(Strategically places Mod-be-Gone™ pellet at top left corner of keyboard for added protection)Wait till I get my hands on you ya good for nuttin' dirty little #$%^&*@! I'll show you heavy handed.
Surely JB has a product that will overcome the issues, and potentially provide significant improvements? Some previously classified material, in a proprietary casing, manufactured using a special technique in an undisclosed location (rumour has it the back seat of a speeding bentley...)? ;-)
Hi John
I for one, would love to know.
Thanks - Godfrey
Yes, but SAAB isn't / wasn't British, German, French or American.
As long as you're arguing with him anyway, would you mind asking about the SAAB?
I for one, would love to know.
Thanks - Godfrey
On a quick review of the original 2002 article, once you are into good dielectrics the numbers are .0000something. I see no trail of evidence that points to low order distortions at this level being audible. How does this rationalize with SET vs class A solid state? Not to mention the reminder of how Bateman lifted my oscillator without attribution.
I was relying on the "virtually all cars" claim. The nationalism later described was merely to provide emphasis I thought, not as an exclusion.
Given SAAB is just GM under a different badge, would it not qualify even if the nationalities were exclusions? I mean, is a Chevrolet built in Canada a Canadian car, or American?
John?
Given SAAB is just GM under a different badge, would it not qualify even if the nationalities were exclusions? I mean, is a Chevrolet built in Canada a Canadian car, or American?
John?
Back to the 924 question, I've oft wondered the same. We have Canadian made Toyotas. Where do you draw the line?
Both my cars were made in their native country. However, I do feel sorry for the little town of Trollhatten (sp) I went there to pick up my SAAB back it '68. Seemed like a one company town. My SAAB engine was made in Germany and was designed in Detroit. Go figure. SAAB, after making a successful 2 stroke for many years, apparently tended to buy engines outside their country. Probably an executive decision. Still, the SAABs of my day were rugged, if eccentric, autos.
Well, you could "accidentally" leave off the "e" in his name just to get even
I prefer Master Bateman.
Yep - I had a friend with a Sonnet (I think...) that had the Ford V4 engine.
The two-stroke engines were modelled on the Auto-Union /DKW items if I remember rightly (may not...). Another friend had a two-stroke Deek with the VERY odd semi auto transmission - more a centrifugal clutch than anything.
Of course, he had an early Kawazaki 350 (three cylinder two stroke) so was given to oddities!
I used to ride the Suzuki 550 3 banger, 2 stoke. Fast bike for the time. It could take the Honda 750s off the line every time. But they always caught up. Strange sounding bike with the 3 cylinder 2 stroke. Like a nest of angry hornets.
Long time ago, that was. I think Nixon or Ford was President.
Long time ago, that was. I think Nixon or Ford was President.
Time for more LR pics.
Gearbox in. For flywheel and clutch pressure plate mounting bolts green Loctite is your friend; throw those locking tabs into the bin.
Got the prop shafts done this afternoon. Didn't need to do much as the universal joints are still in fine condition, just needed to clean them up and paint. Will need to add a pair of new rubber boots and end cap seals for the slip joints to my shopping list though.
Shown in the 3part pic is the power tool required to do 90% of the Landrover restoration - an angle grinder with a twist knot wire brush. I've done everything with this, chassis, bulkhead, etc, etc. Worn dozens of the twist knot wire brushes to the hilt, brushing way the dirt and polishing the rusty metal up ready for paint preperation.
The last pic is a current 'before & after'. It's getting close now. I'm looking forward to bolting a wooden plank down to the chassis, supporting a plastic crate for a seat and driving the rolling and motorised chassis around the block.
Haven't rebuilt the main braking system yet, but I'll just keep it at a walking pace in 1st and shouldn't have any problems bringing it to a halt with the trans (hand) brake.
Gearbox in. For flywheel and clutch pressure plate mounting bolts green Loctite is your friend; throw those locking tabs into the bin.
Got the prop shafts done this afternoon. Didn't need to do much as the universal joints are still in fine condition, just needed to clean them up and paint. Will need to add a pair of new rubber boots and end cap seals for the slip joints to my shopping list though.
Shown in the 3part pic is the power tool required to do 90% of the Landrover restoration - an angle grinder with a twist knot wire brush. I've done everything with this, chassis, bulkhead, etc, etc. Worn dozens of the twist knot wire brushes to the hilt, brushing way the dirt and polishing the rusty metal up ready for paint preperation.
The last pic is a current 'before & after'. It's getting close now. I'm looking forward to bolting a wooden plank down to the chassis, supporting a plastic crate for a seat and driving the rolling and motorised chassis around the block.
Haven't rebuilt the main braking system yet, but I'll just keep it at a walking pace in 1st and shouldn't have any problems bringing it to a halt with the trans (hand) brake.
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