"The Wire" Ultra-High Performance Headphone Amplifier - PCB's

This is how I learned how to do SMD: YouTube - Surface Mount Soldering 101
I highly recommend all the items pictured, particularly the flux pen. Flux helps "pull" the solder into the joint, when you have a tiny ball of it on the tip of your iron.
Hello,
Excellent tutorial thank you, that bit about adding solder to the iron has been one of the don’t ask don’t tell secrets of soldering. I won’t tell.
The Hako 936 with the adjustable temperature setting is new to me. For 63Sn 37Pb solder what setting do you old hands use?
DT
All just for fun!
 

opc

Member
Joined 2004
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Hi Guys,

The majority of the kits have shipped, but I was a bit late getting everything out.

I've attached a finalized list with the shipping status of all the kits. I should have the remaining kits out by tomorrow if all goes well.

I'm not sure about arrival time line, but I would guess a few people will get theirs by the end of the week, but likely into next week or longer if you're outside North America. Anyone in Ottawa got their kits at the Ottawa audio fest.


N-Brock:

Can you share your progress so far? Have you found anything that will work as a chassis?

I was thinking of using one of those prefab aluminum extrusions and cutting it to length using a non-ferrous blade. That way I could fit a standard front and back to it and use the existing on-board connectors.

Something like this:

Penn-Elcom R1196/100 Heat Sink Box 3.54" x 2.0" x 4" L | Parts-Express.com
Penn-Elcom R1198 End Plate For R1196 Heat Sink Box | Parts-Express.com

Just cut the extrusion to length (2.7") cut the proper holes in the front and back plates, and use a regular XLR jack/cable to provide power from an outboard supply in a slightly longer case to make room for the toroid.

Cheers,
Owen
 

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Hi Guys,

Can you share your progress so far? Have you found anything that will work as a chassis?

I modeled a case that would fit everything because I'm getting tired of separate PSUs. I went out to my shop and started cutting aluminum, thankfully I'm lucky enough to have a mill, and by now I've nearly completed the case. Just the connections in the back panel and the mounting holes on the bottom to drill. I am planning to paint the milled out portions of the front panel dark blue and replace the phillips screws will allens. The whole thing is 6 3/8" by 5 7/8" by 1 7/8". Pics below.

It sure sounds like what you propose for your case will work, I considered it, but still wanted a single case for this project.

-Nelson
 

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I modeled a case that would fit everything because I'm getting tired of separate PSUs. I went out to my shop and started cutting aluminum, thankfully I'm lucky enough to have a mill, and by now I've nearly completed the case. Just the connections in the back panel and the mounting holes on the bottom to drill. I am planning to paint the milled out portions of the front panel dark blue and replace the phillips screws will allens. The whole thing is 6 3/8" by 5 7/8" by 1 7/8". Pics below.

It sure sounds like what you propose for your case will work, I considered it, but still wanted a single case for this project.

-Nelson

Looks good :)
 

opc

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Hi Guys,

Well, every last kit is now officially shipped! The last few went out this evening.

I've attached a list with all the shipping dates and final order changes.

N-Brock:

Very nice case work! Without access to a mill or CNC, my case is going to be significantly less impressive. I did find some really cool extruded aluminum cases here though:

Box Enclosures - Product

They're very cheap, come in a bunch of colours, and the B4-080 is the perfect size of you have a small enough transformer. The entire amp and PSU would fit nicely in that case.

I'll keep everyone posted on any progress, but I expect it to be pretty slow on my end. I need a break after all that kit packing!

Cheers,
Owen
 

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opc

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Joined 2004
Paid Member
Hi ferynov,

All the boards and kits have sold, and the GB is now closed. Sorry, but you're a little too late.

If I ever do another one, it will likely be a bridged version using a pair of LME49600 per channel, each driven by a single LME49990. It would require balanced input and headphones setup for bridged output (independent wires to each driver, and a 4 pin connector)

Regards,
Owen
 
If I ever do another one, it will likely be a bridged version using a pair of LME49600 per channel, each driven by a single LME49990. It would require balanced input and headphones setup for bridged output (independent wires to each driver, and a 4 pin connector)
Hi Owen,
Would you consider using an OPA1632(THS4131) + 2x LME49600 for fully symmetric, balanced operation.
 

opc

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
pidesd:

Glad to hear it made it there safely! I guess with you only being a few hours away, it would make sense that you would get yours first.

I had no idea what on earth you were talking about with holes and pads, until at looked at the PCB. Now it makes sense... you're talking about all the caps having vias attached to their pads.

From what I can see, you are indeed correct. Every pad with a via on it is for a cap. I routed all the rails on the bottom of the board, and brought each supply up to the top pins through a via.

Let me know how the assembly goes! It should be a one night job.

dggs:

I'm not sure how what you're requesting is any different than what I suggested with the two LME49990 and two LME49600, other than a different op-amp in the front end. I tend to prefer single package op-amps since most of the best op-amps out there come in single pack form factor only. Using a bespoke dual op-amp part would really limit people's options if they wanted to try something else.

Also, the performance of that op-amp isn't quite as good as the LME49990, so I'm not sure what the benefit would be. Maybe you can elaborate?

Regards,
Owen