Well at a guess paint stripper will get the paint off the arm tube
and Duraglit (or metal polish) should bring it up a treat, though
you may have to lacquer it to keep the high polish finish.
WD40D seems a good bet to wash out the bearings and leave
some film protection after all this, which you should of course
keep covered / sealed as much as possible, wax is good for
this - use organic solvent when you've finished, then WD40.
JMO but I think the bearings are press fit, destroyed removal.
sreten.
and Duraglit (or metal polish) should bring it up a treat, though
you may have to lacquer it to keep the high polish finish.
WD40D seems a good bet to wash out the bearings and leave
some film protection after all this, which you should of course
keep covered / sealed as much as possible, wax is good for
this - use organic solvent when you've finished, then WD40.
JMO but I think the bearings are press fit, destroyed removal.
sreten..... there may well be better cablin avaliable, but the problem is that fitting it means disassambling the tonearm. Given that without correct tools and jigs it`s almost impossible to reconstruct the bearings or dress the cables to correct tolerances, they feel (REGA team) that the loss of performance will more than undermine any potential benefits.
Taken from HI-FI+ Issue 27 - Nov/Dec 2003, article by Chris Binns after Rega factory tour. He is talking about one of the most important wievs of tonearm production, that is putting together the bearing and tensioning, which require specially developed jigs and a lot of skill and practice. He said that REGA would be happy to provide the tools and training necessary to assamble the tonearm corectlly (services, dealers.... I supouse), but only company which have taken them up on the offer was Michell Engineering. They do fit Incognito wireing, and the writer of the article feel that that is only worthwhile and costeffective way to do the mode.
I know that people do that mode as a DIY project , I just wanted to point you to an interesting article, talking about that, that the tone arm is extremly precise piece of equipment, and that reassembling can couse a lot of problems when not taken corectlly. It woud be a waste of money I think.
BTW: I`m allso considering rewireing of my RB300 and I was allso warned by a friend, who hapend to know a lott more them me about that mather
Best regards
Taken from HI-FI+ Issue 27 - Nov/Dec 2003, article by Chris Binns after Rega factory tour. He is talking about one of the most important wievs of tonearm production, that is putting together the bearing and tensioning, which require specially developed jigs and a lot of skill and practice. He said that REGA would be happy to provide the tools and training necessary to assamble the tonearm corectlly (services, dealers.... I supouse), but only company which have taken them up on the offer was Michell Engineering. They do fit Incognito wireing, and the writer of the article feel that that is only worthwhile and costeffective way to do the mode.
I know that people do that mode as a DIY project , I just wanted to point you to an interesting article, talking about that, that the tone arm is extremly precise piece of equipment, and that reassembling can couse a lot of problems when not taken corectlly. It woud be a waste of money I think.
BTW: I`m allso considering rewireing of my RB300 and I was allso warned by a friend, who hapend to know a lott more them me about that mather
Best regards
well it has gone back together, and feels OK. I'm not worried about the rewire, maybe some fetling involved but i rekon i can do that.
Sreten,
Yep i have adjusted many bearings, working in the electrical motor industry (not now tho) i have used many different types, from taper roller to needle etc. Not trying to show off, just pointing out that i have experience of bearings. Now its back together it feels OK.
I appreciate your help, many thanks
Sreten,
Yep i have adjusted many bearings, working in the electrical motor industry (not now tho) i have used many different types, from taper roller to needle etc. Not trying to show off, just pointing out that i have experience of bearings. Now its back together it feels OK.
I appreciate your help, many thanks
I'm not remotely implying you don't understand bearings
but that you may not understand tonearm requirements.
From what you say it feels better now its put back together,
so at least experience correlates rather than expectation.
Tone-arm bearings need to be as rigid as possible, and thats
about it, load bearing and eccentricity forces are irrelevant.
Having adjusted tone arm bearings - its a question of getting
how bad they they are friction wise versus rigidity - i'd say
you can get away with ~ 15% of tracking forces leverage.
sreten.
but that you may not understand tonearm requirements.
From what you say it feels better now its put back together,
so at least experience correlates rather than expectation.
Tone-arm bearings need to be as rigid as possible, and thats
about it, load bearing and eccentricity forces are irrelevant.
