Vertical Grain and Cut Sheets
I noticed that Chris's drawing for the cut sheets show the grain changing 90 degrees relative to the long dimension for the top and bottom compared to the sides. Is this to simplify the cut sheet and maximize the wood? Alternatively, is this an aesthetic consideration?
My inclination is to have the vertical grain aligned to the long dimensions for the top and bottom the same as for the sides, back, and baffle. Is there an additional consideration that I, not being a woodworker, don't know about?
I noticed that Chris's drawing for the cut sheets show the grain changing 90 degrees relative to the long dimension for the top and bottom compared to the sides. Is this to simplify the cut sheet and maximize the wood? Alternatively, is this an aesthetic consideration?
My inclination is to have the vertical grain aligned to the long dimensions for the top and bottom the same as for the sides, back, and baffle. Is there an additional consideration that I, not being a woodworker, don't know about?
Thanks for commenting. A problem is that I don't have a feel for the looks. What would look better, keeping the vertical grain aligned to the long dimension for all external surfaces or mixing it up and having the vertical grain aligned with the short dimension for the top? In my mind, it would be more elegant to keep the vertical grain consistently in the long dimension. I realize that I have to answer this for myself. Still, what would a woodworker do?
Chris usually orients the grain on the top so that it looks like the sides are continuaously grained. But, given that we almost always veneer, it only matters at that stage.
dave
I need to verify my health insurance benefits. Hiro is only 10.5" wide at 6 ft. Slender but densely athletic. I agree, best bet to go with the vertical grain in the long dimensions paired with a diagonal grain cradling the speaker and forming a downward "V" on the baffle mid-line.
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One might have guessed about someone knowing his way in old Porsche engines - no way doing it the easy way.My name is Karl Granat, and I am new to this group. I live in Salem, Oregon, USA.
I have an unfortunate problem for someone who loves music... my hearing is being lost, and part of the problem is my present stereo system needs to be played at high DB levels in order to hear detail. (The other part of this problem is hereditary.)
Someone whose opinion I value greatly has recommend the Sachiko speaker as being made for my problem. This is due to the Sachiko's ability to reproduce a relatively high level of detail at low DB levels. From his account, and nearly all the reviews and opinions that I have read that seems to be the case.
The speakers are rather large, but I think that they appear to be pretty straightforward in their assembly.
A few questions:
1) is there an advantage to having the 'stair step' ramp at the top and bottom of the horn in order to direct the sound into the listening room as opposed to having a regular slanted board to reflect sound waves into the listening area.
2) if I use birch plywood, should it be sanded first in addition to the sanding that is done at the plywood plant.
3) should the plywood be stained prior to assembly in order to minimize the absorption of water from the air? (I am wondering about the plywood in the speaker warping over time.)
4) What kind of glue are people using to put these together- regular carpenters glue?
I have read all the pages of posts in this thread and I feel like I have learned a lot already.
Thank you-
Karl
I have an unfortunate problem for someone who loves music... my hearing is being lost, and part of the problem is my present stereo system needs to be played at high DB levels in order to hear detail. (The other part of this problem is hereditary.)
Someone whose opinion I value greatly has recommend the Sachiko speaker as being made for my problem. This is due to the Sachiko's ability to reproduce a relatively high level of detail at low DB levels. From his account, and nearly all the reviews and opinions that I have read that seems to be the case.
The speakers are rather large, but I think that they appear to be pretty straightforward in their assembly.
A few questions:
1) is there an advantage to having the 'stair step' ramp at the top and bottom of the horn in order to direct the sound into the listening room as opposed to having a regular slanted board to reflect sound waves into the listening area.
2) if I use birch plywood, should it be sanded first in addition to the sanding that is done at the plywood plant.
3) should the plywood be stained prior to assembly in order to minimize the absorption of water from the air? (I am wondering about the plywood in the speaker warping over time.)
4) What kind of glue are people using to put these together- regular carpenters glue?
I have read all the pages of posts in this thread and I feel like I have learned a lot already.
Thank you-
Karl
Hi Karl, Oregon is a wonderful state except when, as a hippie, you find yourself broken down in Burns with no money. I use to camp on the Deschutes River outside of LaPine.
Regarding the stepped deflectors; I am about to build Hiro (9" wide Sachiko) and have decided on using the stepped deflectors. Let me preface this decision by saying I have not built a cabinet in nearly 50 years since 8th grade wood shop. I like the aesthetics of the stepped deflectors but beyond that, the stepped deflectors have a much greater surface area for gluing. The deflectors may provide support to the cabinet walls beyond what might be expected of the panel deflector. Right or wrong, this enters into my decision.
Similar to you, I have a hearing problem (tinnitus) where I am hoping to achieve detail at lower volume than may be achieved with more mainstream gear.
So you were stranded in Burns! Not a real hippie friendly town in the 70's and 80's- or now for that matter.
<< I like the aesthetics of the stepped deflectors but beyond that, the stepped deflectors have a much greater surface area for gluing.>>
I like the appearance better too.
The thing that throws me is that it seems like the sound waves would predominately be sent back into the throat of the chamber rather than deflecting the sound waves out to the listening area.
Other than that, my wife has given her tentative OK to the project, so I am going to see a cabinet maker.
Are you going to build the whole thing or have a cabinet maker cut out the pieces for you?
Karl
<< I like the aesthetics of the stepped deflectors but beyond that, the stepped deflectors have a much greater surface area for gluing.>>
I like the appearance better too.
