Thanks Owen!
Hi Owen,
Thanks for the speedy and assuring reply—the board image helps a lot also. (It used to be so easy to look at aboard and see pretty much everything.) I'm going to need to study the board image to understand the V+ caps, this is still a bit of a mystery to me.
And thanks again for the wire series; it has brought me many hours of listening pleasure!
Hi Owen,
Thanks for the speedy and assuring reply—the board image helps a lot also. (It used to be so easy to look at aboard and see pretty much everything.) I'm going to need to study the board image to understand the V+ caps, this is still a bit of a mystery to me.
And thanks again for the wire series; it has brought me many hours of listening pleasure!
Hi Aive,
It has been a while! I don't mind at all
How have they been working for you? I'm finally back to using my pair as the main amplifiers with my line arrays after finally getting a pair of subwoofers to integrate properly.
Regards,
Owen
I’ve been using the MPUHP the entire time, still my only speaker amp
Still sound stellar to me - I still haven’t cased it though ><I also got an active sub to support my LS50s
the upgrade itch never ends.
OPA1632 is fully diffrential dual opamp. It is special type and can't directly subtitute most of opamps.
LME49990 can probably be replaced by OPA1611, AD797, OPA828 or any other high performance single opamp. This isn't that straightforward and will probably need lots of testing to ensure stability, performance and compensation.
LME49990 can probably be replaced by OPA1611, AD797, OPA828 or any other high performance single opamp. This isn't that straightforward and will probably need lots of testing to ensure stability, performance and compensation.
Thanks for your response
With 'The Wire' phono stage, a new PCB would be needed, but could the 1632 replace the pair of op-amps, and join the two inputs, and feedback after the 1k's, together with the 100 Ohms?
3 Stage Balanced Phono Preamp.pdf - Google Drive
I recall OPC saying that before the 49990 his favourite op-amp was the AD797, as it was mine, in general. But that was many years ago. I'll have a look at the OPA1611 and OPA828.
With 'The Wire' phono stage, a new PCB would be needed, but could the 1632 replace the pair of op-amps, and join the two inputs, and feedback after the 1k's, together with the 100 Ohms?
3 Stage Balanced Phono Preamp.pdf - Google Drive
I recall OPC saying that before the 49990 his favourite op-amp was the AD797, as it was mine, in general. But that was many years ago. I'll have a look at the OPA1611 and OPA828.
Last edited:
Hey guys,
I want to diy a headphone amp for driving high power planar headphones, like the Audeze LCD2, 3, 4 or the Monoprice M1060C.
These headphones have a much higher power rating than usual headphones (some of them go even up to 10-15w), and I would like to be able to drive them to the max SPL with absolute minimum of distortion.
As far as I can see, the LPUHP is a great reference amp that seems to be able to deliver more than enough current and voltage.
But the big difference here is that I would like to drive a 15 to 300ohm headphone instead of a 4 or 8 ohm speaker.
So I have a few questions:
As far as my experience with car audio goes, higher impedance means the amp will deliver less power.
Is it possible to guess how the LPUHP will perform with 300ohm speakers?
The description says the bom is for one channel.
Do I need to build 2 pieces of the amp to be able to use stereo?
Thank you so much!
I want to diy a headphone amp for driving high power planar headphones, like the Audeze LCD2, 3, 4 or the Monoprice M1060C.
These headphones have a much higher power rating than usual headphones (some of them go even up to 10-15w), and I would like to be able to drive them to the max SPL with absolute minimum of distortion.
As far as I can see, the LPUHP is a great reference amp that seems to be able to deliver more than enough current and voltage.
But the big difference here is that I would like to drive a 15 to 300ohm headphone instead of a 4 or 8 ohm speaker.
So I have a few questions:
As far as my experience with car audio goes, higher impedance means the amp will deliver less power.
Is it possible to guess how the LPUHP will perform with 300ohm speakers?
The description says the bom is for one channel.
Do I need to build 2 pieces of the amp to be able to use stereo?
Thank you so much!
I've been looking through older posts re: the NTD1. I acquired a v4 board and parts except for the exact riedon resistors. I have a set of 200r riedons but the 180/r390r are hard to get.
I saw OPC's below post to Sabrosa regarding lower values for a lower output version. 50r and 100r reidons are easy to get. If I were to use 200r and 100r sets, would current draw through each leg be approx. 150ma and vrms of differenial output be approx. 1v?
What voltage rails would this setup require? 28v?
"The Wire" Official Boards for All Projects Available Here! BAL-BAL, SE-SE, LPUHP
I saw OPC's below post to Sabrosa regarding lower values for a lower output version. 50r and 100r reidons are easy to get. If I were to use 200r and 100r sets, would current draw through each leg be approx. 150ma and vrms of differenial output be approx. 1v?
What voltage rails would this setup require? 28v?
"The Wire" Official Boards for All Projects Available Here! BAL-BAL, SE-SE, LPUHP
Continuing to think out loud here... it seems the BAL-BAL boards are hard to come by. If I did ended going with the 50/100 resistors something like the below might serve the same purpose as the BAL-BAL. It appears to use the same LME49724 for part of the circuit.
I'm not sure how much gain you could get out of it but it might be an available option (OPC i'll take the link down if you'd like as it links to another vendor).
Universal Buffer – Neurochrome
I'm not sure how much gain you could get out of it but it might be an available option (OPC i'll take the link down if you'd like as it links to another vendor).
Universal Buffer – Neurochrome
I had already asked this question in another - probably wrong - thread without answer. Can anyone tell me if I could adapt the NTD1 V3 I/V stage to my conditions? But it should remain a good solution. If so, how...(link?)?
- Output impedance must be less than 100 ohms
- Output voltage much higher: RMS about 10 volts (~ 30Vpp(+15V/-15V))
- Using 4 AD1862 (not PCM63)
- Output impedance must be less than 100 ohms
- Output voltage much higher: RMS about 10 volts (~ 30Vpp(+15V/-15V))
- Using 4 AD1862 (not PCM63)
I have a pair assembled for unbalanced input.
I also bought a pair of "hospital grade transformers" and I have trouble finding the time to assemble these into an enclosure.
So I might sell them.
Does anyone have the complete BOM and schematic for these?
I ask because I need to limit bandwidth a bit maybe. Sometimes I get about 2V 4MHz on the output.
I also bought a pair of "hospital grade transformers" and I have trouble finding the time to assemble these into an enclosure.
So I might sell them.
Does anyone have the complete BOM and schematic for these?
I ask because I need to limit bandwidth a bit maybe. Sometimes I get about 2V 4MHz on the output.