nice sketchup - - does the driver mount on the front face? what's your cabinet plan look like and about how much plywood would it take per cab? I'd figure the little karlson 12 goes to maybe 70 with BetsyK half-space and fried her before getting very far into listening - loud and cone didn't move but too much heating Seems to me Qts would raise as the coil moves out of its linear range plus modulation effects get worse when the cone is traveling
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They are very different drivers it probably wouldn't look good at all but I could just as easily design one for the Fostex as well. I have about an hour and a half into that design so I could very easily do a similar one for the Fostex. Just let me know what your priorities are i.e. size vs. frequency extension vs. efficiency, or simplicity vs. appearence, etc. Do you prefer an ornate round design or a square simple design.
Huh! Weird I messed around with the FE206En and came up with a design so close to this one it was uncanny. The really surprising thing is how small the performance difference is between the two drivers. Makes me wonder if the Fostex is worth the money. The optimum design was different and I haven't drawn it up yet(I'll probably do it tomorrow) but it actually would do quite well in the enclosure as is. The graph on the left is the horn optimized for the Fostex and the one on the right is the Fostex in the Betsy K horn. Of Course the one for the Fostex is actually smaller so it would make more sense to build that one if you want the Fostex speakers.
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I didn't run BetsyK much but my impression was FE206EN was hotter on top - - your Fostex horn looks good in hornresp - what would be its external bulk?
here's the old 206E in BK20 sim - I like 12" Karlson with 8" drivers better than my BK20 as to me there's a spatial and maybe "time" discontinuity between the horn mouth output and the cone
here's the old 206E in BK20 sim - I like 12" Karlson with 8" drivers better than my BK20 as to me there's a spatial and maybe "time" discontinuity between the horn mouth output and the cone
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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It gets a sharp massive peak (8db) at 60Hz
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Zob's most recent experiment, double chambered reflex cabinet.
Has three impedance peaks, plots almost same like K12... Not
that it actually sounds the same like K12, just the impedance...
Anyways, I hate this tang band's whizzer. Its that intermediate
"lowther" size whiz that irritates. Shrill and syballant. No such
problems heard with Betsy(smaller) or Beta12LTA(larger) whiz.
Betsy was tried open baffle (sorta), with one cabinet side off.
And also tried with this box properly closed. Qts raised from
0.8 to 1.4, yet this peak did not seem too noticeable in music.
Open baffle was the preferred sound of the day, but this box
wasn't bad.
Has three impedance peaks, plots almost same like K12... Not
that it actually sounds the same like K12, just the impedance...
Anyways, I hate this tang band's whizzer. Its that intermediate
"lowther" size whiz that irritates. Shrill and syballant. No such
problems heard with Betsy(smaller) or Beta12LTA(larger) whiz.
Betsy was tried open baffle (sorta), with one cabinet side off.
And also tried with this box properly closed. Qts raised from
0.8 to 1.4, yet this peak did not seem too noticeable in music.
Open baffle was the preferred sound of the day, but this box
wasn't bad.
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do you like the DBR better than K12? BetsyK might become my late night speakers if the cabinet footprint is small - how might one progress with a new K-coupler for some 8" and how would you vent it? (that forum needs some input) - - my brief impression of 1772 Tang as a direct radiator was kinda mellow/bland/"hifi" and its a bit that way in K12 - - the amp, dac, etc, probably play a role. Good ol' DBR - might be good option for BetsyK - how does one logically extend DBR to a triple reflex? (for cases where the box is large enough to do something) re:12LTA, in K12 with slits sealed and good amount of polyfill I got Qts~0.83, fc~73Hz - sound abit better with one slit open than tightly sealed - there ought to be some cheap tweeter to put in front of 12LTA on a bracket. - btw - might be interesting to put a coupler in front of a DBR
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Here is a link to the TQWT thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/wild-burro-audio/167136-betsyk-simple-tl.html
And here are the specs ScottMoose sent me for a double mouth BVR:
Chamber internal HxWxD = 37in x 10.5in x 12.25in. Driver mounted centrally; suggest a couple of window braces at least. Back, one side & either the top or base of the chamber (making sure you don't block the throat) lined with 1in acoustic fiberglass or similar. Throats are 1in deep & 0.75in long. Each horn is 14.5in tall at the mouth; an angled strike-plate runs from the front of the box to 1.5in down / up (depending on which horn we're talking about) from the throats.
Notice too that now is a good time to buy with the sale priced BetsyKs!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
And here are the specs ScottMoose sent me for a double mouth BVR:
Chamber internal HxWxD = 37in x 10.5in x 12.25in. Driver mounted centrally; suggest a couple of window braces at least. Back, one side & either the top or base of the chamber (making sure you don't block the throat) lined with 1in acoustic fiberglass or similar. Throats are 1in deep & 0.75in long. Each horn is 14.5in tall at the mouth; an angled strike-plate runs from the front of the box to 1.5in down / up (depending on which horn we're talking about) from the throats.
Notice too that now is a good time to buy with the sale priced BetsyKs!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
I'm about to begin a journey in building the TL, (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/wild-burro-audio/167136-betsyk-simple-tl.html#post2192433). I am very excited.
Before I get too committed, I have a noob question about the BIB. The one on the Wild Burro site is 6'6"x20"x25". That's a 13' line. Is it reasonable to fold the line into 3 or 4 sections, creating boxes that are approximately 52" or 39" tall. respectively? Are there serious disadvantages? I understand they'd be deep boxes but space in my hut is limited.
Thanks to you all in advance - M
Before I get too committed, I have a noob question about the BIB. The one on the Wild Burro site is 6'6"x20"x25". That's a 13' line. Is it reasonable to fold the line into 3 or 4 sections, creating boxes that are approximately 52" or 39" tall. respectively? Are there serious disadvantages? I understand they'd be deep boxes but space in my hut is limited.
Thanks to you all in advance - M
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You need to keep two things in mind. First, the driver has to remain at the correct position in the line and be at a good height for listening. Second, the BIBs really like their ceiling loading. I wonder if you could get it about right if you fold into four sections, the beginning of the line at the bottom front, then the final section firing either into the floor or out the back. It'd be a chunky thing! One of the nice things about the standard bib is that for all their volume, between the height and corner loading, they generally don't take up a giant bunch of floor. Compared to say, open baffles!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
I've decided on building the regular BIB for my Betsy-k pair. Your BIB is 78"x20"x25". Using the excel sheet from www.zillaaudio.com, I get 67.5"x21.5"x29.8". This is a big difference. Is this because the BIB design allows for a lot of flexibility? I'd really to make them 24" deep since that's exactly half the width of a 4'x8' sheet of plywood. Are BIB's all that sensitive to exact dimensions?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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