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USB to I2S 384Khz - DSD Converter

Hi, as said before, first try without, if you have noise then you need the isolation circuit. I tried to first cut a usb cable and feed in the 5v from the DAC output, but it didn't work, I was worried I might cause a problem on the amanero board an decided to play it safe using the recommended circuit. I ended up milling the boards since its very difficult to otherwise connect the isolator.

The buffalo is actually very easy to assemble, the way they send the kits out is great, all components nicely labelled, it's very quick to build.
 
i'll second the recommendation for that 9023 kit, or Ackos 9023 kit. I would not recommend either Acko's AKD12 or AKD18, or BIII

it was already discussed by Amanero that you couldnt cut the USB cable, no point pursuing that.

jrobson, i'm sorry i'm going to disagree, as a dac just a simple dac with power supply, sure the BII and to a lesser extent BIII are simple to hook up (i've owned 2 x BII, the buff32 before, before moving towards the ackodacs, so i'm familiar), but the sprawling pile of ever increasing modules that is the BIII system is NOT a beginner build, or a cheap build. (some of that applies to ackodac too) Unfortunately the way the kits are sent out fosters a lack of thinking, so many people end up putting their system, which IS a complex system; together without knowing anything much about the circuit. then when they start to add non standard IVs, different power supplies, i2s reclockers etc they end up with a huge collection of devices and no real idea how it works still, so when something goes wrong, they dont know where to start and the forum ends up wearing the brunt of this support.

do remember, you milled your own PCB, bcbob still didnt know what it was for after 2-3 pages of conversation..... with me?

no offense bob, really, its clear you arent silly, to the point you are considering your own current limitations. not everyone does that.

can I just show you something. this is a dual mono BIII, with arduino and SEN IV. aside from a few nonstandard regs, the SEN IV and the batteries, this is pretty stock and doesnt even appear to include much by way of USB, master clocking, MUX etc. I know it doesnt have to be quite this nuts, but the way they all plug together isnt conducive to a neat layout, this guy isnt an inexperienced DIYer either. that cant be good… looks like a bunch of solar flares
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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I thought I was reasonably clear about that and I think Owen understood. but yeah I have one of my own (but ackodac and everything else different too) that size, just not quite that scary. we should leave it though, he was pretty clear its a breadboard build and wouldnt remain like that, it wasnt my intention to ridicule; but all the same …:bigeyes:

my main point being simply how easy it is for things to get totally out of control, even for experienced builders

also opc, I spat my coffee out when you made mention of Castle Greyskull, I grew up with that stuff, havent thought about it for years, but I thought a similar thing when I saw the lego AC mains relay switching. that is whats going on back there isnt it?
 
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It was certainly not my intention to ridicule either, just that you really need to keep a lot of things in mind when wiring something like that up, especially if you do part then come back months later to add/change something else. I was pretty certain that Owen would pick that it wasn't yours but not sure if all of the readers of this thread in the future would.

By way of comparison, I have created 3 or 4 A3 drawings and a stack of reports for control system PLCs with what boils down to a few analogue 4-20mA inputs, and RS485/232 connection or two and a few digital outputs, generally far less complicated than a BIII system. The only difference being that cable lengths are 10s of meters. This is similar to the above in that each 'module' can be treated as a black box in effect, this is the basic principal that the TPA and many other DIY kits are built on, to obfuscate the pedantic details of each system and let you, the DIYer, deal with the interfacing.

For something similar going in an industrial application you would have documentation pack like:
P&I Diagram - showing high level interaction of mechanical and electrical system,
Schematic,
Termination Diagram,
Specification for the control system including the equipment datasheets,
Specification for each equipment type used
 
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Hi All
Just to add my name to the 9023 recommendation.
I have a slightly different implementation (I2S input)but its a great sounding DAC and ideal for a first time builder. It gave me the opportunity to try SMD work which was really useful for future builds.
Fun to build and good sounding.
I do have some opinions on some of the above posts but hey let’s not go toooo OT.
 
Hi Korben

looks pretty much like my build (Will's PK DAC) with dedicated offboard PSU's for XO and DAC rather than the LDO's. my PK is without the Spdif input front end (I2S only) but i'm planing to try her out with this very I2S card. the PK is sadly out of production at the moment:sad:.

9023 DAC sounds REALY good IMHO.:note:

The build that you've posted looks fun:) enough to be tempted:devilr:

any news on the second round GB?
 
Hi shoom
Second run GB has crossed 200 units and will end on the 8th or 12th.
LM723 PSU is used as pre-regulator feeding 4 LDO on DAC board dedicated to each DAC section : Oscillator - Digital - Analog 1 & 2
This is now "Subbu's DAC V3", same as V2.6 with some improvments made by Jean-Paul & Subbu.
They are cooking an affordable solution for BlackGate's caps substitutes ;)
DAC is available in SE or BAL with LM723 PSU, SPDIF or I2S input with special U-FL connectors (I2S).
 
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