copper (is 4-5 times cheaper and requires just 1.5 times more section) solder the pcb's with lead instead solder alloy, and many others. they can be found under various brands such as Meanwe11 or Me@nwell or whatever, the logo is almost identical just a small difference in the spelling to not be claimed as a clone.
A while ago i met somebody in the electronic market who bought 100 pcs of such power supplies at a ridiculous low price and he asked the seller to not apply the stickers cuz later he will apply other stickers identical with the genuine power supplies, and sell them as original.
Somewhere on their website, meanwell had a notice which warn customers about existence of these power supplies and some simple steps to identify them.
Cristi is right.
I don't know much about topology and stuff, but at work, i noticed that some machines have meanwell psus in them. Like this one. And beleive me, that machine costs a LOT, so i'm pretty sure that genuine mean well is top notch quality.
Only problem with mine is: it's too big
I don't know much about topology and stuff, but at work, i noticed that some machines have meanwell psus in them. Like this one. And beleive me, that machine costs a LOT, so i'm pretty sure that genuine mean well is top notch quality.
Only problem with mine is: it's too big
Hi Cristi,
It looks like the MeanWell's that Hifi is selling are the old S-Series with lower efficiency and much lower switching. Where as the newer SE-Series are near 90% efficient and operate at 90kHz switching vs. 25kHz on the old S-series. The figures on the SE are what I associate with MW supply's, and since the ones I've bought are from reputable US electronics distributors it probably explains why I've never had issues.
I know you're a competitor to Hifi, but was wondering if you feel your newest SMPS-300W is enough for a HiFi T3? Are your designs tested for any EN standards? Is the 300W derated from a higher wattage based on passive vs. active cooling, if so what is the rated wattage w/ active cooling and CFM flow required?
Secondly,
Anybody out there using the HiFi T3 or TA3020? Has anybody compared then to the Truepath or Amp 2 (TK2350) amps? Looks like we need a 300W T-Amp shootout.
It looks like the MeanWell's that Hifi is selling are the old S-Series with lower efficiency and much lower switching. Where as the newer SE-Series are near 90% efficient and operate at 90kHz switching vs. 25kHz on the old S-series. The figures on the SE are what I associate with MW supply's, and since the ones I've bought are from reputable US electronics distributors it probably explains why I've never had issues.
I know you're a competitor to Hifi, but was wondering if you feel your newest SMPS-300W is enough for a HiFi T3? Are your designs tested for any EN standards? Is the 300W derated from a higher wattage based on passive vs. active cooling, if so what is the rated wattage w/ active cooling and CFM flow required?
Secondly,
Anybody out there using the HiFi T3 or TA3020? Has anybody compared then to the Truepath or Amp 2 (TK2350) amps? Looks like we need a 300W T-Amp shootout.
@donka : Yes the meanwell S series is old. They are not officially sold out of China (not compliant with EU or US regulations). The other meanwell series are better, and significantly more expensive.
search for Bernie7 posts in this topic. He has T3 and published pictures. Haven't seen anyone doing A/B comparison with TA3020 yet. tk2350 is rarely seen.
@jtjy : just turn the pot at full volume and you're done
If you think it makes a difference, unsolder or short the pot.
search for Bernie7 posts in this topic. He has T3 and published pictures. Haven't seen anyone doing A/B comparison with TA3020 yet. tk2350 is rarely seen.
@jtjy : just turn the pot at full volume and you're done
If you think it makes a difference, unsolder or short the pot.
Im about to buy a Hifimediy T1 amp without volume pot since it is going into a ghettoblaster and the volume will be adjusted via mp3-player. Does this amplifier require me to install some of my own volumepots or will it work without it?
Is it also possible to change input impendance so that it i will get enough power out of the amp with an mp3-player. I did this with the V1 amp as hifimediy instructed me to do and works great.
Is it also possible to change input impendance so that it i will get enough power out of the amp with an mp3-player. I did this with the V1 amp as hifimediy instructed me to do and works great.
You don't need a volume pot.
You also don't need to change the input impedance
You might - MIGHT - want to change the gain, if the mp3 player doesn't play loud enough. But I think it will be OK though. (If you want to change the gain, you have to swap two resistors.)Finally I assembled my T1 STA510 + meanwell 350. I have small kids so I put them directly on the chassis for safety reason. Finished at 02:00 AM, it didn't turn on at first try then I realized that the power supply polarity was reversed.
The bass is better than expectation. But the mid is too much and the high is kinda muffled. I listened it again this morning, and it still sound the same. I believe that some burn in will solve all those problems. Mine has Wima as input caps.
One problem: the heatshink gets very hot after only couple of minutes. Is it normal ?
Next step will be to swap the Alps to attenuator and input caps to PIO K75 which receives very good review on this amp in one french hifi forum (pointed by one of poster here, I'm glad I can speak french). The one recommended is 2.2uf 500v but I can only find 250v, will there be any penalty on the sound compared to 500v version ?
Then put in some good quality connectors. My plan is to have a full digital music system : PC with Vortexbox OS playing FLACs > DAC > Tripath Amp.
Thanks to Nick & hifimediy crew for great support & service (the package reached my country from China in only 4 days, but stranded in local post office for nearly 2 weeks !!!)
The bass is better than expectation. But the mid is too much and the high is kinda muffled. I listened it again this morning, and it still sound the same. I believe that some burn in will solve all those problems. Mine has Wima as input caps.
One problem: the heatshink gets very hot after only couple of minutes. Is it normal ?
Next step will be to swap the Alps to attenuator and input caps to PIO K75 which receives very good review on this amp in one french hifi forum (pointed by one of poster here, I'm glad I can speak french). The one recommended is 2.2uf 500v but I can only find 250v, will there be any penalty on the sound compared to 500v version ?
Then put in some good quality connectors. My plan is to have a full digital music system : PC with Vortexbox OS playing FLACs > DAC > Tripath Amp.
Thanks to Nick & hifimediy crew for great support & service (the package reached my country from China in only 4 days, but stranded in local post office for nearly 2 weeks !!!)
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These amps get warm even when iddle. My T2 goes up to 45°C. It seems hot when you put your fingers on it, but it's ok and lot of margin versus chip specs.
500V are hard to find. From time to time, some are available on eaby.
Some people have tried both 250 and 500V and found a difference. Minimal though.
merci bcp alkasar, knowing the heat is normal now I can sleep well.
Fortunately, I just found PIO K75 2.2uf 500v locally for just about 20$ a pair delivered. C'est pas cher non ?
a+ et bon weekend.
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They won't make any difference that you can measure. Besides $20 is a lot of nasi goreng in Indonesia ;-)
col.
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