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Old 30th June 2020, 03:35 PM   #101
BrianDonegan is offline BrianDonegan  United States
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Designing a practical ES9038 based eight channel DAC
There is no standard for using HDMI cables for transporting I2S. The details you need are on the page you posted for the device (Stephen1212b reposted it).

I think you need an HDMI cable, cut one end off and tap the signals as needed.

The "HMDI" output is outputting differential I2S signals. You can either use the + side of each of these and GND, or feed them to a Teleporter to make them single-ended again.
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Old 30th June 2020, 04:06 PM   #102
stephen1212b is offline stephen1212b  United States
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I recommend using a teleporter (its a Twisted Pear product). Even a foot and a half HDMI cable is a long path for single-ended transmission of the various clock signals. Of course its easy enough to try single ended first. If it works your golden. Either way I would use an HDMI receiving connector so that various HDMI cables could be substituted and future set up changes could be easily accommodated.
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Old 30th June 2020, 11:40 PM   #103
angcl is offline angcl  Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianDonegan View Post
There is no standard for using HDMI cables for transporting I2S. The details you need are on the page you posted for the device (Stephen1212b reposted it).

I think you need an HDMI cable, cut one end off and tap the signals as needed.

The "HMDI" output is outputting differential I2S signals. You can either use the + side of each of these and GND, or feed them to a Teleporter to make them single-ended again.
so I need a Teleporter to make them single-ended.

Last edited by angcl; 30th June 2020 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 2nd July 2020, 05:15 AM   #104
angcl is offline angcl  Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen1212b View Post
I recommend using a teleporter (its a Twisted Pear product). Even a foot and a half HDMI cable is a long path for single-ended transmission of the various clock signals. Of course its easy enough to try single ended first. If it works your golden. Either way I would use an HDMI receiving connector so that various HDMI cables could be substituted and future set up changes could be easily accommodated.
I need 1 pair of Teleporter or just one can do the job ?

thanks
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Old 2nd July 2020, 04:19 PM   #105
stephen1212b is offline stephen1212b  United States
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You will just need one since the transmission has already been handled. They come set to receive so you can leave the dip switches alone. I think you will prefer to have a connector rather than just hard wiring the ends of an HDMI cable. You could add an ethernet connection to the end of the HDMI cable or purchase an HDMI female chassis style and wire that in instead of the supplied female ethernet connector. You will also need to tap 5 volts from somewhere.
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Old 2nd July 2020, 11:27 PM   #106
angcl is offline angcl  Singapore
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Originally Posted by stephen1212b View Post
You will just need one since the transmission has already been handled. They come set to receive so you can leave the dip switches alone. I think you will prefer to have a connector rather than just hard wiring the ends of an HDMI cable. You could add an ethernet connection to the end of the HDMI cable or purchase an HDMI female chassis style and wire that in instead of the supplied female ethernet connector. You will also need to tap 5 volts from somewhere.
how is the connection going to look like ?

D1,D2 and DCK to teleport which points ?
thanks
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Old 3rd July 2020, 03:21 AM   #107
stephen1212b is offline stephen1212b  United States
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see post #97. You can use a female HDMI connector or simply chop off one end of an HDMI cable and hard wire it in. You need the three signals Bit clock, L/R clock and Data that are each being carried by a balanced pair in the HDMI cable. The graphic of the HDMI connector lists the pins used. Each pair has a + and a - polarity also indicated. You can arbitrarily connect each pair to any of the four pair of receiving unbalancing circuits. The connection are arranged for use with an rj45 connector so the pairs correspond to pins (1 and 2), pins (3 and 6), pins (4 and 5)and pins (7 and 8). there are 4 pair and you only need to use any three leaving one unused. You can simply leave one pair unconnected. I would use the holes contained by the J4 silkscreen outline on the teleporter so that you could always add an RJ 45 connector later if desired. The cut corner of the silkscreen indicates pin 1 and it is easy to follow the trace to pin 1 on the RJ45 silkscreen. Each receiving pair has a termination resister. The only tricky part is that the traces for pins 3 and 6 are on the other side of the circuit board. The unbalanced signals will appear as 0,1,2,3 each with a ground connection as well. SE 0 = whatever signal you attached to 1 and 2. SE 1 = the 4 and 5 pair. SE2=the 3 and 6 pair and se3 = the 7 and 8 pair. Preserve the polarity by always connecting the + to the lower number in any pair. Keep track for yourself of which signal bit, word, or data you connect to each pair so you can know which SE output corresponds to each type. Connect bit to DCK, L/R or word to D1, and DATA to D2 on the day. Look for the green LED. Lastly there are two jumper positions labeled J1 and J2.. You can leave them both open to start with.
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Old 3rd July 2020, 05:37 PM   #108
stephen1212b is offline stephen1212b  United States
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Just ran across this a much simpler solution for your needs Ian Canada HDMI receiver. It uses the same pins but treats polarity differently which shouldn't matter.
schemar2.jpg

forget the names used as the signals are determined by the source in your case this.
22e56db4abc8465602bed8e4e84f5d34.jpg
no soldering no wiring other than UFL jumpers
Best to you
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Old 7th July 2020, 02:15 AM   #109
angcl is offline angcl  Singapore
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thanks
 

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