The thing that throws me is that it seems like the sound waves would predominately be sent back into the throat of the chamber rather than deflecting the sound waves out to the listening area.
Other than that, my wife has given her tentative OK to the project, so I am going to see a cabinet maker.
Are you going to build the whole thing or have a cabinet maker cut out the pieces for you?
Karl
The night in Burns was a story to tell. The irony was that I was a ranch hand at the time and perhaps more cowboy than anyone who behaved aggressively toward me.
I am reaching a compromise. Just today I talked to a cabinet maker regarding cutting the wood and whether simple butt joints would suffice for Hiro. I showed him the Sachiko plans. He thought that butt joints and glue would be adequate. Further, he gave me the name of someone who he thought could cut the wood at better than 1mm accuracy.
I also hunted down a bunch of clamps to borrow. My plan is to have a cabinet maker cut the wood and I will do the cabinet construction, wiring, and finishing. At first I planed to build the cabinet in my backyard patio but then I started fretting over 8% humidity and warpage. I am clearing out the dining room to make space for an indoor climate controlled wood gluing shop. I don't have WAF concerns, thus, the dining room is about to become history.
At the frequencies that get that far in the horn, the wavelength is so long that the steps are "smooth"
dave
Use a good vacuum tube amp! I was converted when i tried my first tube amp, a 45wpc push pull, Conrad Johnson mv55 (or 45 i forget). I've since had a UK Audio Note 300b (not the good ones), Wavelength 300b and currently keep a old HH Scott 222c and Fi2A3.
Some hifi mag reviews of commercially marketed tube amps specifically note the low level resolution and satisfaction at low listening levels. I spent way to much time reading reviews and auditioning gear armed with a sound pressure meter.
Best to try before you buy even if it's only to get a idea of what type of circuit and tube you'll prefer for your desired result. I also think you'll be pleased with Scott L's speaker design.
Wrt deflectors, i used the slant to save weight. Imo and completely "swag", a ~1.5" dowel placed around midpoint in the two mouths will achieve the stiffer structure you're hopping to gain from having the steps. Also the labyrinth structure goes a long way to that end. It would be interesting to attach a accelerometer to some that are out there to compare notes and for possible improvement ideas.
Dave,
Thanks for the input- I will continue to reflect on the subject of the deflector as a single piece of plywood, or a series of steps... I have noticed that most of the higher end speakers with this type of setup have the steps.
IAE,
I notice that you are a moderator of this forum.
Be sure to pass on to the others who run this site as well as yourself that this site is an absolute Godsend to we who are new to high end audio! Thanks so much for the work you have done.
Thanks for your ideas on the stairstep. I may do it that way just because most of the people have this setup for the deflecting portion of the Sachiko, and I noticed that the commercial people have this setup generally too. If it harmed the sound in any way, I doubt that it would the common setup.
MP9,
I am going to get a good vacume tube amp- the ones from China are the least expensive. I have read many of the brands from there are not reliable, a few brands I have heard are, but I may have to compromise on price at first to mollify my wife for a while until I save up some money for a first rate vacuum tube unit costing about $2K. The vacuum tube amp is critical to bring out the strengths of this unit though.
Thanks To All-
Karl
Thanks for the input- I will continue to reflect on the subject of the deflector as a single piece of plywood, or a series of steps... I have noticed that most of the higher end speakers with this type of setup have the steps.
IAE,
I notice that you are a moderator of this forum.
Be sure to pass on to the others who run this site as well as yourself that this site is an absolute Godsend to we who are new to high end audio! Thanks so much for the work you have done.
Thanks for your ideas on the stairstep. I may do it that way just because most of the people have this setup for the deflecting portion of the Sachiko, and I noticed that the commercial people have this setup generally too. If it harmed the sound in any way, I doubt that it would the common setup.
MP9,
I am going to get a good vacume tube amp- the ones from China are the least expensive. I have read many of the brands from there are not reliable, a few brands I have heard are, but I may have to compromise on price at first to mollify my wife for a while until I save up some money for a first rate vacuum tube unit costing about $2K. The vacuum tube amp is critical to bring out the strengths of this unit though.
Thanks To All-
Karl
I'm considering building the half Chang and it has the option for the step vs a flat panel at the bottom. Acoustically I have no idea of the differences between the two options. The steps would add weight and structurally integrity to the cab for sure. If I do go with the flat panel I'll probably fill the space behind it with expanding foam to avoid any sort of resonance/harmonic issue. I've even thought about opening the space up from the rear which would allow removable weights to be placed in that space, such as a bag of sand just to ensure speaker cab stays put and doesn't tip over. Just a few thoughts.
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When I build my Sachiko, I am going to put a double thickness of plywood on the front panel where the speaker is.
I assume that I should equal that extra 3/4" on the top, bottom, and sides of the speaker so they will be of equal depth- right?
The speaker plug inputs should be gold plated I am sure.... does anyone have any thoughts as to brands, or does it make any difference?
Karl
I assume that I should equal that extra 3/4" on the top, bottom, and sides of the speaker so they will be of equal depth- right?
The speaker plug inputs should be gold plated I am sure.... does anyone have any thoughts as to brands, or does it make any difference?
Karl
Karl,
If you add an extra 3/4" to the baffle it should be proud of the cabinet.
As to terminals, you'll find lots of opinion. Gold plating is pretty but often a joke how it is done. I also like to avoid 5-way posts with metal nuts, prefering plastic. Also avoid the Chinese WBT knockoffs (i avoid the official WBTs as well -- if i'm gonna spend that kind of money (unlikely) i'd get Eichmann).
dave
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