You need a company selling general spares rather than manufacturer specific. Measure the old belt for starters,
In the UK
Search Results | CPC
are usually pretty good.
In the UK
Search Results | CPC
are usually pretty good.
Well, the switches and the belt arrived this morning and now I'm ready for surgery!
This being my first DIY effort I was wondering if anyone had some advice for me on procedures, etc. ?
I have the service manual printed out with great diagrams and the tools but I don't even know if I have to remove the transporter or if I can replace the belt and leaf switches without doing that.
All advice much appreciated
This being my first DIY effort I was wondering if anyone had some advice for me on procedures, etc. ?
I have the service manual printed out with great diagrams and the tools but I don't even know if I have to remove the transporter or if I can replace the belt and leaf switches without doing that.
All advice much appreciated
Hi Russell,
The symptoms won't go away, even with extended unplugged time, so hopefully I have the solution(s)....
Well, I have opened her up and unplugged the two connectors to the transport mechanism The main white ribbon cable seems to be soldered in place. I can see that one of the two leaf switches is weak and bent back which is what might be the source of the problem. I can't however get at them (3rd pic on the right side) to replace both as I can't seem to figure out how to get the tray off. It seems to be bolted somehow at the end where the main door is I have attached a couple of (bad ) pics. Do I have to undo the 4 screws (2nd pic) with springs on them on the bottom of the transport? I will take some better pics a bit later....
All help welcome!
Dave
All help welcome!
Dave
Attachments
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The white foil connector... it just plugs in. Depending on the socket there may or may not be a retaining "bar" that has to be loosened (flicked up). Be very careful not to rip the foil, grip it tightly and over as large an area as possible near the socket and gentle pull each end to waggle it out. I would do it at the laser end. Hard to see in the piccy but the laser socket looks like it might have a clamp... can you see at the top of the socket. There may be plastic lugs or wings holding it... just gently prise them and the bar releases.
If you undo the four screws the whole sub chassis drops out. Sometimes the springs are different front to rear (depends on the design/weight etc) so don't mix them up.
It's difficult without having it actually in front of me to give exact step by step instructions... it looks like a million others
... and it's usually easiest just to dismantle fully.
Having said all that and looking again, to replace the microswitches it might be easier to just unsolder the PCB from the loading motor (use braid and don't overheat the connections as the motor "end plate" is nylon), and remove the PCB with switches still attached and then work on it from there
If you undo the four screws the whole sub chassis drops out. Sometimes the springs are different front to rear (depends on the design/weight etc) so don't mix them up.
It's difficult without having it actually in front of me to give exact step by step instructions... it looks like a million others
... and it's usually easiest just to dismantle fully. Having said all that and looking again, to replace the microswitches it might be easier to just unsolder the PCB from the loading motor (use braid and don't overheat the connections as the motor "end plate" is nylon), and remove the PCB with switches still attached and then work on it from there
The white foil connector... it just plugs in. Depending on the socket there may or may not be a retaining "bar" that has to be loosened (flicked up). Be very careful not to rip the foil, grip it tightly and over as large an area as possible near the socket and gentle pull each end to waggle it out. I would do it at the laser end. Hard to see in the piccy but the laser socket looks like it might have a clamp... can you see at the top of the socket. There may be plastic lugs or wings holding it... just gently prise them and the bar releases.
If you undo the four screws the whole sub chassis drops out. Sometimes the springs are different front to rear (depends on the design/weight etc) so don't mix them up.
It's difficult without having it actually in front of me to give exact step by step instructions... it looks like a million others
Having said all that and looking again, to replace the microswitches it might be easier to just unsolder the PCB from the loading motor (use braid and don't overheat the connections as the motor "end plate" is nylon), and remove the PCB with switches still attached and then work on it from there
Hi Mooly,
the ribbon doesn't unplug, it seems to be soldered at both ends, no clamp or "retaining bar". Got the laser chassis out (screws carefully put aside)but it doesn't so me much good. The leaf switches are still a pain to get at without opening the drawer mechanism. You're right, it needs to be unsoldered to get at it which means I now have to give myself a crash course in soldering! Never done it before.....
That still leaves me though with getting at the belt to replace it (to make sure it isn't the problem and I can't do that without uncovering the underneath of the drawer mechanism. I will take better pictures tonight and post them.
thanks!
D
Like this,
Edit... I'll look in tomorrow... don't rip that foil
Thanks Mooly! Yep, that's the one, I've given it a pretty good (controlled) tug and it doesn't move at either end and it seems to be soldered, but what do I know!Like this,
Edit... I'll look in tomorrow... don't rip that foil
I will take some good pics tonight and post and wait for your input tomorrow.
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You are still not pulling hard enough...
This is what the sockets look like, and the cable.
Your Search Results | CPC
Look at all the pickups and mechs here, everyone is connected via a foil or cable.
Your Search Results | CPC
This is what the sockets look like, and the cable.
Your Search Results | CPC
Look at all the pickups and mechs here, everyone is connected via a foil or cable.
Your Search Results | CPC
Attachments
I had the same experience with RCD971 of my friend, and the problem is very, very easy to solve.
Inside the CD meachanism, there is a motor and rubber, which by simple mechanism push up part the CD tray after closing and then activate the switch. In some production run, the rubber has no enough friction and the mechanism cannot be pushed to fis the tray, and activate the switch
Either you have to change the rubber, or you should "make" a better friction between the rubber and the the motor lead/axis. Precise sanding works best
The rubber is a bit tricky to remove and mount (but it is accessible), but using a good grasp will help very much.
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Well I have the tray off the lens assembly without removing the ribbon. Still can't get at either the two leaf switches (although I managed to destroy one of them in trying to get it off - no sweat I have two new ones) and the belt is impossible to gt at unless I can figure out how to remove the tray. I will post pics tomorrow, right now I have to put the little guy to bed, Thanks to all who are helping!
Still here
Did you try unsoldering the motor etc and lifting the PCB clear off the mech ?
Hi Mooly,
No i haven't yet. I was hoping there was a way to avoid that as I've never soldered before. I guess I will have to learn now.....
It just seems strange to me that that is theo nly way to replace a belt, seems a bit awkward, no?
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