I'm going by the rumor hard maple, which I believe is called "Apple" is stiffer.
Is there any plywood that would be stiffer than Maple 3/4?
I've been looking at the base and wondering if it is wide enough to be stable on three spikes? Is 3/4 plywood strong enough for a single spike thru it in the front? Two spikes in the rear under the pile of pyramids, I'm guessing, will be plenty of support.
If hard maple is a domestic product, I can hope that its price won't be effected by lower demand for US dollars, ie having to pay more $$$ for imported products.
Best from Tucson AZ
Bob
Is there any plywood that would be stiffer than Maple 3/4?
I've been looking at the base and wondering if it is wide enough to be stable on three spikes? Is 3/4 plywood strong enough for a single spike thru it in the front? Two spikes in the rear under the pile of pyramids, I'm guessing, will be plenty of support.
If hard maple is a domestic product, I can hope that its price won't be effected by lower demand for US dollars, ie having to pay more $$$ for imported products.
Best from Tucson AZ
Bob
CRIPS are Blue, Bloods are Red.
It would be more FUN if members of CONgress dressed up as Kabuki characters when they are in CONgress or during an interview.
Maybe they should play electrical parts?
"And now, playing the part of a 1/4 wat resistor in a 2 watt circuit, House Majority leader......."
"Playing the part of a blown woofer, ex Senate Majority Leader Fig Newton".
Bob
It would be more FUN if members of CONgress dressed up as Kabuki characters when they are in CONgress or during an interview.
Maybe they should play electrical parts?
"And now, playing the part of a 1/4 wat resistor in a 2 watt circuit, House Majority leader......."
"Playing the part of a blown woofer, ex Senate Majority Leader Fig Newton".
Bob
Chris, as a professional woodworm explained to me, the polydirectional stiffness is achieved by the fibre direction being at 90° from layer to layer. The glue was not what he would guess about, but it might affect the internal damping by either hardening or staying pliable and soaking energy.
Hiro build
Well, I was planning on building the Sachico but I found a helluva deal on some Fostex 167E drivers at eBay. I picked up a pair that had only been mounted for testing, essentially brand new, for $80 for the pair.
I guess I am going to build the Hiro which, as I understand it, is the same as the Sachico but only about 9.5" wide.
I was wondering if anybody has tried this design for the 6.5" Fostex drivers (specifically the 167E) and what their results were like.
Thanks,
Jeff
Well, I was planning on building the Sachico but I found a helluva deal on some Fostex 167E drivers at eBay. I picked up a pair that had only been mounted for testing, essentially brand new, for $80 for the pair.
I guess I am going to build the Hiro which, as I understand it, is the same as the Sachico but only about 9.5" wide.
I was wondering if anybody has tried this design for the 6.5" Fostex drivers (specifically the 167E) and what their results were like.
Thanks,
Jeff
i never liked the oak plywood they have. strike a board and listen to the sound compared to the birch plywood there.
where about are you located? the maple plywood home depot has begun to carry looks good. not as many plys as my baltic birch or their 4x8 birch ply but looks practically void free and very nice. it's the more expensive then any of the other types of plywood from either lowes or hd.
iirc, the 167e isn't for the Hiro, a 166e is what you want. you may want to look at the bvr's for your 167e.
The most overpriced midrange ScanSpeak ever had...after enough hours you had to redo the Xover because it suddenly became a fullranger...one of the nicest 4" I ever laid hands on. They hid it as CarFi because it would have spoiled HiFi sales. M45500.
A big waste of materials, and not the most effective way to orient the plywood. The braces aren't as effective because they are bracing the plys in that layer and not so much the other slices -- they are also running the wrong way.
The only real strength is the ease with which you can make odd shapes. And because of the striking visuals, a current fad. If you want a curved cabinet, the way B&W does it is far superior.
dave
The plans at Frugal-horn.com list the 167E as a driver for the Hiro. So what gives??? Why won't it work? Have you tried the 167E in the Hiro or is this a theoretical observation you are making about the 167E? Can you tell me specifically why the Hiro won't work?
Is it b/c of the volume of the shielding on the back of the unit or that the T/S parameters are slightly changed? I could easily account for the volume issue.
Listed as acceptable drivers: FE166e 167e 166eSR 168eS.....
Please give me more reasons not to try this than just b/c you say so.
Jeff
Is it b/c of the volume of the shielding on the back of the unit or that the T/S parameters are slightly changed? I could easily account for the volume issue.
Listed as acceptable drivers: FE166e 167e 166eSR 168eS.....
Please give me more reasons not to try this than just b/c you say so.
Jeff
For what it's worth, I built a set of Sachikos last spring using Fe207's, and they are still the best project I've ever completed. The quality of sound even convinced my wife to let me keep them in the livingroom!
Ordered the Planet10 phaseplugs, and they rid me of any beefs might have I had with the cabinets. I don't think these things are going anywhere (phew!).
I'll post a pic some time.
Ordered the Planet10 phaseplugs, and they rid me of any beefs might have I had with the cabinets. I don't think these things are going anywhere (phew!).
I'll post a pic some time.
What to do with the 167E
OK,
I am still convinced that if I am going to take the time to build these darn things (the Hiro or Sachico) that I might as well build the larger one which appears to have well documented results (as opposed to the Hiro). They are basically exactly the same amount of work.
I'll have to admit I was impulsive when I bought the 167E drivers. I just couldn't pass up a brand new pair for less than half the price of new.
So, now what should I build with the 167E's? Any recommendations for a good enclosure/design.
I am in the process of sourcing parts for a DHT 2A3 amp that will have about 3-4 watts output. I want something that will work well with this amp.
The Metronomes look like they work well but to be honest I think they are as ugly as anything I have seen. The wife will not approve (not sure how's shes gonna feel about a pair of 6' speakers either, but we're not there yet)
I may start another thread elsewhere for this question but I'll see what I can find here too.
Thanks,
Jeff
OK,
I am still convinced that if I am going to take the time to build these darn things (the Hiro or Sachico) that I might as well build the larger one which appears to have well documented results (as opposed to the Hiro). They are basically exactly the same amount of work.
I'll have to admit I was impulsive when I bought the 167E drivers. I just couldn't pass up a brand new pair for less than half the price of new.
So, now what should I build with the 167E's? Any recommendations for a good enclosure/design.
I am in the process of sourcing parts for a DHT 2A3 amp that will have about 3-4 watts output. I want something that will work well with this amp.
The Metronomes look like they work well but to be honest I think they are as ugly as anything I have seen. The wife will not approve (not sure how's shes gonna feel about a pair of 6' speakers either, but we're not there yet)
I may start another thread elsewhere for this question but I'll see what I can find here too.
Thanks,
Jeff
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