Having adjusted tone arm bearings - its a question of getting
how bad they they are friction wise versus rigidity - i'd say
you can get away with ~ 15% of tracking forces leverage.
sreten.Just to add -
My confusion came from the nut on the force adjust side, it looked like 2 nuts, ie 1 nut 1 locking. I couldnt see it very well, turns out it is a single nut like a tube with hex at each end. Sreten is right, once this nut and the other side have been removed it is clear that the bearing sits in a steel tube that is a press fit to the arm.
My confusion came from the nut on the force adjust side, it looked like 2 nuts, ie 1 nut 1 locking. I couldnt see it very well, turns out it is a single nut like a tube with hex at each end. Sreten is right, once this nut and the other side have been removed it is clear that the bearing sits in a steel tube that is a press fit to the arm.
sreten said:
got it in one
I was stuck on the tonearm requirments for the bearing.
I understand what you were saying now, and in light of that it seems obvious that a tonearm bearing may feel rough due to the little wieght it carries. Not like bearings i have used in the past, carrying tones of rotor.
marijan said:
It can be done without disassembly of the arm on the RB300/600/700/900/1000. Not sure about the RB250, though, and it really can be a pain indeed.
Michell do not fit Incognito. They fit proprietary silver litz in teflon.
Only the first-version TecnoArm featured Incognito. From the (a)-version on it was mainland-sourced silver.
Rewiring of a 250 can be done without disassembling the arm: http://www.hi-fi.com/diy/rega/steps.html.
I've done that but I damaged the silver wire in the process. This way you can't control how the wiring goes through the rubber parts and I strongly recommend to get the arm out of the horizontal bearings when you rewire it.
You can get the arm out and back in quite easy (providing you use the right size screwdriver) and there is nothing to adjust, so I'm not sure what the Regay people mean.
It LOOKS like the bearings are standard industry bearings, and probably not the best. They probably can be swapped with high quality ceramic bearings of the same size. I don't think rega has the bearings custom made but I think they got the brass nuts custom made. Gettin the old bearings out is a more risky job than getting the new ones back in.
I've done that but I damaged the silver wire in the process. This way you can't control how the wiring goes through the rubber parts and I strongly recommend to get the arm out of the horizontal bearings when you rewire it.
You can get the arm out and back in quite easy (providing you use the right size screwdriver) and there is nothing to adjust, so I'm not sure what the Regay people mean.
It LOOKS like the bearings are standard industry bearings, and probably not the best. They probably can be swapped with high quality ceramic bearings of the same size. I don't think rega has the bearings custom made but I think they got the brass nuts custom made. Gettin the old bearings out is a more risky job than getting the new ones back in.
Hi,
A blast from my probably more belligerent past.
However I think you'll find it is the USA that has not kept up with
modern standards, and have archaic "standards", everything on
Rega's AFAIK is totally metric ISO "standard", nothing unusual.
rgds, sreten.
Whitworth, BA etc. are a thing of the past in the UK,
though e.g. the Whitworth 1/4" lives on for cameras,
some de facto standards simply cannot be changed.
A blast from my probably more belligerent past.
However I think you'll find it is the USA that has not kept up with
modern standards, and have archaic "standards", everything on
Rega's AFAIK is totally metric ISO "standard", nothing unusual.
rgds, sreten.
Whitworth, BA etc. are a thing of the past in the UK,
though e.g. the Whitworth 1/4" lives on for cameras,
some de facto standards simply cannot be changed.
I tried M4x0.7 screws & nuts the thread pitch is visibly different, and they bind after ~1 turn
I tried 8-32, but no luck.
I found that there is an M4x0.5 "fine thread" standard. I measured off a few mm & counted the threads on the rega arm now that I know its not M4x0.7, and I'm fairly sure thats it. Metric & Multistandard lists availability for this size tap so I'l give them a ring after new years.
I tried 8-32, but no luck.
I found that there is an M4x0.5 "fine thread" standard. I measured off a few mm & counted the threads on the rega arm now that I know its not M4x0.7, and I'm fairly sure thats it. Metric & Multistandard lists availability for this size tap so I'l give them a ring after new years.
Depends on the industry and specific manufacturer, those with significant international business mostly went metric long ago, others have kept to our archaic standards - worse some mix and match.. My last contract gig was with a medical electronics company that used both - very confusing.
Most hardware stores stock a limited selection of metric fasteners, but usually aren't a whole lot better with the non-metric parts.
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