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Twisted Pear Audio - Buffalo32S (ES9018 DAC)

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HDMI was invented for two purposes: one to simplify cabling and two to ensure high resolution signals are securely delivered to the rendering device (i.e., the digital signal not captured through other means). This means that whoever is implementing HDMI in the sending and receiving end must sign a license and among other things the license legally enforces you to ensure that the digital signal is never exposed until rendered to analog.

But if you can tap into the DSD signals in the clear, you can feed them to Buffalo... Some have done that with some Denon players
 
On the PCM1796 when it is in DSD mode:

Connect DGND from the player PCB to GND at the Buf32S input.
Pin 7 is the bit clock: connect to DCK on the Buf32S.
Pin 5 is Left channel data: connect to D1 on the Buf32S.
Pin 4 is Right channel data : connect to D2 on the Buf32S.

This will only work correctly while the player is in DSD mode.

If you want to switch between DSD and PCM you will need something like an OTTO.

Cheers!
Russ
 
Russ White said:
When the player is playing an SACD it is in DSD mode. :)



:)
Thanks.


Russ White said:
You could use a simple manual toggle switch to switch between PCM and DSD input on the DAC. No reconfiguration of the DAC itself is required.


1. The Buffalo DAC will decode either SACD DSD stream from the player, or the output of the MUX/receiver, which is I2C PCM (or so I believe). So, it seems to me that what I'll need is OTTO switch and no other switching at the DAC, while I may need to reboot the DAC after switching input stream. Is that right?
2. Is there any benefit in using shielded cable for the SACD DSD stream?
 
I received my buffalo32s a few days ago, impressive packaging, impressive finishing !!. It is singing beautifully in my system already.

I have a very simple question though: how do I "short" L1 and L2 on the back of the PCB??? (I must be holly lost in translation, but cannot figure out what is the right thing to do here...and I read the whole forum!!)

Any help would be much appreciate it. A picture is attached just to illustrate how dumb a newbie can be... The only way I could figure out to "short" L1 and L2 is the one you see in the picture, by joining together the two outer grounds of the board... is that correct at all ?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
Pepe
 
I have a very simple question though: how do I "short" L1 and L2 on the back of the PCB???

Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
Pepe

Hi Pepe,

On the latest boards L1 and L2 are already shorted with a jumper (0R Resistor). No need to jumper.

That wire there won't really hurt anything, but it won't help either. :)

There should be a new version of the manual up very soon. Sorry for the confusion.

Cheers!
Russ
 
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
I might be wrong but it looks to me that you have the new board and that the jumpers are already in there. They are the short connections between the two external (analog) and the central (digital) ground planes. What you have done is to join the two analog ground planes, which will hardly do any good (or bad) as these are already both joined to the digital ground.
Nic

Sorry for this but it is hard to beat Russ speed in helping out!!!!!!!
 
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