Building a symmetrical PSU B1 buffer

That's the only thing I am afraid about, the switch contacts. My last rotary switch I bought from ebay fails from time to time. In some positions, you only have sound in one channel, you have to move it a bit to have a good engadgement.
But is not really a concern, it happens only once for every 20 or 30 times I move the switch. And for the price, you can't beat it. An stereo 23 steps switch for 10$, shipping included. I have mine mounted with Dale's and sound wonderful.

dantwomey, I really like your approach. But as you don't need the pots to be good ones, you can use some cheapers. I may do something as you if I is possible to find cheaper motor controlled pots.
 
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dantwomey, I really like your approach. But as you don't need the pots to be good ones, you can use some cheapers. I may do something as you if I is possible to find cheaper motor controlled pots.

Yes, so far giving our buffer some sort of remote control is just an idea. When the time comes to do it I'll post here for the most cost effective way to achieve that goal.

Regards,
Dan :D
 
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The positive Vref is running more current normally. Not enough to see a marked brightness difference, but I would expect it on the plus Vref Leds if obvious with some Leds.

P.S. Happy listening, and post us pics and experiences, like when going holidays.:)
 
Thanks Salas, it's positive rail. You can see on the pic.

Sound is really great. I'll add some P3 coolers next to run at higher current.
At the moment it has it's place and I'm sure I would miss the bug much
if it runs away ;)

Here two pics, with LSQR2 from analog-forum.
 

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I own two pairs of these speakers, but got them for a good price.

One pair is modified.

I used them with a SAC epsilon / 2 x NAD 218 bridged.

But thsi system was only loud. The SAC is very good. The NAD are on sale next.

The SE EL509 has much more bass (maybe a little too much) than F5
but without loosing the detailed highs of a tube.

Only cause of my cats I using F5 more at the moment.
 
Thanks Salas, it's positive rail. You can see on the pic.

Sound is really great. I'll add some P3 coolers next to run at higher current.
At the moment it has it's place and I'm sure I would miss the bug much
if it runs away ;)

Here two pics, with LSQR2 from analog-forum.
You have a nice integrated built up there. As I can see, is that a remotely controlled relays switcher? Seems to sound really clean. Just try the bypass film cap mod and changing the resistor to up the CCS :cool: don't forget to make it at least 5W if you do that.